R 1 brakes

IllinoisMarkVIII

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I made a offer of 325 on Ebay for the Premium R 1 drilled/slotted rotors, with semi-metallic pads and they took it. $45 dollars shipping to central IL. That 60 bucks cheaper than website prices, and 85 cheaper than the buy it now price. I will take pics and post them when I get the brakes.
 
Im actually working with that shop for the hub conversion, thier customer service is awsome.
 
Im actually working with that shop for the hub conversion, thier customer service is awsome.


I second that, with the customer service. I had ordered a complete set for the VII. UPS and I couldn't meet up and they sent the rotors and pads back. R1 resent the order, on their dime, to me. I'll have the pads and rotors installed this coming week and report back in.

:cool:
 
Are these brakes any good? let me know b/c Im in the market for some new brakes.

The best performing and longest lasting brakes are solid rotor., non-drilled and non-slotted. And they're cheaper, also! I can't help but think 'moron' when I see that drilled and slotted crap. I wish I could get by with drilling holes in things and sell them for twice what they were worth before they were wrecked, that'd be an awesome profit margin.
 
On why cross drilled:

Braking produces gasses, and cross drilling give the
gasses a way to escape, thereby increasing contact
pressure. In addition, a cross-drilled rotor now has more
surface area, and thus cools down more quickly.
Personally [Jan] I do not advice cross drilled rotors
because of the increased likelihood of cracking. DO NOT
CROSS DRILL ROTORS YOURSELF. It's usually done on an NC
machine at calculated positions followed by stress
relieving.

The comments from people on driller rotors are that they
improve braking under competitive situations, but only
provide a marginal benefit under normal street use. The
also feel more uneven when you brake (esp. the slotted
ones) and are also noisier (they "humm"). Note that cross
drilling is actually banned for certain competitive
events, so check before you invest. Cross drilled rotors
will also wear out your pads in a big hurry.

Another alternative to x-drilling rotors is to buy
slotted or grooved rotors and pads.

there ya go. they are more effective but don't make sense unless you're planning on doing some serious racing
 
The r4s(sr4s whatever:D ) pads are designed to exit brake gases quickly and are great with oem style rotors. No slots needed. Cryo the oems(extends rotor life) and get the r4s pads. All the extra drilling and groovin' helps keep them cooler, disapates heat faster but also allows them to wear out faster. Add to the list of choices...... E3's, Autolite, bags, coils, dubs, stockers.
 
Out-gassing of pads usually isn't an issue anymore with modern materials, more so on the street.
Most do crossdrilled/slotted for looks...
 
The r4s(sr4s whatever:D ) pads are designed to exit brake gases quickly and are great with oem style rotors. No slots needed. Cryo the oems(extends rotor life) and get the r4s pads. All the extra drilling and groovin' helps keep them cooler, disapates heat faster but also allows them to wear out faster. Add to the list of choices...... E3's, Autolite, bags, coils, dubs, stockers.

My understanding, from both nascar and indy car, is the solid rotor provides a larger brake surface. Which dissipates heat faster due to having more material to disperse heat to; less concentrated friction. All the holes do is raise temperature because there's barely any place for the holes to dissipate heat to, at the same time having less surface area for the pads to grip, raising rotor temp dramatically higher than any holes could help cool. Cross drilled doesn't get rid of any brake gases. What brake gases? Heat? Lol. The holes would probably have to be drilled in an arc shape diagonally through the rotor to do so anyways. *shrug. The experts (not brake salesmen) say that the only of the two that could be beneficial is slotted, due to brake pads that will burn onto the rotor, creating build up, acting like ice for the brake pad to grip to. But, brake pads have come a long ways, and that's why slotted rotors are pointless. Drilled always have been. When you see them on a mountain bike it's to save weight and look cool. When you see them on a nascar you're on an acid trip, and when you see them on a mustang the guy wants attention. Lol. I argued when I was told the same and did some research, so research outside of the sites that SELL the junk and you'll see.
 
