CTX-SLPR
Well-Known LVC Member
Howdy,
I'm going to stop polluting the 12.6in Brake thread and start my own on this.
I'm having trouble with my rear brakes after doing the first rear brake job ever on the car at 103K miles. The pads were down to the last 1-2mm on the outboard pads though the insides still looked fine. I used the EU806 pads from a Jag Sport but they were barely too wide fit in the stock slider hardware so I filed down the edges so they slid like I remember the fronts doing when I did them this summer. I compressed the pistons with an autozone compressor thing that pushes and turns the calipers at the same time and ran them down till they wouldn't compress anymore. Instead of taking the cap off of the reserviour I opened the bleeders into a "solo bleeder" and let the fluid out that way, tightening them down again when I was done. I lubed the pins and the slide points on the pads with CRC synthetic brake grease and put the CRC BrakeQuiet on the backs of the pads where they contacted the caliper and piston. After bedding the pads with 10 to 15 20->5 and 40->20 slow, coast, accell, repeat cycles I just started driving as normal.
On the trip to work and back things were fine but on longer trips I noticed that it smelled like I was dragging a caliper. I took everything apart and checked everything and found one of the drivers pads had the pin mashed down like it was sitting on the piston face, not in the groove. I had to lightly push the pistons back in with a c clamp (the pistons did rotate when I did) then I realigned the grooves for the pins on the pads and put it all back together using new grease and brakequiet. Still great going to and from work but a longer trip had smoke pouring off of one of the rear brakes at a stoplight after coming to a stop from 60 in a bit of hurry. Both sides smell and are putting out more heat than the fronts are. I'm worried about cooking the calipers and warping the rotors making this job much more expensive than it has been already.
Thoughts?
I'm going to stop polluting the 12.6in Brake thread and start my own on this.
I'm having trouble with my rear brakes after doing the first rear brake job ever on the car at 103K miles. The pads were down to the last 1-2mm on the outboard pads though the insides still looked fine. I used the EU806 pads from a Jag Sport but they were barely too wide fit in the stock slider hardware so I filed down the edges so they slid like I remember the fronts doing when I did them this summer. I compressed the pistons with an autozone compressor thing that pushes and turns the calipers at the same time and ran them down till they wouldn't compress anymore. Instead of taking the cap off of the reserviour I opened the bleeders into a "solo bleeder" and let the fluid out that way, tightening them down again when I was done. I lubed the pins and the slide points on the pads with CRC synthetic brake grease and put the CRC BrakeQuiet on the backs of the pads where they contacted the caliper and piston. After bedding the pads with 10 to 15 20->5 and 40->20 slow, coast, accell, repeat cycles I just started driving as normal.
On the trip to work and back things were fine but on longer trips I noticed that it smelled like I was dragging a caliper. I took everything apart and checked everything and found one of the drivers pads had the pin mashed down like it was sitting on the piston face, not in the groove. I had to lightly push the pistons back in with a c clamp (the pistons did rotate when I did) then I realigned the grooves for the pins on the pads and put it all back together using new grease and brakequiet. Still great going to and from work but a longer trip had smoke pouring off of one of the rear brakes at a stoplight after coming to a stop from 60 in a bit of hurry. Both sides smell and are putting out more heat than the fronts are. I'm worried about cooking the calipers and warping the rotors making this job much more expensive than it has been already.
Thoughts?
