Rear deck subs... 2 ohm or 4 ohm?

Fla02LS

Fla02LS

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I thought i read about this before but couldnt remember. I got one stock sub that just started rattling. If 2 ohm, are they harder to find? I'm not a bass head so just looking to find a replacement, the stock 6x9 looks like a pretty cheap speaker so something mid priced should be fine. Thanks
 
I doubt they are 2 ohm. I would guess more like 4 or 8.

Can you just use a DMM and hook it up to the leads to determine resistance?
 
Yeah, just take out the trusty miltimeter, set to ohm's, + on +, - on - leads to sub terminals.
 
Almost positive that they're 4 ohm. I just had mine out last weekend looking to replace them. Unfortunately the 6x9's that I had wouldn't fit. The basket for the speakers was slightly larger. Probably could get them to fit with spacers and longer screws, something I'm not willing to do.

Huge difference though going a week with them unplugged and then plugging them back in. Got to experience what other LS's might sound like that don't have the rear deck. Needless to say I'm glad I do. I almost don't want to put my system back in, they pound pretty good for being in there from the factory.
 
Yeah the rear deck subs actually sound very damn good.
 
I did a little fiberglass work on mine and was able to stick 2 8" woofers in the factory box. They were dual 2 ohm voice coil subs. After they were wired all up, it came out to 4 ohm at the factory amp, and it did not like that low of impedance. 8's can fit with a little work and they sounded suprisingly great. They won't wake up the neighborhood though.
 
Are we sure they're 4ohm??? I was looking into the CDT 6x9 subs as well but didn't think they would work with the stock amp based on some stuff I've read... Am I wrong??

Found the following in an old thread:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=29625&highlight=amplifier


well they dont bump as much b/c the stock amp is for 2ohm speakers and these are 4ohm (REFERRING TO CDT SPEAKERS), so the amp doesnt have enough power for the cdt speakers. Im going to have to upgrade the amp, ill keep you guys posted. About the holes I had to push down hard on the speakers in order to get them into the holes, for they are not fac spec. I do think that after I upgrade the amp these speakers are going to sound better than stock. A lot better, Ill keep you guys posted. BTW what amp do you guys recommend, something good and non expensive.
 
well you can look at it like this, even IF the factory subs are 4 ohm (which by the way, i would think it would be more common for the amp to be 2 ohm stable instead of 1 ohm stable) it still wouldn't hit as hard with the factory amp, the CDT's are much heavier built, the internal parts are heavier, therefore they are going to need more power to move them enough just to be the same loudness as OEM


also that quote is from "Marvin the douche" i would take anything he said with a grain of salt.
 
I made a mistake, it was 2 ohms at the factory amp after I wired up both of the subs. The factory amp was clipping and overheating at 2 ohms. If you use 4 ohm subs, I would wire them in series for 8 ohms at the amp if you are going to keep using the factory amp. Do it that way and see how it sounds. If you don't like it, you can always wire them in parallel and buy a 2 ohm stable amp. Like some others have said though, the factory amp leaves a lot to be desired.
 
if you wire them in series, then you will cut the power output down even further, its already going to be too weak to drive any real subs, at lower output, it wouldn't even be worth the trouble to change it from stock.

with the exception of replacing a blown OEM, you really should be replacing the amp if you want to upgrade the subs.
 
I'll spare you guys most of the math, but if you want maxim power output, then the impedance of the load (subs) needs to exactly match the impedance of the source (factory amp).

Power is current times voltage.

If your load has lower resistance than the source, then the current will be higher, but the voltage will be lower. The result is less than maximum possible power.

If your load has higher resistance than the source, then the voltage will be higher, but the current will be lower. The result is less than maximum possible power.
 
I have the cdt and they sound great the stocks do have a little more bump but not that much. Dude remove the speakers and at the bottom of the magnet there will be a sign that says 45watts and ? Ohms, I did this over 3 years ago but I thought they was 4 ohms but I could be wrong, just check the bottom of the speakers. Now I do have the thx and I don't know if they are different, I know the doors are different buy I don't know about the subs.
 
chocolat1701 said:
I have the cdt and they sound great the stocks do have a little more bump but not that much. Dude remove the speakers and at the bottom of the magnet there will be a sign that says 45watts and ? Ohms, I did this over 3 years ago but I thought they was 4 ohms but I could be wrong, just check the bottom of the speakers. Now I do have the thx and I don't know if they are different, I know the doors are different buy I don't know about the subs.
Click to expand...

The cdt's were a downgrade from the stock? Did you keep the stock amp or upgrade?
 
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