PATS Flashing Error Code?

triniti

Active LVC Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2005
Messages
58
Reaction score
0
Location
Canton
I posted a couple of messages regarding my intermittent won't start issue that ultimately graduated to a won't start but when finally started won't stay running issue. I went out to see what the PATS light error code is but couldn't figure out where to find out what it means. I searched the forum and couldn't find anything so here i goes.

What I received is 1 flash, a pause and then 6 flashes. It repeated this a few times. I figured the code meant 16. If someone could let me know what this code means or where I could find out what it means before a trip to the dealer, I would be very thankful. BTW, I have a 2000 LS v6
 
This TSB (2000 LS v6 PATS TSB) is describing exactly what I'm experiencing and to my knowledge it has never been resolved. Is this TSB saying that this issue could be repaired on the house or has it been too long?

BTW, I still need to know what the PATS codes mean though like in my first post.

C'mon LS vets help a frat brother out.
 
Page 15 here lists some codes. I would guess that the 16 you're getting is actually "1600", meaning there's something wrong with the key.

Hope this helps. :Beer
 
I think you said in the earlier post that your key was cracked? Do you only have the one key?
 
I think you said in the earlier post that your key was cracked? Do you only have the one key?

Yes. When I bought the car I was only given one key. It wasn't until I started having this problem that I learned that there were supposed to be two keys.
 
Yes. When I bought the car I was only given one key. It wasn't until I started having this problem that I learned that there were supposed to be two keys.

Actually 3 keys....
2 Original and 1 Valet
 
I would certainly suspect the cracked key, problem is the only way to know for sure is to have 2 new keys programmed at the dealer, which is going to cost you about $150.
 
Is this TSB saying that this issue could be repaired on the house or has it been too long?
I haven't read that particular TSB, but, generally speaking, the service recommended in a TSB is only on the house if the car is under warranty. TSBs, Technical Service Bulletins, are not promises of service, just details of how to perform the described services. The TSB will normally say whether the service is covered beyond the warranty period or not.
 
I would certainly suspect the cracked key, problem is the only way to know for sure is to have 2 new keys programmed at the dealer, which is going to cost you about $150.

If it's not the cracked key then what else could it logically be so I can minimize my spending? I will replace the keys with new ones but if that doesn't resolve the issue I need to know where to look next for that particular code.
 
sounds like it is the key or the reciever in the col. In any event if the car will not run then it would have to be towed to a dealer or someone who has acess to a pats key/system programmer. The keys run about 30.00 each and they should be done in pairs so you can program more at any time. I always sugges to do three so when the first is lost you still have two to program another without the dealer.
 
sounds like it is the key or the reciever in the col. In any event if the car will not run then it would have to be towed to a dealer or someone who has acess to a pats key/system programmer. The keys run about 30.00 each and they should be done in pairs so you can program more at any time. I always sugges to do three so when the first is lost you still have two to program another without the dealer.

Just out of curiosity, where is the receiver in the column and what does that typically cost? I read somewhere that is attached to the ignition itself but they didn't mention the LS year. I also take it that the TSB has nothing to do with this start/dying issue?
 
Seems to me the questions you are asking, while interesting, will do nothing to keep you from visiting the dealer. It sounds like you need at least a new key (probably two), and the dealer is the only place to get those programmed. While you are there, he can do a diagnostic to see if there are other problems.
 
Thanx for all you guys help. I guess I was just trying to avoid the inevitable dealership trip. I'll post back when I know what the problem is and know that it has been fixed.
 
I finally figured out what the problem was about $700 later ($330 since my mom-in-law works at the dealership) at the dealership. I had to help them figure it out because they had no clue about what was causing the issue. All systems tested fine for over a day of testing at the dealership and they couldn't recreate the problem. All of the symptoms I specified in this thread and the related thread about the suspected driver's seat were in part true. The problem only happened to me and not my wife because I am a lot bigger than she is. The problem was caused by a faulty power cable behind the foot rest on the driver's side. When the apparatus behind it fails, the power cable touches the chassis and stops the engine instantly. That's why it wouldn't stay running when I was in the driver's seat. One automatically applies pressure to the foot rest without paying attention out of habit and that slight change in pressure on a failing unit kept killing the whole system, flipping PATS out. There was nothing at all wrong with PATS or its parts. The part was $40 but the labor was the killer while trying to locate and isolate the problem. At first they thought it was a faulty computer module or cable in the seat so they had to pull it out to make sure all was good. Then we finally figured the problem out.

I hope this helps somebody out in the future and saves them some dollars because this whole experience sucked but at the same time could have been a lot more expensive.
 
I hope this helps somebody out in the future and saves them some dollars because this whole experience sucked but at the same time could have been a lot more expensive.
Sweet. Congratulations on figuring it out!
 

Members online

Back
Top