removing/replacing 3.0 oil pan

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tomc3

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I've heard this is a PITA...where can I get the shop instructions on doing this? gotta cracked oil pan.....cedar stump, ftw :(

If I can remove, I can get it welded....I hope.
 
Why would you take a chance on welding the pan? You risk your entire engine. It looks like a lot of work. I'd rather do it right the first time.

Anyway, here's instructions for a gen 1 since I don't know what year your car is.

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Oh my.. It really sucks to have a V6 lol.
 
Holy cats, I think the procedure to replace the clutch in my SHO had fewer steps... Good luck with that one!
 
I'd rather go for a root canal ... seriously!
 
Engine Support bolts, 3.0

Okay, I'm a new forum member (old LLSOC member from years ago). I have searched the net, and the site, and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for so thought I'd try find out asking in this thread instead of starting a new one.

I have a 2002 LSE, 3.0, manual trans car that I am going to change the oil pan gasket on. I've printed out the procedure from this link and have things pretty much under control I think (was under there recently doing my sway bar links and bushings). I bought an engine support off of ebay after looking around the net and calling several rental places with no luck. I thought about supporting the engine from the bottom but it looked like more trouble than it was worth, and saving the money from having the dealer do the repair, I thought the engine support would be worth it. And it would be more roomy underneath the car too.

Now my question, does anyone know the bolt size for the engine lift/support holes on the 2002 3.0 Duratec engine? I thought I would go to Orchard Supply and take a few candidates out to the parking lot and try them out. I tried a 12mm and 14mm (10.9 hardness) coarse thread and neither seemed to want to thread into the hole. I thought I should hit the net and just get the answer instead of using trial and error......... so far no luck. Which brought me to signing up to the forum and after a lot of keyword searching I can't find it here either.

Soooooooooo, does anyone know what size they are?

Thanks in advance, natsoj2
 
Okay, after much frustration, trial and error, I've found the bolt size for the lifting/support holes in the 2002 3.0 6 cylinder Duratec engine. They are M12-1.75 pitch (the pitch was the key of course). I used a 40mm length but I'm sure it could be smaller as I threaded them in a LONG way.
 
natsoj2 said:
Okay, after much frustration, trial and error, I've found the bolt size for the lifting/support holes in the 2002 3.0 6 cylinder Duratec engine. They are M12-1.75 pitch (the pitch was the key of course). I used a 40mm length but I'm sure it could be smaller as I threaded them in a LONG way.
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I was just about to post that bolt size. Good luck with the pan. I just swapped engines by dropping the entire assembly from trans to radiator, looks like my old and replacement engines have this same leaking problem, but the bad news is that the leak is not necessarily from the oil pan, but from an intermediate adapter plate, no idea what it's called. All I know was that the fun factor was not present on this job and I refused to attempt that re-gasketing. I have a feeling that it could be some kind of girdle for the main bearings. No way Jose. I didn't even think I wanted to change the oil pan gasket, even though the engine was completely stripped of all wiring and accessories. I had to transplant my harness and all driven accessories to the junk yard engine since the junk yard clipped off all harness connections and there was no alternative.
 
buy a new car.
seriously that is too much work for anyone without an engine hoist in the garage.
 
Damn, I had almost a completed reply here and hit a button that moved me back a page and lost it. This one will probably be shorter, lol.

I got the oil pan gasket replaced and after about three weeks of driving......... no leaks. It's awesome not having a leakin' Lincoln. It seems that engines sound better when they stay completely full of oil and not having to worry about parking on your friends driveways is cool. I worked on it for maybe 12 or 14 hours over three days. I think I could do it in 5 or 6 hours now after having done it and learned from a couple mistakes and wasting a lot of time crawling around underneath a car jacked up about 12 or 14 inches. It took a while to actually be able to get the pan out of there. I unbolted the alternator completely but just removed the bottom two bolts of the A/C compressor. This is where my first time wasting mistake came. I didn't see where the front of the pan had the bracket bolted to it. When the pan wouldn't come out I started trying to get the fourth bolt of the compressor off thinking it was holding the pan from coming out. I couldn't get to the bolt with anything I tried, tick tick tick tick, time was passing. I finally realized the bracket was there and took a bolt off after many contortions getting my hands to it (it can be accessed from the top with the right amount of extensions which is how I re-installed it). Pan still wouldn't drop down. Back to the compressor bolt and more wasted time. After some time I realized there was another bolt to the bracket at the front of the pan about 2 inches farther to the driver side. They really wanted that bracket to stay there! After getting it removed the pan dropped without needing the two upper compressor bolts being removed.

Before finishing I was concerned that although my oil pan was leaking, that the real culprit might be my rear main as there was a lot of oil dripping down from that area even as I was doing the oil pan. As it turns out, it was just the pan gasket. My car is a manual transmission and being under there for that amount of time, I would gladly remove the transmission and fix the rear main before I would want to do the oil pan again. I'm sure it would be much simpler.
 
too much work.
any recommendations on products to put on the outside of a leak to slow it and prevent having to write the big check?
and has anyone else had the drain plug fail to seal?
 
Just an update on my oil pan gasket replacement. Almost 2 months later and not a single drop of oil has fallen. It is worth all the work unless you like spending your money more than I do. Like I said in post #14, if you follow the procedure posted earlier and learn from my mistakes (bracket with 2 bolts at front of oil pan and only taking off the 2 bottom bolts of the AC compressor) and have adequate access underneath, it should only take 5 or 6 hours I would think. Oh, my car is an 02 LSE with a manual trans if that matters. Good luck.
 
Bump^^^. Definitely PITA. QUESTION.... I'm using the felpro oil pan gasket part number os 30697r (the kind that is metal with the blue silicone gasket built into it). Do I need to use any RTV or adhesive or just completely dry and clean? About you have to crawl back under. Thanks in advance.

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PizallWízall said:
Bump^^^. Definitely PITA. QUESTION.... I'm using the felpro oil pan gasket part number os 30697r (the kind that is metal with the blue silicone gasket built into it). Do I need to use any RTV or adhesive or just completely dry and clean? About you have to crawl back under. Thanks in advance.

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Hopefully someone will give another answer, but, I don't believe I used any RTV when changing mine. I would probably go with what Fel-Pro suggests. Good Luck!
 
Yep, fel pro video FTW. No leaks thus far. I have another leak and im not sure what part its called. Its close to the Passenger firewall, the back of the àir intake) plenum There are two black plastic round things about 3' in diameter. Any takers??
 
PizallWízall said:
Yep, fel pro video FTW. No leaks thus far. I have another leak and im not sure what part its called. Its close to the Passenger firewall, the back of the àir intake) plenum There are two black plastic round things about 3' in diameter. Any takers??
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The intake manifold runner control valves (imrc). They have o-rings that are known to leak after a while.
 
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