Paint... Price?

[MatthewDavid]

I'm just kinda tryin to get a ball park estimate since my 97's all scratched up... I was wondering if it's cheaper to go flat paint then gloss... I really want to paint my car matte charcoal grey... I thought maybe it might be cheaper but then again it might not be... thanks

 

[unity]

Matte paint on a Mark? Maybe as an accent.

Either way, I bet its not much cheaper. The cost is in application, not materials. If you want a repaint and want cheap, then a black enamel may be best. One coat and enamel has a "build-in" clear coat so to speak. You get the basic look of a clear coat without applying one.

 

[slowmkviii]

to paint the out side of the car you would be looking at at least $2500 from a good shop and to have it done right
Most flat jobs I have seen that are done cheap you can tell easier than that they are cheep than a normal base clear

 

[k9t8m]

I agree. $2500+ for a decent job. A real good paint job will be $5k+.

 

[mafioso]

enamel is not the way to go.

Its fairly cheap to go back to the same orginal color should be ~1K if no body work is needed
~$2500 if light body work (door dings and a few hail pits) will more then cover it.

 

[rooster1969]

I'm just kinda tryin to get a ball park estimate since my 97's all scratched up... I was wondering if it's cheaper to go flat paint then gloss... I really want to paint my car matte charcoal grey... I thought maybe it might be cheaper but then again it might not be... thanks

That might look good.

 

[unity]

enamel is not the way to go.

Not according to the professionals that paint show cars.

 

[mafioso]

well Im not going to argue, but I have painted a car or two in my time. and there is a reason why everyone has left enamel in the dust.

 

[MatthewDavid]

Well if I"m gonna paint it I wanna it to be matte color... figured it would be neat... don't see it much... I was gonna... do Charcoal gray... I think with black tint with the chrome trim... and black rims with a chrome lip it should look real mean... and it'll be different... yeah I was figuring around 3000 grand... which kinda sucks cause that's more than I paid for the car... so now I gotta decide if I'm gonna keep it forever or not first... I really love it though... but life's life... can't always keep your favorite toys... sucks like that

 

[nsjuice]

Like someone said, it's mostly application.

I dont consider myself a pro or anything, but ive been doing body and paint for a good 5 years along with running my own shop with paint booth and all.

Flats are nice, I am actually considering it down the road for my mark. But this means ridding of all the shiny stuff to accommodate the look.

If you havn't already, you should consider HOT ROD FLAtz. They have an array of flat colors to choose from.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksflatz.aspx

Owning a Mark, I have to say.. It's a big car. Labor will get the best of your money.

-Sanding down
-Fixing Body imperfections (dings, deep scratches, etc)
-Primer
-Final coats
-My favorite in all this, Masking- Even more fun if you want the door/drunk jambs, under hood/trunk lid done. Which comes before Spraying of course.

With just the exteriors Good painters will get away with 1.5 quarts of Base-Coat paint (urethane). That's good for 2 good coats. I'd say 2.5 quarts of ClearCoat (with Flattener and catalyst), for a good 2-3 passes.

If you go with a Single stage paint, like the HotRod Flatz.. Stick to the CLearCoat guide above +.5 You're better of with buying their gallon.

If you were to bring it to me, exterior only. I'd say 1500, with no body work.. and 2k+ with. That would be your standard paint, not hot rod flatz. They're a bit pricier than you're everyday PPG and Dupont.

I've seen Vintage car done up with HotRod Flatz.... looks sweeet.


Good luck!

 

[hotrod markVIII]

if you going matte. its still a 2 stage.
face clear for example is 2 stage. your base which dries matte, and the clear which gives the gloss but more importantly the protection from scraches and uv.
to do a matte finish you cant just spray the base and leave it becaues it wont last. you have to do a clear coat with a additive that will make it dry to a matte finish. so if you hopping it will save some costs by using less product your actually wont

 

[MatthewDavid]

That's what I wanted to know... thanks!... I wanted to know if you still needed the extra protection... I figured you would... so I'm just gonna think if I want it I need 4K or better... just in case... thanks for the info... I was thinkin I might try to do the prep myself... I have some buddies back home that do body work and they said they'd help me out... but yeah thanks for the info

 

[kustomizingkid]

Paint work is the worst... you have to deal with all those doped out painters that have been inhaling every chemical known to man for their painting career...

 

[rooster1969]

Do as much of the prep work that you can possibly do and the price will be lower. I had a color change done on one of my trucks and it was just barely street legal for the drive to the body shop.

 

[lsc8]

doing your own prep work without knowing what you are doing is the fastest way to screw up a paint job. there isn't that much difference in doing it right and half way. if your spending the money do it all and do it right. it will pay off in the end.

 

[rooster1969]

All of the stuff I did turned out fine. The only issues I had were some of the body shops work. So it can also be said if you want it done right do it yourself. It`s all in the details.

 

[mafioso]

cheap and easy is Matrix 2K with a flatting agent we just painted a 62 Caddi flat black and it looks killer