Quick question about coils

I had this same problem many and many of times, it sucks I know, but every-time for me on cop8 that has oil in there as well it throws off a odd code for some reason.

ok example: car would tell me 4 was bad when it was really 8, but I saw 8 a while back before I started changing coils so I replaced 8 and 4 hasnt miss fired since.

ok my thoughts on why from my experience,

Coils 4-8 have oil, and I haven't fixed it and I now leave the covers off for 2 years as a test and have not gone through as many coils. My take is moister, oil is getting hot and then cold, under covers it creates condensation, well if you leave covers off the oil can evap and it wont drain and smell running down the engine.

That has been working for me though as I don't plan on having this car much longer "2002 ls v8"

Another test you can do that has worked for me to make sure it isnt tricking me is whole the car is on take off the wire going to that cob and see if idle get worse or not.

you said internet on the cobs? good luck! huge mistake I made, cheap is NOT good, go to napa they have a cheaper one and a more expensive one that is new, get that one it is coated better.

Now you will also notice that you can drive the car for at least 1/2 hour then start hitting hills and the car starts misfiring then you wake up and car is running good all of a sudden, well that tells you huge amounts of oil is going from cylinder 4-8 as it gets warm it moves easier. then the boot is now so swollen it is arcing on the side casing misfire to other coils also.

Also, get oil cover fixed, the reason this happens is because, the engine had more power than the cover design. but there is a fix for it I believe.

There are also wires under the Big black round cover green wire likes to rub on a bolt, make sure that is not grounding out. its the upper right cover i believe for the shocks or struts or whatever.

Check fuses EVERYWHERE especially in the trunk there is a few computer fuses back there and they blow easy and on both panels in the front driver and front side passenger, look carefully you may have to pull every fuse out.

Sorry if messy I just in a hurry good luck.

Awesome stuff here!! Thanks. What you said about the oil makes sense. When I pulled the COP on 8 to switch it with 5, both were dry though. Although there was plenty of oil in COP 2 and 3. I mopped that up with some paper towels yesterday. I will have to check 4,6,7 tonight.
 
Awesome stuff here!! Thanks. What you said about the oil makes sense. When I pulled the COP on 8 to switch it with 5, both were dry though. Although there was plenty of oil in COP 2 and 3. I mopped that up with some paper towels yesterday. I will have to check 4,6,7 tonight.

I found a turkey baster with a hose on it, works and letting the rest of the oil just go to the cylinder..... I also refuse to top off my oil :) i don't recommend that but it does help the problem.
 
Awesome stuff here!! Thanks. What you said about the oil makes sense. When I pulled the COP on 8 to switch it with 5, both were dry though. Although there was plenty of oil in COP 2 and 3. I mopped that up with some paper towels yesterday. I will have to check 4,6,7 tonight.

Question, I just remembered something also, when you park your car for long periods of time is it flat or is it more pointed downward or upward.

for me what happens when I park its elevated down so 8 fills up from 5 ,6, 7 so 5 will have little to no oil and 6 more and so on. if you park for days in reverse (like back in) the oil will move the other way and fill up 5 more. but also could happen on 1-4 with same situation.

My point here is direction of parked is where more swelling will be, swap boots out. it may save you a coil. if you do take coils out look to see if the clip on the bottom side of the coil going to the long spring is brown/black if it is it is getting flooded with oil and is getting physically inside the supposed sealed coil.

And you must pull spark plugs, and clean them, they will be sopping with oil.
 
Can I point something out. Your profile says that you have been a member since 2005. Since then you have made only 3 posts, all of which have been on this thread to try to help out a guy that you don't even know. In my opinion that is really cool and I appreciate it.
I will have the laptop on my LS's roof as I try all of the things everyone has suggested.

Typically my car is parked pretty level. I checked the coils and it looks like the oil hasn't made it up the boot (thank God) so hopefully there is still a couple salvageable ones in there. I ordered the VCG kit this morning. This car is my primary source of transportation so I try to stay on top of things.

Thanks again for all the help!!
 
Can I point something out. Your profile says that you have been a member since 2005. Since then you have made only 3 posts, all of which have been on this thread to try to help out a guy you don't even know. That is really cool!! I appreciate it, and will have the laptop on my LS's roof as I try all of the things everyone has suggested.

