remote fob wont roll windows down anymore

tonyd

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One fob works still but the other doesn't. It has new batteries and I'm not sure if it's the actual fob or if i somehow disable this feature from this particular fob.
 
One fob works still but the other doesn't. It has new batteries and I'm not sure if it's the actual fob or if i somehow disable this feature from this particular fob.

There's no way to disable the feature for just one fob. I assume that unlock doesn't work on that fob either.
 
The window roll down is signaled by sending the unlock code for several seconds. So the fob that isn't working probably has some kind of issue with sending the signal continuously. Slightly quirky button, low battery, failing circuitry....
 
Key fob battery either works or it doesn't, low battery doesn't diminish range or diminish features.
 
Just buy a new fob they are cheap enough. $10 all day on eBay.
 
is the fob supposed to roll up the window? I just tried this and it didn't work, wasn't sure if it was supposed to.
 
No up with the fob. I think that is a safety related limitation, thats why you have to do it from the driver's door lock. You can see if there are any obstructions in the window paths. Like your kids neck or something.
 
Yeah, I knew it did that, which is what led me to believe it should do that too.

this would make the most sense, but no, its one of those silly little things that either got forgotten about or omitted on purpose.
 
Unlock works but I guess I'll buy a new fob while I have 2 that still sorta work
 
hence omitted on purpose.


still could have it be a feature and safe. the window motors all ready have another safeguard that reverses the window if it thinks there is something in there.

I'm sick and tired of the world being watered down because people cant accept responsibility for their on stupidity anymore.
 
I'm sick and tired of the world being watered down because people cant accept responsibility for their on stupidity anymore.

Dude.... It's only going to get worse. I think they should eliminate those stupid warning labels on products. If you're stupid enough to try and use a hair dryer in the tub you deserve what happens!
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I have a similar issue and would rather refrain from making another thread at all costs.

I had Ford program two of the $15 ebay fobs in july. Since then both fobs have stopped working. Changed batteries and....nothing. Also, when Ford did the programming the unlock & trunk would work but the the fob wouldn't lock or set the alarm. The service guy said it's probably the security module? I do find it odd that for two new fobs to not lock the car and stop working within 2months.

Another issue is I can lock/arm the car when turning key to the right, but I cannot unlock all the doors or lower windows when turning to the left (it only unlocks the driver door.

It's been bugging me because every time I unlock the car I have to turn the damn ignition to deactivate the alarm. So any advice would be great
 
I've purchased and had programmed several fobs for 2 different cars (ls and envoy) from a place called ekeys4cars. its the programming that costs. $65 (including fob). all work flawlessly.
 
Another issue is I can lock/arm the car when turning key to the right, but I cannot unlock all the doors or lower windows when turning to the left (it only unlocks the driver door.

It's been bugging me because every time I unlock the car I have to turn the damn ignition to deactivate the alarm. So any advice would be great

sounds to me like there is a problem with the unlock detection circuit, since the key will physically unlock the door but the computer is not getting the signal that the key is being turned. this is why your key will not roll down the windows or disarm the factory alarm. it probably either a problem with the key cylinder/switch, the wiring to the DDM or the DDM itself.
 
fyi also make sure your battery is up to snuff. all sorts of erradic stuff can happen with a dying battery. BTW autozone or some such battery test may not reveal the problem. I had to take mine to my mechanic where a real check and stress test was done. They found the battery was crapping out, replaced it and all anomalies stopped.
 
Battery is good. Recently upgraded to a 1800 Kinetic + Big 3 upgrade to help deal with load from the electric fan conversion.

Where does the fob signal go to, to unlock, lock, windows etc? I highly doubt both remotes crapped out right after each other even if they were from ebay. And any idea how to diagnose or is that going to be $100 at the dealer :rolleyes:
 
Battery is good. Recently upgraded to a 1800 Kinetic + Big 3 upgrade to help deal with load from the electric fan conversion.

Where does the fob signal go to, to unlock, lock, windows etc? I highly doubt both remotes crapped out right after each other even if they were from ebay. And any idea how to diagnose or is that going to be $100 at the dealer :rolleyes:

DDM (Driver's Door Module) has the RF receiver for the remotes on gen II. I assume gen I is similar.
 
Hey joegr, I am going to replace my DDM. Does it have to be hooked up to the car for them to flash, or can I leave it out? Or am I going to have to put it in and leave my inner door panel off, rolling into the dealer ghetto style?
 
Hey joegr, I am going to replace my DDM. Does it have to be hooked up to the car for them to flash, or can I leave it out? Or am I going to have to put it in and leave my inner door panel off, rolling into the dealer ghetto style?

No need to "flash" it for it to work. It would need to be flashed to set the factory code to something you would know. Also, since it is gen I, they will have to program the remotes to it, unless the used DDM came with a set of remotes.
 

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