Common causes for heater not working: 1. Tiny cracks in cooling system plastic parts that let air in. This air prevent circulation in the heater cores. 2. DCCV - both valves stuck closed. 3. Aux pump - Applies to V8s only. If you only get some heat at highway speeds, then probably your aux pump has failed. 4. Cooling system was not correctly bled after some work on it. 5. Someone put plugs in your heater hoses because they didn't want to replace a bad DCCV. 6. Your thermostat has failed open or is removed. Less common causes: 1. DATC is bad. 2. air discharge temperature sensors are bad. 3. Cold air bypass door is stuck in bypass (only applies to gen I)
New owner of a 2000 Lincoln LS Sport. 69K miles. Bout to do the front suspension. This whole thread is SUPER helpful. Will be doing radio replacement next and hopefully figure out which head lights I want. THANKS!!!!
thank you for actually looking around and reading the stickies. You have single handedly re-energized my faith in humanity!
Excellent! Pat on my back since, currently, humanity is in the crapper. LOL Any advice on removing the reservoir to get to the upper control arm bolt/nut on the driver side? Do I need to drain the whole system or can I just drain the reservoir and clamp off the hoses?
Easiest to just drain it from the radiator drain. Not all the coolant will come out anyway. Then be sure to refill and bleed by this procedure: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/
I did it without removing or loosening anything....... There's a thread here somewhere. Look for an early August date, IIRC....
Im not finding any direction on this. Maybe I'm not looking in the right place. I'll try google some more. :Bang
Apparently it was July..... Anyway, here's my LLSOC post...... I did have to remove shock assemblies. I removed some stuff on the passenger side to access the bolts easier but found I could have done it without. The hardest part about that bolt for me was loosening it. I had the car already on the stands and I had trouble getting enough leverage on the wrench to break (or is it brake ) it loose. I eventually grabbed my claw hammer, put it under the wrench and gave it a good yank. That broke it loose!! I have the cut to prove it!! Anyway, I found the driver's side to be easier than the passenger side. I was disappointed to find the bolt heads inside the shock pockets were useless.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RF4QTX9FRbo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psYO3O2LDOk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQ8J9z_i6-4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xwDQZOLIvF8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tib_CUmA8NU Btw, can anybody ID this guy?
It probably just takes an engine, engine wiring harness, PCM swap, and gauge cluster swap/re-marry, but the performance difference is disappointingly small
Transmission too. The V6 transmission housing won't bolt to the V8. Then, you would want to swap the instrument cluster and add the message center buttons. (Some more wiring harnesses to swap out...) If you really want to do it right, then some of the suspension parts (springs/shocks/sway bars) would get swapped too. A better bet would be to sell the V6 and buy a V8.
Thanks guys. I didn’t know if it’d be worth it. My v6 just has a cracked oil pan from a rock hitting it. No engine damage, just having a hard time finding a reasonably priced one. My buddy has a whole v8 ls for 350.00, but a truck backed into the drivers doors so he just totaled it. That’s what I was gonna swap. Not now though. Thanks for the help guys!