Typically my car is parked pretty level. I checked the coils and it looks like the oil hasn't made it up the boot (thank God) so hopefully there is still a couple salvageable ones in there. I ordered the VCG kit this morning. This car is my primary source of transportation so I try to stay on top of things.

Thanks again for all the help!!

Your welcome, ya I stopped by because I was looking to see if I was the only one upset with windows! LOL, I currently have busted passenger and now driver side front window regulators and I ordered new ones to replace them, so I have that to deal with, last Friday I had to crawl out the car because the stupid door handle broke for the second time in a ROW ugh!

I also have to replace my clock spring now because now the horn just started to only work once and a while, followed by first airbag code then controls for volume, then horn will start to go like it is, well next is blinkers etc,

I don't usually post anything because I usually just figure it out.
So I was digging saw you were prolly pulling your hair out and figured I would lend a hand is all. Your very welcome.

My advice is drive the car around with tools and just see how the car acts every-time you change something, then pull over into parking lot play some more, keep notes, it will end up like a map, but it does work fantastic.

But make sure you remember everytime you reset the code car relearns your driving.

Last Huge piece of advice I can give you wont notice a cob going nor will the car until mostly driving around 50 when it kicks in low rpm and high overdrive gear, when you feel car shaking you still have a coil going bad, but it will not start flashing unless you make it shake like that (for a bit). Highway is best place to test at 50-55 don't go faster you wont be able to feel it as good on the peddle :D
 
Can I point something out. Your profile says that you have been a member since 2005. Since then you have made only 3 posts, all of which have been on this thread to try to help out a guy that you don't even know. In my opinion that is really cool and I appreciate it.
I will have the laptop on my LS's roof as I try all of the things everyone has suggested.

Typically my car is parked pretty level. I checked the coils and it looks like the oil hasn't made it up the boot (thank God) so hopefully there is still a couple salvageable ones in there. I ordered the VCG kit this morning. This car is my primary source of transportation so I try to stay on top of things.

Thanks again for all the help!!

Sorry for all the mess of reply's, I also remembered one more trick I use. If you are not getting the code right away, I recommend someone in the car but, I have done this even though its dangerous.

Put the car in drive or reverse whatever you feel holds car from moving, as the car is on ebreak and I mean pull that thing hard, anyway while the car is on stress you can hear and feel more, go to the front of the car and give it just small jolts of throttle under the hood while its doing that pull a connector off the cob and see how bad runs compared to a different one.

This way you will be able to tell if a coil is week. (the one that's less to make the car stall more is most likely it) listen carefully to spit and sputter. or listen at the tail pipe if the left tail pipe seems to spit more than the left you just narrowed it down to what row of coils is the issue.
 
OK here is the update everyone should know about. I switched the #8 COP to the #5 location, cleared the codes and drove it home. About 10 minutes after getting on the road I got a code that the #5 cyl is mis-firing P0305 and no P035X codes. Ok so what have we learned in this thread?

If you get multiple P035X codes look for the P030X code that is showing... that is most likely to be the problem coil. Apparently, if the coil creates enough radio noise to cause the PCM to become confused and start throwing the P035X codes.

Thank you to everyone who helped with this one. I hope that having documented this will someday help someone else.
 
OK here is the update everyone should know about. I switched the #8 COP to the #5 location, cleared the codes and drove it home. About 10 minutes after getting on the road I got a code that the #5 cyl is mis-firing P0305 and no P035X codes. Ok so what have we learned in this thread?

If you get multiple P035X codes look for the P030X code that is showing... that is most likely to be the problem coil. Apparently, if the coil creates enough radio noise to cause the PCM to become confused and start throwing the P035X codes.

Thank you to everyone who helped with this one. I hope that having documented this will someday help someone else.


"Apparently, if the coil creates enough radio noise to cause the PCM to become confused and start throwing the P035X codes."

Exactly what I was trying to say but couldn't put it as blunt, Awesome bro! Glad you got it! now just replace that #5 and you will be fast again! another Tip for the day, Autozone or Advanced Auto has a lifetime warranty on the coils! :D
 

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