REAR STABILIZER SWAY BAR END LINKS AND REAR TORQUE TIE RODS

AmsterDutch

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Okay just changed out the rear tie rods ...toe adjustment and rear sway bars ...used aftermarket so not sure if there is a difference in length from 1st gen and 2nd gen? My rear tires are pointing inward to the poi t I can't even drive my 2006 Lincoln LS ...can this replacement throw off the alignment that much or did I get bamboozled by Amazon again?
 
Just did this same project about a month or so ago. Prior to installation, I adjusted the new toe links to be the same length as the ones I just removed and that was close enough to get me to the alignment shop.
 
Just did this same project about a month or so ago. Prior to installation, I adjusted the new toe links to be the same length as the ones I just removed and that was close enough to get me to the alignment shop.
Yes I liked your post on What did you do to your LS today Robert ...you were the one that gave inspiration to get these done before winter ...the problem is they don't line up in length with the old ones ...I put the new ones next ti old but the new ones at there shortest length are still an inch longer than the old ...I think Amazon got me again ...I should've known $65 dollars for sway bars and toe links/ rear tie Rods were to good to be true ...going to be an expense Monday at the tire shop buying retail tomorrow...I did this before on a 1st Gen and I paid $100 for a pair of rear toe links/ tie rods and no issue ...easy peezy lemon squeezes...now I pay :(
 
I think I read someplace (Amazon review?) that someone else had that same “too long” issue and cut them shorter to make fit. Don’t know if that is even possible. I feel your frustration and wish you the best with your efforts to resolve. Do the end links fit? Rob
 
I think I read someplace (Amazon review?) that someone else had that same “too long” issue and cut them shorter to make fit. Don’t know if that is even possible. I feel your frustration and wish you the best with your efforts to resolve. Do the end links fit? Rob
Thanks for your encouragement Robert ...after taking them off again I placed them next to my old ones and saw they weren't to far off on length ...so I took the nut off that is on the threads and twisted them back together ...low and behold it went down about a 1/2 inch and I placed them back on the car and POOF! they fit perfect and were the same exact length as the old existing ones :) So for anyone who buys this brand you'll have to take the nut off and they should fit perfect

$65.88







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Waverspeed
Price: $65.88 Condition:100% Brand New
  • Package Includes:2x Rear Stabilizer Sway Bar Link (left right) / 2x Torque Tie Rod End Set (left right)
  • Fit for Lincoln LS 2000-2006 / for Ford Thunderbird 2002-2005
  • Brand New Steering & Suspension Kit
  • If you have any questions, please contact us in

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That nut is a jam nut meant to hold the rod from spinning and changing length. I'd wanna check them fairly frequently to make sure they're not extending themselves, assuming they're at the minimum length. That still leaves no room for an alignment if they're still too long and toeing-in.

Did they bottom out when shortening or did they run out of thread? Bottoming out would be easy to fix, cut down the male portion. If it's out of thread, you could cut down the female side but make sure there's still a fair amount of thread. I would hope it's fully threaded inside. The rule of thumb for minimum thread depth is 1.5 times the diameter
 
That nut is a jam nut meant to hold the rod from spinning and changing length. I'd wanna check them fairly frequently to make sure they're not extending themselves, assuming they're at the minimum length. That still leaves no room for an alignment if they're still too long and toeing-in.

Did they bottom out when shortening or did they run out of thread? Bottoming out would be easy to fix, cut down the male portion. If it's out of thread, you could cut down the female side but make sure there's still a fair amount of thread. I would hope it's fully threaded inside. The rule of thumb for minimum thread depth is 1.5 times the diameter
That's a great idea to cut down the female end ...I think I will do that since there is plenty of thread there if need be when I take it in for an alignment...otherwise I'm thinking of it does start to come apart I will just put some loc-tire in the threads ...I will see what my tire shop says when I get it aligned...no problems in the way to work this morning
 
...so I took the nut off that is on the threads and twisted them back together ...low and behold it went down about a 1/2 inch and I placed them back on the car and POOF! they fit perfect and were the same exact length as the old existing ones :) So for anyone who buys this brand you'll have to take the nut off and they should fit perfect...

So, without the nut how can they be locked into place after alignment? (you must get a four wheel alignment now)
 
So, without the nut how can they be locked into place after alignment? (you must get a four wheel alignment now)
I don't need the nut...the two pieces are threaded together to the end just as a bolt and nut would be that's why I said if my tire shop guys say it is good where they are I'm going to have them throw some loc-tite in the female end and call it a day
 
That nut is a jam nut meant to hold the rod from spinning and changing length. I'd wanna check them fairly frequently to make sure they're not extending themselves, assuming they're at the minimum length. That still leaves no room for an alignment if they're still too long and toeing-in.

Did they bottom out when shortening or did they run out of thread? Bottoming out would be easy to fix, cut down the male portion. If it's out of thread, you could cut down the female side but make sure there's still a fair amount of thread. I would hope it's fully threaded inside. The rule of thumb for minimum thread depth is 1.5 times the diameter

So, without the nut how can they be locked into place after alignment? (you must get a four wheel alignment now)
Yea I will be getting an alignment on all four wheels this Wednesday and in the mean time I'll be watching it like a hawk
 
That car is, quite literally, a death trap without jam nuts.
Best case the car will start crab walking and you'll pull over.
More likely you'll suddenly loose control of the car. Remember what happened to Quik's? Only his was an unpredictable complete failure of the tie rod, while this is an entirely predictable failure of the tie rod.
 
It hasn't moved a millimeter after driving 20 miles to work but I'm putting them back on tonight and going to see where the alignment is sitting ...I put the lateral toe links on under load the first time the second time the car wasn't underlay and they fit 100% better so I'm thinking I could get those nuts on and the laterals will work
 
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Can someone tell me how this rear tie rod is going to turn loose when the bolt is preventing the rod to even turn?
 
Can you loosen it now? There is a lot of force involved with a 280 HP, near 4000 pound car (even more horse power when braking). Believe me, it can and will unscrew sooner or later. That said, I really can't understand what you mean by "when the bolt is preventing the rod to even turn."
There's a really good reason they put the nuts on there to lock them, same as with the front tie-rods. This will bite you. The only questions are when and will you take anyone else out.

The part of the unit that attaches to the knuckle can only rotate a little (enough to loosen, for sure), but the other side that connects near the middle under the car, that can rotate over and over again due to the ball joint.
 
When I
Can you loosen it now? There is a lot of force involved with a 280 HP, near 4000 pound car (even more horse power when braking). Believe me, it can and will unscrew sooner or later. That said, I really can't understand what you mean by "when the bolt is preventing the rod to even turn."
There's a really good reason they put the nuts on there to lock them, same as with the front tie-rods. This will bite you. The only questions are when and will you take anyone else out.
The bolt that is in the lower control arm ....look I'm putting the nut back on but when I just took this lateral arm off I could barely get the two pieces to detach
 
I have posted a picture of the bolt that's on the lateral arm and the nut I tighten it with I just can't see or wrap my mind around how it can turn off with a vertical bit and nut and another nut and bolt on the other end of the lateral arm is totally bottomed out and tight in the middle
 
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Problem solved I took the female end down with my grinder now it's the same length as the old lateral arm
 
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Okay I buttoned it all up and the nuts are on ...I went a little shorter so the tire shop can have some play when doing the alignment...the second tir rod was faster to do of course and the wheels look nice and straight...I took a tape measure and measured the front of the rear tire and the opposite front rear tire and the the back of the rear ti opposite back of rear to match it best I could until I get an alignment on Wednesday
 

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