PLEASE HELP before i throw more $$ away at the mechanic

papilos

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I know this is an age old question... coils coils and those DAMN coils.

Ok, I had my check engine light come on ran my U-Scan app and came up with these codes P0171, P0300, P0306, P0430, and P0301. picked up my ignition coils and was about to DYI until the intake manifold scared me away. Dropped it off at the mechanic 550 bucks later for labor the car is ready i pick up and only ONE block away from the mechanic the car idles rough shakes and the engine light is back on. I run my scanner again now it reads, P0171, P0174 and P0356. The mechanic claims its a faulty ignition coil but P0356 says ignition coil primcary/secondary circuit malfunction he took out the "bad coil that doesn't snap right into the wiring" and i exchanged it at advanced auto parts(lifetime warranty)

The car sounds like a truck! the intake is super loud when i accelerate but the car is so sluggish and acceleration was so much better before i had any work done. ANYONE PLEASE HELP before i drop the car off again tomorrow morning i've dropped more money then i wanted to and all i wanted was an honest mechanic.... its an 05 LS v6
 
after i did my searches i keep coming back to a bad PCM....feels like getting punched in the gut when all you do fix one problem and leave the shop with a new problem...
 
Any way. P0356 can indicate a cylinder misfire on #6. The other codes are all bad air fuel mixture codes, which are a result of the misfire.

Or...... Maybe a sensor connector wasn't reattached....
 
On purpose to ensure the next $500 return visit. Happens all day long everywhere.
... yeah, you need a new ... "insert costly item here" ... and it's a SPECIAL order part. We'll need a CC deposit!

This is why I own a tool box.
 
On purpose to ensure the next $500 return visit. Happens all day long everywhere.
... yeah, you need a new ... "insert costly item here" ... and it's a SPECIAL order part. We'll need a CC deposit!

This is why I own a tool box.

I HERE YOU!!!!! with the new job, kid its hard to make time... :(

The code stated circuit malfunction to me that sounds like wiring.... So i decided to pop my hood after i posted this and here's what i found.... (i did change all 6 and all 6 spark plugs too)

IMG_1320.jpgIMG_1668.jpgIMG_9633.jpg

So i'm wondering if any of these are used as ground for the ignition coils?

IMG_1320.jpg


IMG_1668.jpg


IMG_9633.jpg
 
I HERE YOU!!!!! with the new job, kid its hard to make time... :(

The code stated circuit malfunction to me that sounds like wiring.... So i decided to pop my hood after i posted this and here's what i found.... (i did change all 6 and all 6 spark plugs too)
ll
View attachment 828466894View attachment 828466895View attachment 828466896

So i'm wondering if any of these are used as ground for the ignition coils?

No just studs. Make sure no oil is in any spark plug well. Make sure the mechanic sprayed each spark plug COP boot with silicone or something like it so the boot slipped over the plug and the wire coil makes good contact with the plug. Check the connector to each coil to ensure it is snapped in place. Check all the bolts/studs/nuts to ensure they are tight, including the intake bolts. All are 8 or 10mm on these V6s Good luck!
 
Hey I'm new to this and tryin to figure out how to navigate around, I know what wrong with your car buddy, let me know when your around so I can explain
 
Hey I'm new to this and tryin to figure out how to navigate around, I know what wrong with your car buddy, let me know when your around so I can explain
 
Well I will explain, I've only talked to two other people so far and believe I was able to help them, lse4me and hite... if anybody thinks my informationis wrong please let me know, I'm always open to learning, and I should say I'm pretty sure I know what wrong with it car, I would like more details but that's ok from what I've seen so far ill go with that, this is the problem with those v6 motors and honestly its probably not your mechanics fault, because he doesn't know.. the jump teeth, im a mechanic myself and I see it all the time. Those motors will jump about two teeth on timing and no matter what u do it will not run right unless its timedcompany I work for buys auction cars too and every single time I see the v6 come Into the shop with those codes I already know what wrong, if the grounds were bad it wouldnt run at all besides how hard is it to put coils in...
 
I went to the computer, I can type correctly, like I was saying ignition coils are a very easy job on that car, if your unconvinced that I am right a there are two other things that you can do, it is very possible your mechanic made a little mistake as well, check your vacuum lines make sure they are in the right spots and no lines were broken or cracked during the job, one way to check for cracks, or leaks in either the intake or vacuum lines is a can of brake clean, start the motor and spray all vacuum lines and listen to a change in the motor, if you do here a change just pay attention to where you are spraying and seek a peek, do not spray directly on to a coil!!! You can spray it on the upper Plentom gasket,,,, that's what's it's really called, basically that's ur upper intake gasket to check for leaks too, just like before if you here a change in the motor you have found your leak... Spray right where the upper and lower intake meet, def pay attention to the erg valve for they are a problem area and lots of mechanics have been know to strip those bolts out, it's an aluminum intake and it's very easy to do,,, if you do that with no results basically your going to do what is called a cylinder contribution test, it's usually done with a scanner, this is how you do it with out one, with the engine running start unplugging coils one at a time, listen to changes in the motor, if you pull a clip and the motor does change that's your bad coil,,, you also do this with injectors too simply just unplug one at a time and listen for changes, if you do all these step and do not here one change in the way the motor was running, you can move on to sensors, I highly doubt it's a señor, air and fuel mixture senors are simple to, mass air flow, map, o2, , which as a general rule of thumb your mechanic was suppose to do this, if you go threw those steps with no results I will show you how to test sensors without a scanner, just keep in mind your going to trip a million codes doing this, but very possible you will find your problem, I highly highly doubt you need a PCM, the PCM is doing its job it's telling you you have a problem, which leads me to believe it's the most unknown common problem with those motors which the computer is unable to see, the PCM just sees the misfire it's doesn't see exactly why, which is why u are getting a bunch of different codes, if one coil goes bad the PCM will see, random misfires is because you camshaft sensor can't get a correct reading because you timing has jumped a tooth or two..
 
If you pull a coil wire and the motor DOESNT change of an injector and the motor DOESNT change,,, that's you problem, sorry for that
 
So its a timing issue? i've never heard this before

The gen I V8 is subject to timing jumps due to bad timing chain tensioners. This is the first that I've heard it suggested that the V6 has this problem.
 
i mean if this can be confirmed doesnt hurt to ask the mechanic to check the timing. What's different is the loudness of the intake when i accelerate. It sounds like a muscle car with a huge intake and no CAT. The car doesn't accelerate the way it did prior to having the coils replaced. Maybe he didn't connect the intake manifold correctly?
 
V8 jump timing because the pensioners go bad, which you will here before it actually jumps timing, and brake clean is sold at ur local parts store, just start spraying and pulling clips, u will find ur leak, and as for the sound check ur air filter box first, always try and keep it simple, and yes the v6 motors jump teeth too I just had one come into the shop, I love my Lincoln I truly do, but they are poorly engineered in some places, especially generation 2
 

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