removing/replacing 3.0 oil pan

Lincoln LS

  1. tomc3

    tomc3 LVC Member

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    I've heard this is a PITA...where can I get the shop instructions on doing this? gotta cracked oil pan.....cedar stump, ftw :(

    If I can remove, I can get it welded....I hope.
     
  2. nelliott500

    nelliott500 Well-Known LVC Member

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    Why would you take a chance on welding the pan? You risk your entire engine. It looks like a lot of work. I'd rather do it right the first time.

    Anyway, here's instructions for a gen 1 since I don't know what year your car is.

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  3. M4rk

    M4rk Dedicated LVC Member

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    Oh my.. It really sucks to have a V6 lol.
     
  4. LS4me

    LS4me Dedicated LVC Member

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    Looks like a "write the check" moment!
     
  5. SoonerLS

    SoonerLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    Holy cats, I think the procedure to replace the clutch in my SHO had fewer steps... Good luck with that one!
     
  6. tomc3

    tomc3 LVC Member

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    it's a 2003

    help needed....is there any diff betw gen1 / gen 2? wrt oil pan
     
  7. oddball

    oddball Dedicated LVC Member

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  8. nelliott500

    nelliott500 Well-Known LVC Member

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    Looks to be the same procedure:

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  9. RigsLS

    RigsLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    I'd rather go for a root canal ... seriously!
     
  10. natsoj2

    natsoj2 LVC Member

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    Engine Support bolts, 3.0

    Okay, I'm a new forum member (old LLSOC member from years ago). I have searched the net, and the site, and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for so thought I'd try find out asking in this thread instead of starting a new one.

    I have a 2002 LSE, 3.0, manual trans car that I am going to change the oil pan gasket on. I've printed out the procedure from this link and have things pretty much under control I think (was under there recently doing my sway bar links and bushings). I bought an engine support off of ebay after looking around the net and calling several rental places with no luck. I thought about supporting the engine from the bottom but it looked like more trouble than it was worth, and saving the money from having the dealer do the repair, I thought the engine support would be worth it. And it would be more roomy underneath the car too.

    Now my question, does anyone know the bolt size for the engine lift/support holes on the 2002 3.0 Duratec engine? I thought I would go to Orchard Supply and take a few candidates out to the parking lot and try them out. I tried a 12mm and 14mm (10.9 hardness) coarse thread and neither seemed to want to thread into the hole. I thought I should hit the net and just get the answer instead of using trial and error......... so far no luck. Which brought me to signing up to the forum and after a lot of keyword searching I can't find it here either.

    Soooooooooo, does anyone know what size they are?

    Thanks in advance, natsoj2
     
  11. natsoj2

    natsoj2 LVC Member

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    Okay, after much frustration, trial and error, I've found the bolt size for the lifting/support holes in the 2002 3.0 6 cylinder Duratec engine. They are M12-1.75 pitch (the pitch was the key of course). I used a 40mm length but I'm sure it could be smaller as I threaded them in a LONG way.
     
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    • milehighmikey

      milehighmikey Dedicated LVC Member

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      I was just about to post that bolt size. Good luck with the pan. I just swapped engines by dropping the entire assembly from trans to radiator, looks like my old and replacement engines have this same leaking problem, but the bad news is that the leak is not necessarily from the oil pan, but from an intermediate adapter plate, no idea what it's called. All I know was that the fun factor was not present on this job and I refused to attempt that re-gasketing. I have a feeling that it could be some kind of girdle for the main bearings. No way Jose. I didn't even think I wanted to change the oil pan gasket, even though the engine was completely stripped of all wiring and accessories. I had to transplant my harness and all driven accessories to the junk yard engine since the junk yard clipped off all harness connections and there was no alternative.
       
    • stumpy

      stumpy Active LVC Member

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      buy a new car.
      seriously that is too much work for anyone without an engine hoist in the garage.
       
    • natsoj2

      natsoj2 LVC Member

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      Damn, I had almost a completed reply here and hit a button that moved me back a page and lost it. This one will probably be shorter, lol.

      I got the oil pan gasket replaced and after about three weeks of driving......... no leaks. It's awesome not having a leakin' Lincoln. It seems that engines sound better when they stay completely full of oil and not having to worry about parking on your friends driveways is cool. I worked on it for maybe 12 or 14 hours over three days. I think I could do it in 5 or 6 hours now after having done it and learned from a couple mistakes and wasting a lot of time crawling around underneath a car jacked up about 12 or 14 inches. It took a while to actually be able to get the pan out of there. I unbolted the alternator completely but just removed the bottom two bolts of the A/C compressor. This is where my first time wasting mistake came. I didn't see where the front of the pan had the bracket bolted to it. When the pan wouldn't come out I started trying to get the fourth bolt of the compressor off thinking it was holding the pan from coming out. I couldn't get to the bolt with anything I tried, tick tick tick tick, time was passing. I finally realized the bracket was there and took a bolt off after many contortions getting my hands to it (it can be accessed from the top with the right amount of extensions which is how I re-installed it). Pan still wouldn't drop down. Back to the compressor bolt and more wasted time. After some time I realized there was another bolt to the bracket at the front of the pan about 2 inches farther to the driver side. They really wanted that bracket to stay there! After getting it removed the pan dropped without needing the two upper compressor bolts being removed.

      Before finishing I was concerned that although my oil pan was leaking, that the real culprit might be my rear main as there was a lot of oil dripping down from that area even as I was doing the oil pan. As it turns out, it was just the pan gasket. My car is a manual transmission and being under there for that amount of time, I would gladly remove the transmission and fix the rear main before I would want to do the oil pan again. I'm sure it would be much simpler.
       
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      • jrand

        jrand Banned

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        too much work.
        any recommendations on products to put on the outside of a leak to slow it and prevent having to write the big check?
        and has anyone else had the drain plug fail to seal?
         
      • natsoj2

        natsoj2 LVC Member

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        Just an update on my oil pan gasket replacement. Almost 2 months later and not a single drop of oil has fallen. It is worth all the work unless you like spending your money more than I do. Like I said in post #14, if you follow the procedure posted earlier and learn from my mistakes (bracket with 2 bolts at front of oil pan and only taking off the 2 bottom bolts of the AC compressor) and have adequate access underneath, it should only take 5 or 6 hours I would think. Oh, my car is an 02 LSE with a manual trans if that matters. Good luck.
         
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        • CarguyStve

          CarguyStve LVC Member

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          I just finished one. It was rough, but not too bad I guess...
           

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