Rear Axle Threads Looks Like Shipwreck!

[ATPJOE]

2000 LS8 Sport 88K Miles

I ordered a new bearing and axle nut for my passenger rear and both my rear axles look like the Titanic after sitting under the Atlantic for ages haha. Is my only option now to chisel the nut off, change the bearing AND the axle?

Also I know my tie rod ends are bad, but is this gap sketchy looking or is it me? Should I try to crank that nut down?

And to keep this eventful post going... I suspect my clocking spring is bad (5x5 chime, steering wheel buttons not working right).... is the cheapest/only place to get a new one from Ford? Not a big deal really, the chimes are annoying and my airbags probably won't deploy but I guess that's what seatbelts are for.

Also what fluid do I put in the Fan Fluid reservoir? Something stocked at Autozone? It's a bit low.

Thanks in advance. This place is beyond helpful. My iPhone is about to be sold so no more good looking pictures for my Linc adventures. :shifty:

 

[LLADNAR]

You may not have to change the axles,, odds are once you take the nut off the threads that are actually under the nut currently are still there. I've seen this exact condition on Explorers with IRS. The real problem comes in re-assembly if you can't get the axle in far enough you wont have those threads that rusted off to help draw the axle back in. And beating on the backside is a no go since you risk hitting and ruining the boot.

 

[Shredicus]

From what ive heard yeah, ford is the only place to get a clockspring

 

[joegr]

...
Also I know my tie rod ends are bad, but is this gap sketchy looking or is it me? Should I try to crank that nut down?

...
Also what fluid do I put in the Fan Fluid reservoir? Something stocked at Autozone? It's a bit low.

...

Don't "crank that nut down." It's a one time nut and you will have to replace it (and any others on the suspension) if you move it. This is because of the aluminum suspension parts. If you don't the nut will spin itself off after a little while.

The fluid for the fan is Mercon V. Perhaps you should download an owner's manual. Putting the wrong fluid in can be very expensive. BTW, the power steering is also Mercon V. (The owner's manual will say Mercon for both, but a TSB later updated that to Mercon V, since Mercon is not made anymore.)

 

[TooManyToys]

.......
Also I know my tie rod ends are bad, but is this gap sketchy looking or is it me? Should I try to crank that nut down? ..........

If you're asking about "crank that nut down?" then you haven't done any suspension work before. I really would suggest you do a lot more reading about how a car goes together and possibly have a friend who has done this work be with you, or just take it to a mechanic. While doing DIY is a good cost savings and learning method, it can get you into a whole lot of hurt both in the pocketbook and with vehicle safety.

That nut pulls the tapered part of the tie rod end into it's corresponding tapered hole in the knuckle. Tightening it down will do nothing for the damaged seal on the tie rod end.

I would have been a lot more comfortable about you if you had asked how to deal with the seal issue rather then going directly to cranking on something.

 

[ATPJOE]

If you're asking about "crank that nut down?" then you haven't done any suspension work before. I really would suggest you do a lot more reading about how a car goes together and possibly have a friend who has done this work be with you, or just take it to a mechanic. While doing DIY is a good cost savings and learning method, it can get you into a whole lot of hurt both in the pocketbook and with vehicle safety.

That nut pulls the tapered part of the tie rod end into it's corresponding tapered hole in the knuckle. Tightening it down will do nothing for the damaged seal on the tie rod end.

I would have been a lot more comfortable about you if you had asked how to deal with the seal issue rather then going directly to cranking on something.

I didn't crank anything down man, this is why I asked here first. Trying to discourage DIY to me is atrocious. You are correct in assuming I have limited suspension experience. All I have done on suspensions is ball joints. However I don't crawl under my car and wing it and start turning bolts without seeking input first.

The whole point of forums is to share information and communicate. If I just had a mechanic do all my work... I wouldn't be on here and be another drone afraid of their car.

You may not have to change the axles,, odds are once you take the nut off the threads that are actually under the nut currently are still there. I've seen this exact condition on Explorers with IRS. The real problem comes in re-assembly if you can't get the axle in far enough you wont have those threads that rusted off to help draw the axle back in. And beating on the backside is a no go since you risk hitting and ruining the boot.

Makes sense, I'll just factor in the expense of a new axle when I do it. They aren't too expensive. I used to have a S10 Blazer from 94 and I beat the piss out of that thing, nothing ever corroded THAT bad. I was surprised to see a car from 2000 with gnarly corrosion on some stuff.

 

[112 LS]

Hey ATP, I'll be doing my hubs/bearings very soon. Interested in how you made out with this.

my axle nuts also look like they were floating in the ocean but not as long as yours.

 

[marcredd]

Kinda off topic but ever notice that we rarely hear about preventative maintainance on rear suspension parts?