The passenger backdoor windows is coming up at a tilted angle and doesn't seat flush at the top, the back part has about a 1/2" gap from fully closing. How do you remove the backdoor panel and what could be causing the window to not fully close, thank you.
removing backdoor panel
- Thread starter phantom3
- Start date
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Might be more here than ya need...but this is my xperience witht eh rear door pannel
I actually just had to fix my rear DS window. after taking off the door pannel. To do so i used a flat pry bar that i wrapped in duct tape (one commonly used when de-nailing wood) The little grove in the tip of it for grabbin nails did a great job at hookin on to the plastic clips and popin them out w/o breaking them (only broke 1 and at 9$ a piece @dealership prices) i said f-it n put it back together minus 1 (almost penis shapped plastic screw).
I wish i had taken some pictures at this point as its a little hard to describe...but there is a thread ill link that does a good job breaking down the front pannel. Although to fix the rear window i did not have to go as far as taking out the brassbolt and removing the whole assembly.
My rear window issues was that the window would not go down when the regulator would drop via button press. yet the window would close properly when the regulator would move up.
For mine(02) the rear window is held onto the regulator via a plastic clip, and unlike the front window(via link) there is only 1 clip that hold it to the regulator. To hold the window to the clip it just kind of sits inside the v shaped plastic clip, at this point i had someone hold my window up while i dropped the regulator down...and to my amazement there was a 1/4" or so hole in my window. Not sure what the part originally held the window in as there was no broken parts or anything stuck inside the door panel. But the plastic has about the same size hole in it on both sides.
The solution. I took a 1.5" bolt with a square shape the the side that the threads are on...wrapped it with electrical tape until it fit the hole very snugly and would not be removed with ease (i ruied my electrical tape wrap job twice figuring out how many times i should wrap it). i then added a few drops of some heavy duty glue called "amazing e6000-permanent bond" its waterproof and nonflammable and flexable when dry. picked it up at menards for something else and figured use it here, and 2 weeks later its still holding for me with only a small ring on the inside of the bolt to hold it to the plastic clip.
I actually just had to fix my rear DS window. after taking off the door pannel. To do so i used a flat pry bar that i wrapped in duct tape (one commonly used when de-nailing wood) The little grove in the tip of it for grabbin nails did a great job at hookin on to the plastic clips and popin them out w/o breaking them (only broke 1 and at 9$ a piece @dealership prices) i said f-it n put it back together minus 1 (almost penis shapped plastic screw).
I wish i had taken some pictures at this point as its a little hard to describe...but there is a thread ill link that does a good job breaking down the front pannel. Although to fix the rear window i did not have to go as far as taking out the brassbolt and removing the whole assembly.
My rear window issues was that the window would not go down when the regulator would drop via button press. yet the window would close properly when the regulator would move up.
For mine(02) the rear window is held onto the regulator via a plastic clip, and unlike the front window(via link) there is only 1 clip that hold it to the regulator. To hold the window to the clip it just kind of sits inside the v shaped plastic clip, at this point i had someone hold my window up while i dropped the regulator down...and to my amazement there was a 1/4" or so hole in my window. Not sure what the part originally held the window in as there was no broken parts or anything stuck inside the door panel. But the plastic has about the same size hole in it on both sides.
The solution. I took a 1.5" bolt with a square shape the the side that the threads are on...wrapped it with electrical tape until it fit the hole very snugly and would not be removed with ease (i ruied my electrical tape wrap job twice figuring out how many times i should wrap it). i then added a few drops of some heavy duty glue called "amazing e6000-permanent bond" its waterproof and nonflammable and flexable when dry. picked it up at menards for something else and figured use it here, and 2 weeks later its still holding for me with only a small ring on the inside of the bolt to hold it to the plastic clip.