Question(s) about my transmission

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blk96LSC

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Hey guys.. couple of questions about my '96..

And I've been doing some research..so I'm not ignorant about the typical problems/quirks of the car..


As far as I know, the car is totally stock.. 73k on the odo..


When i'm getting on it pretty hard, going from 1st-2nd, the car jerks really hard...it almost makes me expect a 2nd gear scratch..but doesnt.

I've driven a ton of quick AOD's before, but never felt anything that feels like that.

Question one being, is this normal behavior for a stock tranny?

Question 2 being, if my shifts from 1-2 are jerky, and 2-3 are too long (and soft), what would you guys suggest? To my knowledge it doesnt have mercon V, which is planned.

Am I going to have to change accumulator pistons?

How about doing a JMOD?

(which brings me to question 3..)

I'm relatively young with a decent understanding of how to do maintenence.. but I'm not claiming years of experience under my belt. What kind of difficulty level/time frame are we looking at on the jmod, and how noticeable is the difference? (daily, and e.t./perf.)



Sorry the thread is so long, but I'm really anxious to get this thing really moving! :D


Thanks in advance for replies!

--mike.
 
Question one being, is this normal behavior for a stock tranny?
Click to expand...

For a pre-98 4R, it's typical.

When i'm getting on it pretty hard, going from 1st-2nd, the car jerks really hard...it almost makes me expect a 2nd gear scratch..but doesnt
Click to expand...

Replace the 1-2 accumulator piston and springs:

F7AZ-7F251-AA updated 1-2 accumulator piston.
F75Z-7F284-AA upper/top (light blue) spring.
F7AZ-7F284-BA lower/bottom (purple) spring.
F4AZ-7F247-A 1&2 cover & seal.

Question 2 being, if my shifts from 1-2 are jerky, and 2-3 are too long (and soft), what would you guys suggest? To my knowledge it doesnt have mercon V, which is planned.
Click to expand...

96+ all have Mercon V from the factory. The long 2-3 may mean the forward clutch is on its way out.Try changing the 1-2 and 2-3 pistons, J-mod it, and add a tranny cooler first.

If you have a few dollars to spare, get a 2001+ Mustang GT 4R70W transmission and install it. They are stronger overall, and if you know how to baragin at a junkyard, it's the best deal. The pre-1998 4R's are terrible. It's never a question of if they go out, but when they will go out. You can baby it, change the oil all you want, but it is going to die. Mine died even after maintenance and less than 100,000 miles on the clock. I never beat the car at all. I was less than pleased...

I'm relatively young with a decent understanding of how to do maintenence.. but I'm not claiming years of experience under my belt. What kind of difficulty level/time frame are we looking at on the jmod, and how noticeable is the difference? (daily, and e.t./perf.)
Click to expand...

If you have to ask that question, take the car to a trusted mechanic. Never trust a dealer or AAMCO. You could do it yourself, but unless you have an experienced helper, a lift, and the right tools (c-clamp, wrneches, a lift, and a quality torque wrench- not a junk Wal-Mart one) I wouldn't attempt it...
 
Thanks a ton for the reply.

I'll get my dad (A seasoned 'vette driver) to look over a jmod article and give me the final ruling on if he'd help me or if I should have it done somewhere.

I had pretty much planned on replacing the 1-2 accumulator springs when I flushed the tranny.. didn't know if it was worth doing 2-3 as well..

And tranny cooler was also planned.

Jmod was basically the only thing I was unsure of.

Thanks for confirming!

Btw, your VII in your sig is -gorgeous-.

I'm typically not a fan of the model, but that car's looks are up there with the GN/t-type/GNX in black on black!

And your avatar cracks me up. I'm expecting my car to say that one of these days.. :)
 
96 and 97 do NOT have Merc V from the factory. A updated TSB was issued in 2004 to switch to Merc V - however mist dealers and such still go by the books which say Merc III for most 97s and earlier. It was a gradual change to Mercon V, it did not happen to all Ford products at once. If you switch, make sure to drain the Torque Convertor.

Here is a link to the updated TSB, could not locate original:
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories/docs/sn95_TSBs/06-14-04.pdf

The harsh 1-2 is defiantly a broken accumulator and pretty straight forward repair. The sluggish 3-4 is probably normal - its a Lincoln. I took mine out and have not had a problem at all.

The JMod is not a walk in the park for most, but if yo have any mechanical skill or have someone to help (dad) then do it, you will be happy. Make sure you buy new drill bits - wont cost much and you know the openings will be the right size. You should also have a pound-inch wrench to properly torque the valve body bolts, something that is pretty critical. Picking up some new vulcanized check balls would be a good idea to. The wear out and get smaller, eventually lodging themselves in the separator plate you will be modifying. They are cheap and the switch to Merc V will help make them last a long time. Do not go with steel.

The JMod will firm up your shifts and extend the life of the trans greatly.
 
Thanks.

Yeah, I've got a write-up on how to do the 1-2 repair, flush completely, and JMod...

I just wish I had more time in a day, ya know? :)

I'll get my dad to come up one weekend soon and help me with all of this...I really don't feel like taking it to a mechanic.. high costs, plus as long as I'm with someone competent, it'd be a good chance to learn the internal workings of the car.

I have part numbers on everything for the repair except the vulcanized check balls. (I know what they are, I just don't have a number.)

Do one of you guys have it?


And what should I not get in steel? The balls?
 
The steel balls can crack the valve body. Think BB gun. With a BB gun you can get plastic (rubber like) balls or steel. The steel can do some damage. Same thing in the valve body, the steel ones can cause damage when they are thrown around by the fluid.

Just go to a transmission shop, they usually always have some on hand or can get some for cheap. I picked up mine for free - the article will have a "map" of the valve body with check ball locations, from that you can see how many you need.
 
Hmm.

When ya put it like that, I'm missing some common sense today. :)

No prob. I'm sure I can get ahold of em.

Thanks again.
 
Ok, since i havnt posted on this forum i thought id try. I have a 93 and the tranni was replaced about 30k ago *ok so rebuilt* but. It shifts just fine under load.. But when just cruising normal load it seems like the car doesnt know what gear it wants to be in, its kind of weird. Any thoughts on this... I was going to make another post but it seems to fall under the same topic.
 
01PearlWhiteGT said:
Ok, since i havnt posted on this forum i thought id try. I have a 93 and the tranni was replaced about 30k ago *ok so rebuilt* but. It shifts just fine under load.. But when just cruising normal load it seems like the car doesnt know what gear it wants to be in, its kind of weird. Any thoughts on this... I was going to make another post but it seems to fall under the same topic.
Click to expand...

MLPS sensor. AKA transmission range sensor, neutral safety switch, etc. $25 part @ Vato Zone. 2 8mm bolts, undo the connector, reverse install. You'll find it on the driver's side of the tranny:

case_mlps.jpg
 
Hehe... ya, could be that or just be how the trans normally is. The trans LOVES to "hunt" around 25-35 MPh. Its not really hunting, its locking the torque convertor. Next time it happens, gently press the brake - it unlock the TC. If it goes away, thats what it is. Driving around with the Over Drive off helps a little, but it still locks.
 
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