We really appreciate the very thorough approach you took to the issue you are having, as in the pictures and even the video.
If you werent sure, your upper control arms are shot and your lower ball joints I would bet are shot, due to the dried/cracked boots. My car did the same thing, however it had new Moog upper control arms, a new Moog RH control arm with moog ball joint, new calipers, new sway bar links, and was aligned. My car did the same thing, not as dramatically, but it would move the wheel like that. I finally decided to replace the LH side ball joint but had no reason to replace the whole control arm at the time. Long story short, if you are new here you will learn to ONLY buy MOOG/TRW parts for your front suspension, and that OE brand (ebay junk) is absolute garbage. Well the previous owner of my car had installed OE brand everything and the only thing that remained was that LH control arm. I went to install a new moog ball joint in the lower arm and found that the hole in the control arm was too large and the ball joint would not press in tightly. I went to the junkyard and got a TRW(stock) arm and pressed in my new joint. Once I installed the new arm assembly, the jerking was gone.
SO, I would start off with replacing your upper and lower ball joints, thats your first step in your situation. Another possiblity for your issue is the strut rod bushings are shot. That is the rod on each side of the car that is connected midway on your lower control arms and is attached to the subframe on each side. They adjust your caster and how forward or rearward the wheel sits in the wheelwell. If one of those bushings is worn out, the wheel will move rearward under braking and cause the car to dive to that side. So I would put your car back up and give those a look.
