Rear wheel came off

Jeffintampa

Jeffintampa

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Hi all
Daughter was driving my car home from work and the rear tire came off. It broke off 3 of the studs so I decided to get a Hub assembly at the local yard, 50.00 looks pretty easy to change 3 bolts and removing the brake caliper.

I am wondering is there any tricks I need to know to remove the axel from the hub?

Thanks
 
Did you get just hub or hub and knukle . Just hub will need to press out. I would have just bought 5 new studs knocked out old and pulled in new ones and be done. Way less time. Some times the axles slides right out of hub. Sometimes it need to be beat out like you would not believe. My 2 that I snapped couple weeks ago came out like butter. The 2 spares I got came in complete knukles. I had to torch and beat the bajesus out of them to get out.
 
I'm confused about how you're going about this. Rear hubs are pressed in and out of the knuckle. What I did was just take the knuckle off the car, buy a new motorcraft hub and timken bearing, and bring all the pieces to a machine shop and paid them $10 to press it together for me. Then put it back on the car.

If you're not concerned about that and have it all figured out and you're just asking about how to remove the knuckle from the car it's not hard. I haven't done it in about 3-4 years but I think I remember you need to make sure you don't mix up the bolts and they all face the correct way.
 
Thanks.
Yea I bought the whole knuckle looks like 3 just not sure how axel comes in and out of it.
 
not easy for sure, cant get the axel to move, the bottom left bolt to clear.
 
What I do is cut the flange off that bolt half way. I run them back in both my Mk8's. I can look for pic to show you what I mean if you want. You could quickly fix this by just putting in 5 new studs and be done.
 
Right on the Mark said:
What I do is cut the flange off that bolt half way. I run them back in both my Mk8's. I can look for pic to show you what I mean if you want. You could quickly fix this by just putting in 5 new studs and be done.
Click to expand...

Well not now I can I have that arm that holds that bolt half sawed off. I went and got a 7 ton wheel puller and tried to push that axel out ended up messing something up in the drive shaft. I should be able to finish cutting that arm that holds the bolt you cant remove and see whats going on in the drive shaft. I may call the yard and get the drive shaft the hub came from not sure UGLY JOB
 
Well crap I guess I opened a can of worms.

Does any one have a break down picture of the drive train on the side coming out of the pig?

I am looking at were the cv joint goes into the pig and when I turn the hub it is slipping like its not in jumps like two teeth kinda feels like in needs to be pushed in.

I am going to remove the black boot and see whats up but would like to see a tear down picture to see how it works or what I should see. If I can get it out of the pig I think I am just going to call the yard and get the one they took the hub off of.

What if anyone knows is the removal process of the cv joint from the pig
 
You just pop the axle out of the "pig" lol. Use a screw driver or pry bar. Go right in where axle is almost touching pig and pop axle out. See this is why I asked you to just replace the 5 studs and be done. Job would have been done in hour. You need to start takinng pics and posting with your ?'s it will make is easier to see what you mean.
 
Right on the Mark said:
You just pop the axle out of the "pig" lol. Use a screw driver or pry bar. Go right in where axle is almost touching pig and pop axle out. See this is why I asked you to just replace the 5 studs and be done. Job would have been done in hour. You need to start takinng pics and posting with your ?'s it will make is easier to see what you mean.
Click to expand...

I know duhhh on my part
 
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You just pulled the cv joint apart thats all there no biggie just put them back together. There was no need to cut that arm. You just cut some of the head off the bottom bolt you could not slip out. Once you trim bolt head it allows bolt to now slip past CV shaft and come out. Just pop the CV inner shaft stub out of the "pig'.
 
I trim bolt head with cut off wheel. I loosen bolt so head is away from alum arm when cutting head. Once cut is done roatate cut so its up and then push out bolt. When I reninstall cut bolt I put it in backwards.
bolt%20cut_zpskzrvhnab.jpg
 
Thank you sir. I called a friend that is going to take it and see if he can get that axel out and I am going to call the yard in the morning and see what they want for one. I will go out tom and see if I can get the rest out of the pig I didn't know if that was the connector or not.
 
Here is what pig ends of axles look like, You can see "c" clip on very end of axle. That's what "holds" axle in pig.
ice%20axles_zpsysqgwcdo.jpg
 
Thank you so very much, my friend took it and see If he can get the shaft out of the hub, I will try to remove the rest of it Or do I need to? Can I just push the rest back in?
 
Ok question for ya all. I called the yard I got the hub assembly off of and since I could not get the old cv axel out of my old hub asked if the one they took it off had one. He told me the car was not a LSC but the hub was good 93-98 but the cv had to be a LSC will a stock work?
 
The only difference between lsc and base are the diff. gears. everything is interchangeable.
In this case.
 
The gen 1 and 2 axle center bars are different dia's by alittle but does not matter, I put Gen 2 axles in my gen1. You should pop that stub out of trans nothing will leak out of pig. You will have to anyway when you get new used axle. The cv boots have to be banded/clamped properly when putting back together. Any cracks/leaks/holes will THROW out the grease.
 
Well 35.00 seemed the way to go. Can anyone whos done this chime in on the easiest way to install it all.
20161205_142749.jpg
 
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