rear bearing noise

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catman02

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i had my car at the dealer and was told that i needed a right rear hub at a cost of 1500 bucks they said my extended warrenty didnt cover it . so i got a junk yard hub that made even more noise so i bought a bearing and had it pressed into the original hub and i still get a thumping huming noise is there a certain procedure to tightining the axle nut one guy told me to preload the bearing at 250 ft lbs . i dont want to make it worse than it already is could i have over tightend the first hub , on hte new bearing i snugged it up and gave it a 1/4 turn more any help would be greatly apreciated as i am real low on cash atm
 
That axle nut is suppose to be 305ft\lbs. Grab the wheel and try shaking it side to side and up and down. Sound like it could be linkages.
 
Here this may help OWLMAN posted this like 2 years ago:

Item Part Number Description
1 4B477 Axle shaft nut
2 W520213 Toe link outboard nut
3 W705517 Toe link outboard bolt
4 W500014 Wheel speed sensor bolt
5 W705518 Lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut
6 W705516 Lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt
7 W520214 Upper ball joint nut
8 5A968 Wheel knuckle and wheel hub assembly
9 — Speed sensor retainer clip (part of 2C190)
10 W520214 Upper arm-to-subframe nut (2 required)
11 W704887 Upper arm-to-subframe bolt (2 required)
12 5500 Upper arm
13 W520213 Stabilizer bar link lower nut
14 5C486 Stabilizer bar link
15 W704884 Shock absorber lower bolt
16 18125 Shock absorber
17 W520215 Lower arm-to-subframe nut (2 required)
18 W704886/ 704888 Lower arm-to-subframe bolt (2 required)
19 5A649 Lower arm
20 N807144 Toe link inboard nut
21 5B551 Toe link


SECTION 204-02: Rear Suspension 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 06/24/2005

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Toe Link Printable View (10 KB)
Removal

CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation is necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

NOTE: The toe link retainers are of a torque prevailing design and new bolts and nuts must be used during installation.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
2. Remove and discard the toe link outboard nut and bolt and disconnect the toe link from the wheel knuckle.
To install, tighten to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. NOTE: Use the hex-holding feature to prevent the toe link ball joint from turning while removing the nut.

Remove and discard the toe link inboard nut and remove the toe link.
To install, tighten to 70 Nm (52 lb-ft)
4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
5. Check and, if necessary, align the rear end. For additional information, refer to Section 204-00 .

link.jpg


rear toelink adjuster.jpg
 
HOLY CRAP MONK!!!!!!!!!! U da man! whats the link or thread name so I can find the entire post?
 
I had a problem with a rear wheel bearing, got the same story from the dealer, and had a bearing pressed into my hub/knuckle. Now silent, no problems. It is possible the bearing was not pressed in right, though I don't know how you would check that. But I think it more likely that you are on the right track to suspect something else.

Good luck.
 
For you guys that had the bearings go bad, was there ever a rumbling felt in the car??? I dont have typical wheel bearing noise but get a vibrating/rumbling in the car at speeds of 40-60 mph, below 40 or above 60 it is gone. It can be felt when om the lift also as long as in that speed???
 
LS_Monk said:
Could even be a tire wieght. I have seen that before.
Click to expand...

I rebalanced my winter wheels/tires, was still there, I now put my summer wheels/tires on and still there. I dont think related in any way to wheels/tires cause it does it with the wheels off the ground on the lift. I replaced 1 of the axles cause it did not look like it was spinning true.
 
thanks for the replies , well today i borrowed a friends torque wrench and checked the torque i was alittle low the dealer said 210ftlbs so i went to that now i got rid of my hum but the clunking is still there but it only clunks when i decelerate if i speed up no clunking banging noise when i let off gas all sorts of noise like something is rattling in the trunk but i made sure that was empty ,the clunk isnt consistant like a steady thump its all over and when i hit the brakes it still clunks , any chance the other side bearing is bad and the dealer just screwed me ?
 
I doubt the dealer would be that stupid (most of the time). Wheel bearing diagnostic isn't that tough. If you get it up on a lift you can hear it, or use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope to confirm.

I don't think a clunk is associated with a wheel bearing. Get it on a lift and run the thing and see if the clunk happens then. It sounds like something else in the suspension to me. Shocks can clunk, for instance.

Good luck.
 
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