question about replacement egr valve

M

moneypitLS

LVC Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2018
Messages
38
Reaction score
2
Location
St paul
I have a 2005 v8 ls and the egr valve went bad on it. I ordered a new motorcraft one from rock auto and the egr valve looks the same but has a different part number. The part number for the one I pulled off is 3w4e-9y456-a3e and the new one I ordered is 6r8e-9y456-a3a. Will the new one work or should I return it?
 
??? Did you get the last one... Because that part # isn't listed on RA.

RA shows your original part as Motorcraft CX2059 for $98.79.

The new part number you provide crosses to some brand name called Larath according to a Google search... and is made in China.

It also only seems to be popping up on Ebay and Chinese sites like Ali Express. You sure you ordered from RA?

I ran the part # through a couple online Ford parts sites and it comes up as invalid. At least for a 2005 LS v8. If you just ordered it... You might want to cancel.
 
The link you posted is the one I ordered and it came in a motorcraft box that said cx2059 on it
 
6R8Z-9D475-AA is the most current correct part number for the gen II V8 EGR valve. I just ordered and installed one a month or two ago. (working fine)
I'd stay away from aftermarket, as reports are that they don't work well with the LS.
It seems like these are failing for the same reason that the cooling system does. The plastic housing the vacuum sensors develops tiny cracks, letting air through.
 
That was the part number on the box. I took pics of the box and the egr valve itself. I called my local lincoln dealer earlier to ask about it and the tech said its normal for the number on the part to not match the number on the box but that doesnt seem right to me so I figured id consult the experts

egr box pic.jpg


egr pic.jpg
 
Yeah, I think that's the right one. I'll have to look at mine. I didn't really look at the numbers on the valve itself. I do remember that as the general appearance.
I think that where we may be getting confused is that the "6r8e-9y456-a3a" probably the part number for the solenoid valve that is one of at least three parts that make up the complete assembly, the sensor and the valve being the other two parts.
Other things, like the door latch assemblies are the same way.
 
When you change this... Be very careful you don't snap the nipple off the fuel pressure regulator when trying to loosen the nut on the pipe.

Also... Make sure the new valve came with the stainless gasket... Because you will most likely drop/loose the old one when pulling the EGR.

Be gentle with the vacuum lines because they get brittle with age and heat/cold cycles.
 
Funny you say that cause I did break the nipple off the fuel pressure sensor. Found a used one for 20 bucks though and everything’s working great. No more CEL just in time for summer. Now I just gotta fix the a/c and I’m good to go
 
Well I spoke too soon. The same code came back up (0p430) and the egr is what’s coming up as bad on the systems test on my code reader, pics below. I’m thinking I either got a bad egr valve or more likely my ecu is fried. I did drive it with a misfire, bad o2 sensor, and a bad egr valve for 30,000 miles but I’ve fixed all those issues. What are your thoughts? Also I can post pics of any freeze frame or live data you think might help diagnose it.

C81BF254-D20D-4364-9B16-6CF5D3658EFE.jpeg


4E4F1F9A-D0C3-4A01-B67F-74384A05A00E.jpeg
 
I am assuming a little dyslexia, then it would be code P0430. This code has nothing at all to do with the EGR.
 
Do I test that by applying vacuum with a hand pump with the other ends plugged? If so I just did that and they dont hold vacuum.
 
No... and maybe. If the code is actually p0430... That points to a bad catalytic converter. Probably from driving it for 30,000 miles with a bad misfire... Possibly caused by a improperly functioning EGR. Your o2 sensor might not have been bad after all... But instead telling you the truth.

You could try re plumbing the vacuum lines with regular rubber line and see if that helps. Just make sure you do one line at a time... and follow the color coding.

Either way... It might be too late for the converter.
 
After i replaced the o2 sensor it started reading at acceptable levels and my gas mileage doubled so maybe a combo of both. I just tried doing a back pressure test on the bank 2 cat the other day but the gauge broke in the process (adapter snapped while trying to screw it in) so i guess ill have to try that again. Also after doing some further digging with the code reader i saw a P1000 code but i couldnt really figure out if that has anything to do with it after some goole searches
 
When my EGR went bad a couple years ago... It threw code p0408.

Actually... The code was p0108. Thanks Dutch for the reminder
 
Last edited:
Well I guess ill be testing the exhaust back pressure and the egr lines on my next day off and update after that. I did pull the conduit off the lines to inspect for cracks after you mentioned that might be the problem and they looked fine but it doesnt hurt to try. Once again I really appreciate the help, hopefully i can get to the bottom of this
 
moneypitLS said:
... Also after doing some further digging with the code reader i saw a P1000 code but i couldnt really figure out if that has anything to do with it after some goole searches
Click to expand...

P1000 just means that it hasn't been long enough since the last time you cleared codes for it to know if everything is okay or not.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 120 (members: 0, guests: 120)
Back
Top