Went to replace my rear pads for the second time in almost seven years. Replaced the rear pads the first time at 56k, and the second time yesterday at 115k after hearing grinding. Had planned to check the brakes out next weekend for routine maintenance. Anyways, passenger side rears still looked to have about 4k left on them, outer drivers rear had about 4 left, drivers inboard pad was metal and gouged the rotor. No problem as I had planned to replace the rear rotors at this time (second pad change) anyways. got the passenger side done no problem, but drivers side I noticed one of the sliding caliper pins was COMPLETELY stuck/frozen in the caliper bracket housing. Pulled the boot back and it was rusted well. Sprayed PB and let it soak, still stuck. Wacked it GOOD with a 8lb sledge a few times, and no movement at all. Broke out the blow torch and heated it up. Nothing. I mean this pin is IN THERE. Any suggestions other than a new caliper bracket and new pin kit? Ive read other tips on here..but nothings working
REALLY Frozen Caliper Piston Pin
- Thread starter lseguy
- Start date
I have no issue getting another pin and boot. I just would like to get the old one out of the bracket so that I can at least re-use the bracket.
By the way..I have to accept responsibility for this one. Didnt pull the pin out and add caliper pin grease to the pin/under the boot ever before. Paying the price now. I did, however, take this time to pull all the wheels and grease all pins today and will now make sure I ALWAYS grease those pins at pad change time.
By the way..I have to accept responsibility for this one. Didnt pull the pin out and add caliper pin grease to the pin/under the boot ever before. Paying the price now. I did, however, take this time to pull all the wheels and grease all pins today and will now make sure I ALWAYS grease those pins at pad change time.
Odds are if the pin corroded that bad, it also effected the bracket. You'd be hard pressed to get the corrosion out while maintaining the proper size, shape, and finish.
Did your pistons push (or "turn" as it is in the back) into the calipers easily?
Ok, I understand your first point.
Your last question: Im assuming you are referring to the actual caliper pistons. The passenger side went terribly using that cube. Same as last time. Finally gave up on it and went to harbor freight and got the proper tool. Finished it up in no time. Havent attempted to compress the drivers side rear yet as I was too busy fooling with that danged caliper bracket/floating piston thats frozen.
Lincoln Jealous
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once i had a frozen pin, take a screwdriver and put it on the head of the pin, then hit it with a hammer.. might also need some vise grips and twist the pin back and forth a few times to break the rust on the inside. its not like its machined pressed in there lol
Update. Let it soak overnight in the PB. Broke out the large grip pliers and attempted to twist back and forth. Nothing. Used the sledge again to hit it downward (i can tell by the other pin that the frozen pin is not all the way down into the housing..hitting it should break the rust) ...NO movement at all. I already ordered a new bracket and pin..but amazing how strong this rust is. I'll break out the torch later and go at it again just for the heck of it.
Lincoln Jealous
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yeah, if it is that bad, just get a new bracket, its amazing how they dry up so bad, then they rust and freeze, i guess it is common with this car, we should make a list of all these extra maintenance things we need to do with this car
No doubt. We tried for a full afternoon trying to pry the piston loose without any success. In three minutes we were able to twist it out after using the torch.
Lincoln Jealous
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yeah because i think once that grease is gone, heat from the brakes, and water and maybe dirt gets into the boots and rust its, i think if we check them and grease them every 6 months we would be all set
I wouldn't say this is an LS thing. It isn't like the LS has some strange form of calipers that other cars don't have. This is a typical brake issue, not a typical LS issue. I bet if you look at the official maintenance manual for the car it is probably listed as part of the regular maintenance schedule.
That being said, there are plenty of items that can go on the extra maintenance list for our cars. They're a lot like high maintenance women in many respects. -fun to ride!
I'll do that. nothing to lose at this point.
And I admitted...my fault on this whole thing. had the car since new, now has 115k on it, and Ive always done the pad changes myself. Never have I checked/re-greased those pins like I should have.
Fixed. Replacement bracket from the dealership came with new pistons/boots already installed. List was around $79 and my price with discount came to $59. New Duralast rotors and Duralast Gold semi metallic pads from Autozone (or Advance..I forget which) were $33 for each rotor and $40 for the pads..which actually were free since the pads have a lifetime warranty and when I changed the pads last time, I used Duralast Gold. Gave them the old receipt and took in the old pads...got new ones for free. Also flushed the entire braking system with a pressure bleeder. Pedal feels higher and firmer now.
Gus_Mahn
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It seems like a Ford thing. The boots seem to leak water and the pins get stuck. The one struck on my F-150 very hard. I had to heat the mount over the pin red hot with oxy/fuel to get the pin out. From my experience Sil-glide is the best lube to use on Ford slides.