Random ETC Failsafe

Caleb

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So randomly my ETC failsafe will come on. Still runs good. Only thing I notice is maybe a little less power, and overdrive doesn’t work.

Park car, kill engine, restart, runs like a champ.

my traction control light and ABS light came on at the same time. They won’t go away, but the fail safe comes and goes.

codes I have -
P2106 - throttle actuator control system forced limited power
P0193 - fuel rail pressure sensor cot high input

I will also add the previous owner changed the fuel pump, and the sock fell off. Also is leaking a little fuel out of the plastic ring, so I think I’m going to get a new one with gasket. Also, fuel gauge does not work correctly.
Don’t know if this is related or not, just throwing it out there.

I have read that a bad COP on #3 or #4 cylinder can cause this.

thoughts?
 
Any work done to it recently... that would have required disconnecting wiring harness plugs at the throttle body?

sat for 5 years. Diode for PCM and Fuel pump stopped it from running. Found it driver side cat was stopped up. Replaced whole exhaust. Had a transmission issue. Replaced valve body, solenoid pack, and reverse servo. New fluid and filter. Good as new.

now this.
 
It's most likely related to your ABS and Traction Control light's. There should be other codes. You might need a better scan tool to retrieve them.

You could check for corroded plugs or cut wires at the wheel speed sensors.
 
It's most likely related to your ABS and Traction Control light's. There should be other codes. You might need a better scan tool to retrieve them.

You could check for corroded plugs or cut wires at the wheel speed sensors.


I’ll try Forscan again. Previous owner had 20’s on this thing with sprinter helpers like a dummy. Got those off. Took roughly 200 miles off driving and fixing problems for ABS, traction control to appear. Also maybe forgot to mention....


after replacing exhaust, found a misfire on #1. Seen that they had replace about 5 COP’s with autozone brand coil packs. 1 of which was on #1. Swapped it. Fixed misfire. But! Still have the autozone brand on #3 & #4 and some on the passenger side
 
It's most likely related to your ABS and Traction Control light's. There should be other codes. You might need a better scan tool to retrieve them.


You could check for corroded plugs or cut wires at the wheel speed sensors.

they had these ghetto 20” wheels and spring helpers on there so could be that. Not a major deal really, just mentioning Incase it’s related. Not hurting my feelings if everything else works correctly.
 
The P0193 is high fuel pressure... don't know if that would be related to the butchery the previous owner did.


This code started first, then a week or so later came the throttle actuator one.this one could have something to do with them not putting in fuel pump correctly. Going to fix that and see what happens. I need to test my jet pump and see if it is working also.
 
In addition - I have 2 high pressure codes -

P0193 - fuel rail pressure sensor high input

P2068 - fuel level sensor b ckt high
 
Also.. seems like if failsafe is going to trigger, it’s going to do it within the first 2 minutes of driving. I find it usually happens when first leaving my house, slightly bumpy road. If I stop, kill it, restart, hit the highway, it won’t come back. I noticed #4 COP harness clip is broken so the wires a slightly loose. I can always use a zip tie for a moment, but just throwing it out there Incase maybe this moving around loosely could cause this issue?
 
Still having ABS issues with/before the ETC failsafe?
P2068 is a fuel level float (gas gauge) sender error, not pressure related. High indicates that the voltage is higher than is possible with a working sensor.

Similarly, the P0193 is more likely indicating the voltage is too high for a working pressure sensor, not that the pressure itself is too high (though it may be high as well due to the non working sensor). The fuel pressure sensor is on the fuel rail at the front of the passenger side of the engine. It is easily damaged when disconnecting the EGR exhaust connection. I usually remove the fuel pressure sensor first to avoid this possibility.

Of course, either or both could be wiring problems.
 
Still having ABS issues with/before the ETC failsafe?
P2068 is a fuel level float (gas gauge) sender error, not pressure related. High indicates that the voltage is higher than is possible with a working sensor.

Similarly, the P0193 is more likely indicating the voltage is too high for a working pressure sensor, not that the pressure itself is too high (though it may be high as well due to the non working sensor). The fuel pressure sensor is on the fuel rail at the front of the passenger side of the engine. It is easily damaged when disconnecting the EGR exhaust connection. I usually remove the fuel pressure sensor first to avoid this possibility.

Of course, either or both could be wiring problems.

thanks for input.

yes, abs light has made a permanent home. Stays on no matter what. What is the problem here?

sounds like I should tackle the float gauge issue first, then proceed to looking at the rail sensor. Either way, I have access to replacements for both.
 
