Pissed!!! One Rant, One Question

[Fla02LS]

I have posted recently regarding my a/c issue. Not going to get into all over again, but i decided to check the refridgerant level when i got home from work. Here comes the rant.....

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE WHEEL OR PLASTIC FENDER LINER TO ACCESS THE LOW SIDE PORT ON A 2ND GEN LS !!!!!

I just spent about 30 minutes following this advice (didnt remove wheel) only to find the low side port is nowhere near the fender liner. After cursing profusely and using my own common sense i figured it out. There are two screws to loosen the plastic shielding underneath the car, by oil pan. From there you look up and BLAM!!! Dust Cap. The whole wheel/fender liner must be a 1st gen thing. I dont know how to word this so everyone in the future who cares to research this topic will be able to read this and NOT go thru the nonsense i just did. There, i feel better.

Now to my question, the refridgerant level was perfect so back to my theory of airflow. Where are the relays or fuses or anything related to the cooling fan? I have looked in the repair manual, on here, everywhere and cant find any diagram for the relays or fuses or anything. I know where the blocks are, trunk and hood by washer fluid fill, but there are no explainations as to what your looking at. Atleast my other cars have it listed in the cap that comes off.

I want to test the fan.... where are the relays for the fan, or does the LS not have relays. I have always known there to be two for the fan. I can find anything relating to the LS. Joegr, i got your input on the wiring but i guess i would have to start cutting wires and want that to be a last resort. Any info will be greatly appreciated! Thanks

 

[De-marko]

Sorry I can't help on your question, but I didn't realize you had to remove the fender liner and wheel on a Gen 1; I've never done that. Always had plenty of room if you clocked the wheel to the left.

 

[joegr]

No fan relay or relays on the LS. The fan is powered full time and electronics inside the fan control (based on what the PCM tells it to do) the fan speed.
If your fan runs at all, then the fuse is good. The fan power fuse is a 60 A in-line fuse. It's near the floor in the right A-pillar.

The control electronics fuse is F1.05 (15A) in the under hood fuse box.


I'm sorry, but you are probably looking at a shot compressor. Even worse would be a bad expansion valve. Either one would explain good static pressure with poor cooling.

 

[Fla02LS]

No fan relay or relays on the LS. The fan is powered full time and electronics inside the fan control (based on what the PCM tells it to do) the fan speed.
If your fan runs at all, then the fuse is good. The fan power fuse is a 60 A in-line fuse. It's near the floor in the right A-pillar.

The control electronics fuse is F1.05 (15A) in the under hood fuse box.


I'm sorry, but you are probably looking at a shot compressor. Even worse would be a bad expansion valve. Either one would explain good static pressure with poor cooling.

Ok, so no relays and the controls are within the fan, so if these "controls" are bad then the whole fan needs to be replaced? Example.... the PCM signal is telling it to speed up but it doesnt. Also the fan does work, but as i have stated i dont notice it cycle from a normal speed to a fast speed. Trying to figure if its a fan problem or a pcm problem not telling it what to do.

As far as compressor or expansion valve, your right, i dont want to hear that. But if there are problems with those components does it make sense that they 100% go away once i am going 40 mph and up? Thats whats got me so hung up is once i am driving its completely fine. I am sure if i took it anywhere they would want to charge me thousands to fix it, but how can a correct diagnoses of compressor or expansion valve even be made? Also to note i didnt see any oil leaking from compressor while i was under there.

 

[Fla02LS]

Sorry I can't help on your question, but I didn't realize you had to remove the fender liner and wheel on a Gen 1; I've never done that. Always had plenty of room if you clocked the wheel to the left.

Unless i am going crazy i know i have read multiple times that the wheel and fender liner had to be removed, i dont know why that was suggested for any year LS, but i know its mentioned.

I just put the car up on my ramps and it was easy going.

 

[joegr]

Ok, so no relays and the controls are within the fan, so if these "controls" are bad then the whole fan needs to be replaced? Example.... the PCM signal is telling it to speed up but it doesnt. Also the fan does work, but as i have stated i dont notice it cycle from a normal speed to a fast speed. Trying to figure if its a fan problem or a pcm problem not telling it what to do.

As far as compressor or expansion valve, your right, i dont want to hear that. But if there are problems with those components does it make sense that they 100% go away once i am going 40 mph and up? Thats whats got me so hung up is once i am driving its completely fine. I am sure if i took it anywhere they would want to charge me thousands to fix it, but how can a correct diagnoses of compressor or expansion valve even be made? Also to note i didnt see any oil leaking from compressor while i was under there.

Yes, that would point to a bad compressor or bad airflow. I really doubt that the fan is suspect. If the electronics fail, it won't run at all. If the control signal from the PCM fails, it will run at max speed as a fail safe. Of course, a check for dirt in the condenser or between the condenser and the radiator would be good. (Sorry, I don't recall if you have already done that.)

A check of the high side pressure while idling would show which direction your problem is in. Low high-side pressure at idle would indicate a compressor issue. High high-side pressure at idle (after running for several minutes) would indicate poor air-flow through the condenser.