Rear subwoofers removal.

DarkMansLSEV8

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guys i blew my rear 6x9 subs, and I ordered a new set. I went in there and I was trying to figure out how to get the old ones out, and it seems that you have to go thru the top. Now it seems impossible to take them out by the top b/c the top deck wont come off. I guess the rear seats have to come off also. Is there instructions on how to do this replacement? Or should I just go somewhere and get it done professionaly. Also if i do get it done professionaly how much is this going to run me?

DarkMansLSEV8
 
drop down the rear seat, the 2 sides of the rear seat will still be left, they had a small button in a hole by the top which will make the 2 small side of the back seat come down as well. the rear deck is held in place with about 4 plastic rivets, take them out and carefully slide the whole rear deck cover forward toward the front of the car, lightly bending the cover in the middle for the sides to come loose. Once you get in there its not that hard to do.
 
ok i brought down both sides of the rear seat, and I found the 4 plastic rivets, but it seems like theirs and outer part of the seats that wont come down on either end of the rear seats that have to be taken out in order to get to the speaker assembly, am i right?
 
DarkMansLSEV8 said:
ok i brought down both sides of the rear seat, and I found the 4 plastic rivets, but it seems like theirs and outer part of the seats that wont come down on either end of the rear seats that have to be taken out in order to get to the speaker assembly, am i right?

those two little side parts of the seat have a hole up toward the top where you can put your finger in and slide down a metal piece to unlock those and they will come down as well. Thats all that really holds the rear deck in place.
 
02v8sport do you know which cables for the rear subs are positive and negative, I used the light color wires as positive and the dark wires as negative am I right?
 
DarkMansLSEV8 said:
02v8sport do you know which cables for the rear subs are positive and negative, I used the light color wires as positive and the dark wires as negative am I right?

you are correct.
 
thanks for the help man. The new speakers sound good, they are CDT speakers im using the stock amplifier, if i want more power i would have to change to a better amp am i correct?
 
Yep, thats about all you can do. I have a Kicker 700.5 5 Channel amp I bought off of Ebay for $200 running all my speakers including 2- 10" Infinity's in a free-air setup and its more than loud for me.
 
DarkMansLSEV8 said:
thanks for the help man. The new speakers sound good, they are CDT speakers I'm using the stock amplifier, if i want more power i would have to change to a better amp am i correct?

How do the CDT speakers compare to the factory ones:
Were they the same size or did you have to enlarge the 6X9 holes?
How does the audio quality compare to stock?
What is the impedance of the CDT's?
 
well they dont bump as much b/c the stock amp is for 2ohm speakers and these are 4ohm, so the amp doesnt have enough power for the cdt speakers. Im going to have to upgrade the amp, ill keep you guys posted. About the holes I had to push down hard on the speakers in order to get them into the holes, for they are not fac spec. I do think that after I upgrade the amp these speakers are going to sound better than stock. A lot better, Ill keep you guys posted. BTW what amp do you guys recommend, something good and non expensive.

DarkMansLSEV8
 
I would get an amp in the price range of $150 - $250. The bigger the amp the better but you really only have two 7.5" free air subs.
I don't know how the factory amp works so make sure the new one has a built in low-pass crossover, bass boost would be nice too.
Keep us posted on the audio quality when you get the new amp!
 
The place I get my car audio/video equipment from has a nice little "bass boomer" or something like that, its a surround that goes behind the 6x9's. They work real nice and are pretty cheap.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3353.html

They look cheesy, but they work extremely well, if you know anything about car audio you will know that having free air subs isn't going to sound great at all, check these out!
 
was thinking of putting in a 4 channel amp in my 06 with nav but was woundering if i could take the wires from the factory amp and just use them for the new amp
 
I would just remove the stock subs, and get a sealed enclosure with a real sub and an amp.
 
was woundering if i could take the wires from the factory amp and just use them for the new amp

probably not the power wires at least, i dont think that the factory amp will be as powerful as the new one would be, therefore you would need thicker power wires
 
heck no, the factory amp wires are tiny and in a harness.

I would go with a minimum of 8 gauge, or bigger depending on the amp wired.
 
Im sure he meant to say aftermarket.

Anybody know the specs on the factory amp??
 
Im sure he meant to say aftermarket.

sorry, that was my mistake, thank you, its good that at least intelligent people can see through typo's

Anybody know the specs on the factory amp??
yea its crap, its believed to be around 50watts RMS, by the way that it is fused, the maxium power out put would be around 240 watts max, and thats with the amp being 100% efficient (which no amps are)
 
Yea that is crap but it makes those rear deck speakers sound pretty good.

I was surprised how good it sounded stock when i test drove it.
 
i wish it had the single 10" that the continental has instead, as it hits much lower, but it is pretty good for stock
 
no i wanted to run my own ground and battery wires for amp i just wanted to see if i could use the wires from the factory amp to the speakers
 

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