The ABS feeds vehicle speed information to the PCM. The ETC uses vehicle speed for part of its normal control algorithm. One of the ETC failsafe modes results from not having reliable/valid vehicle speed information. I suspect that this may be the one you are experiencing, since this one shows only a little difference in actual operation.

"The fuel gauge system has a saddle-type fuel tank with 2 integrated fuel senders: the fuel delivery module and the jet pump module. The fuel delivery module is located on the right side of the fuel tank, and the jet pump module is located on the left side of the fuel tank. The fuel level status is sent directly to the REM, which is hardwired to the fuel senders. The REM sends the fuel data to the instrument cluster via the communication network. Normal operating range of the fuel delivery module is from 16 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 155 ± 4 ohms at full (F). The normal operating range of the jet pump module sender is from 19 ± 2 ohms at empty (E) to 160 ± 2 ohms at full (F). If either the REM or the jet pump module fuel sender has an open or shorted signal, the instrument cluster logs diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1201. If the jet pump module sender is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the fuel delivery module sender value only and the fuel gauge indicates E to 1/2 tank (depending on the fuel level on the fuel delivery module side of the tank). If the fuel delivery module is open, the fuel gauge defaults to the empty position."

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xd1003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-B
 
Is there a pinpoint to start troubleshooting ABS? Sounds like it could be an issue.

as far as fuel, I had a hunch my jet pump might not be working. Usually gas gauge is half of less, sometimes moves but usually stays in one place in that range.

filled up for the first time the other day, and is now showing 3/4 of a tank. I’ll be looking further at this during the weekend
 
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

If the jet pump isn't working, then you won't be able to use the 1/3 or so of the tank that is on the driver's side and below the hump for the exhaust and driveshaft. It could be the sender on that side though.
 
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

If the jet pump isn't working, then you won't be able to use the 1/3 or so of the tank that is on the driver's side and below the hump for the exhaust and driveshaft. It could be the sender on that side though.

perfect. Tells me exactly what I need to know. Either way I have all parts available. I’ll dive into it this weekend and update findings on both. as always, thanks for perfect input.

side note - your name gets tossed around every time we work on a car, and can’t figure it out. “Well, crap. Time to go ask Joe”. Hell im starting to think we need to invite you over for thanksgiving dinner. Where did you obtain this wealth of Lincoln knowledge?
 
As an afterthought... since somebody has messed around with the fuel system... you msy want to see if you can determine if the fuel pressure sensor was replaced with a cheap aftermarket parts store fuel pressure sensor.

As Joe pointed out... someone may have broken and/or replaced the original ... and the LS doesn't seem to like cheap aftermarket parts.
 
perfect. Tells me exactly what I need to know. Either way I have all parts available. I’ll dive into it this weekend and update findings on both. as always, thanks for perfect input.

side note - your name gets tossed around every time we work on a car, and can’t figure it out. “Well, crap. Time to go ask Joe”. Hell im starting to think we need to invite you over for thanksgiving dinner. Where did you obtain this wealth of Lincoln knowledge?
FWIW...I've heard more times than not from past, present members on the Forum that once one COP goes sooner than later others tear there ugly head...but I agree fuel system needs checking if not a overhaul/Replacing on the fuel pump assembly module...shouldn't be leaking out of O ring ...that's for sure
 
As an afterthought... since somebody has messed around with the fuel system... you msy want to see if you can determine if the fuel pressure sensor was replaced with a cheap aftermarket parts store fuel pressure sensor.

As Joe pointed out... someone may have broken and/or replaced the original ... and the LS doesn't seem to like cheap aftermarket parts.

I’ll definitely check it. If so, I have a replacement ready.
 
FWIW...I've heard more times than not from past, present members on the Forum that once one COP goes sooner than later others tear there ugly head...but I agree fuel system needs checking if not a overhaul/Replacing on the fuel pump assembly module...shouldn't be leaking out of O ring ...that's for sure


I believe it. For some reason they didn’t replace all of them, and the ones seeming to have an issue are the new cheap brand they put on, so I’m gonna throw the stock ones back on and see how it acts then.

I’m thinking they didn’t put the O-ring in the plastic ring when the replaced it, so I’m going to check and replace that if necessary.
 
Morning thoughts - could bad gas cause any of the issues I’m having?

reason being, I had speculation the jet pump might not be working, and based on comments above, I am leaning more towards that.

I used a gas can at home, out 3-4 gallons in, went to the gas station, filled up, and it only took around 11-12 gallons more. To my knowledge a full tank is somewhere around 18-19 gallons (please correct me if this is wrong). But this would mean the driver side of the tank still had plenty of 5-6 year old gas sitting in it that wouldn’t have moved to the primary fuel pump side until driving around, sloshing around, and filling up to mix in with the other gas.
 

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