Maybe I drank the kool-aid and maybe they will work better. I have always liked the look, and willing to try something new. BUT ...all the police package crown vics came drilled and slotted. Also a fully loaded squad car dwarfs our cars for weight. I drive very aggressive, live in BFE and still dont run my car like a county cop in the middle of the corn fields! Thanks for the crown vic info Geno.
 
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BUT ...all the police package crown vics came drilled and slotted. Also a fully loaded squad car dwarfs our cars for weight. I drive very aggressive, live in BFE and still dont run my car like a county cop in the middle of the corn fields! Thanks for the crown vic info Geno.

No, they didn't. Owning one, I hear a lot of things people think CVPIs have ("cop" chip/tune, unlimited top speed, cobra engine, etc) but this is a new one on me.
 
The best performing and longest lasting brakes are solid rotor., non-drilled and non-slotted. And they're cheaper, also! I can't help but think 'moron' when I see that drilled and slotted crap. I wish I could get by with drilling holes in things and sell them for twice what they were worth before they were wrecked, that'd be an awesome profit margin.

The Crown Vic CVPI's come with cross drilled rotors, not slotted and twin piston calipers.
 
The Crown Vic CVPI's come with cross drilled rotors, not slotted and twin piston calipers.

Sorry.... but your wrong.

The ONLY difference with the brakes on a Police Interceptor Vic and an LX Civi Vic is that the front calipers have phenolic pistons, not steel. I've been daily driving a 2000 Crown Vic Police Interceptor for two years now.
 
Did these 1999 P71 brakes 3 weeks ago, factory car with full history and it has cross drilled rotors and twin piston calipers.

Factory spec:
BRAKES:
4-Circuit Anti-Lock Brakes with dual piston calipers (front brakes only)
Vented brake disks on front wheels, Solid brake disks on rear wheels

Heres the old front rotors.

brake1.jpg


brake2.jpg


brake3.jpg


brake4.jpg
 
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Those are Bendix High Performance Rotors (they have a casting plant in Canada). I wouldn't be suprised that some Cop cars didn't get high performance packadges because they were not ordered with them. I know locally that as the vehicles get serviced they are getting these HD pieces added.

IMHO I think they are a waste of money. Just look at all the area that turns to rust, and that is not conducive to cooling. (Rusty holes)
 
Those aint factory!

If you found a motocraft stamped into the hat maybe I would look into this, but they just aren't factory.

It isn't uncommon for a PI to get new brakes within 5-10k of the car being new, and then get brakes that often for the life of the car. My 00 had 71k when I got it, and the brakes had been done four times.
 
Well the first thing is these rotors are cast, and Motor Craft doesn't have a part number on it. These are internal casting numbers only at the foundry. This casting is made into several different part numbers. Motor Craft is only a marketing arm and not the manufacturer.
 
Well we service 2 pd's here locally and we just had an 04 with 21k and it had cross drilled rotors and I also saw them without the cross drilling as well.
 
Maybe it's an option that can be ordered? I have never seen them on a P-71 either but maybe they might be able to be ordered that way???
 
Wow... interesting...

So seeing that I'm in the market for some rotors... don't bother with drilled and slotted I take it!

Save the money... is what technology is saying....

Also I've purchased from R1 3 years ago for my 93 and they are holding up well.
 
Did these 1999 P71 brakes 3 weeks ago, factory car with full history and it has cross drilled rotors and twin piston calipers.

Factory spec:
BRAKES:
4-Circuit Anti-Lock Brakes with dual piston calipers (front brakes only)
Vented brake disks on front wheels, Solid brake disks on rear wheels

Heres the old front rotors.


Vented brake discs.. all disc brakes are vented, and listed as such. Go to napa and ask for a vented rotor. You'll get two disc sides with vents all the way around in one casting, -vents are from center of rotor outward. You can stick your pinky in one and throw it like a yo yo and break your pinky.
 

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