P2110 throttle actuator control system

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jayyy_k

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I got a 05 ls v6 i got a check engine light, so i took it to the dealership and they replaced my throttle body for $600, but that still didnt do the trick,, i dont really have another 600 to guess with at the dealersip, so the engine light came back on and i pulled this code ( P2110- throttle actuator control system- limited forced rpm) if anybody ran into this same problem or knows what that could even be then please help, if you do then im pretty sure your gonna go to heaven lol thanks
 
jayyy_k said:
I got a 05 ls v6 i got a check engine light, so i took it to the dealership and they replaced my throttle body for $600, but that still didnt do the trick,,
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If the dealership tech diagnosed the issue then you need to take the car back and have them stand behind their repair, or refund your money.

IF YOU instructed them to change the throttle body, then. its not their fault
 
Alldata says that's an Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) problem. I would take it back and make them fix it right. HOWEVER, you may have needed a new TB, but I doubt it. we have a 2000 V6 with the same TB the factory installed.
 
jayyy_k said:
I got a 05 ls v6 i got a check engine light, so i took it to the dealership and they replaced my throttle body for $600, but that still didnt do the trick,, i dont really have another 600 to guess with at the dealersip, so the engine light came back on and i pulled this code ( P2110- throttle actuator control system- limited forced rpm) if anybody ran into this same problem or knows what that could even be then please help, if you do then im pretty sure your gonna go to heaven lol thanks
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95+% of the time, this is one or more $50 COPs (Coil-On-Plug) going bad. They cause electrical interference that causes the PCM to report false codes. On the V6, #3 is the coil most likely to cause this, but it can be others. I just helped a coworker with a V6 with the same complaint. It was the #2 coil. The dealership really should have known to check for this before replacing the throttle body, but it seems that a lot don't.
I would replace all of the coils and plugs, and then complain to Ford about this dealer. Maybe you can get some of your money back.
 
joegr said:
95+% of the time, this is one or more $50 COPs (Coil-On-Plug) going bad. They cause electrical interference that causes the PCM to report false codes.
The dealership really should have known to check for this before replacing the throttle body, but it seems that a lot don't.
.
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it's really sad that a small group of enthusiasts know more about a vehicle than the technicians that "it's their job" know about vehicles.

"todays techs" rely too heavily on what some computer tells them.

These tools were put in place to augment and assist techs with hard to diagnose issues, not to replace or substitute basic diagnostic skills.

It's a shame the dealers fleece the customer for un-needed repairs while service techs bask in the glory of their mis-diagnosis that they got paid for.

the original poster needs to print this thread, take it to the service manager and the tech that diagnosed the bad throttle body and have them both explain why a customer knows more about this issue than they do.

this is a common failure, seen by many owners, bad coils on the LS is widely known issue.
it should not require a "complaint from the customer" to have your vehicle serviced or repaired in a competent manner"....ESPECIALLY AT DEALER PRICE LEVEL!!!

WOT TEEEE FUK???
 
was headed home from getting my daughter and my 05 ls sport v8 went into limp mode, i finally made it home . freaking i killed it in the drive way and waited for my boys to get home to watch there sister while i hooked up my code scanner. got the p2110/p2107 actuator control module. however this was a pending code and the thing shows no codes while running. whats that all about. i have 120k on it . so ive been thru my share of the cars little issues. especially cop's , matter of fact i just replaced them all 3mths ago because #5 kept going out. did the plugs ,cop's , oil , etc. ive never had it go into limp mode , except when the thermos stat went out. is this gonna be a big problem? I dont mind it missing some. but limp mode on a major hwy with an infant in the thing is a whole other story. from what ive read this doesnt seem to common, however i would just like to ask if i should just replace the acuator control module to be safe. again its showing NO codes after i shut it down and restarted half hour later.
 
was headed home from getting my daughter and my 05 ls sport v8 went into limp mode, i finally made it home . freaking i killed it in the drive way and waited for my boys to get home to watch there sister while i hooked up my code scanner. got the p2110/p2107 actuator control module. however this was a pending code and the thing shows no codes while running. whats that all about. i have 120k on it . so ive been thru my share of the cars little issues. especially cop's , matter of fact i just replaced them all 3mths ago because #5 kept going out. did the plugs ,cop's , oil , etc. ive never had it go into limp mode , except when the thermos stat went out. is this gonna be a big problem? I dont mind it missing some. but limp mode on a major hwy with an infant in the thing is a whole other story. from what ive read this doesnt seem to common, however i would just like to ask if i should just replace the acuator control module to be safe. again its showing NO codes after i shut it down and restarted half hour later.
 
jayyy_k said:
I got a 05 ls v6 i got a check engine light, so i took it to the dealership and they replaced my throttle body for $600, but that still didnt do the trick,, i dont really have another 600 to guess with at the dealersip, so the engine light came back on and i pulled this code ( P2110- throttle actuator control system- limited forced rpm) if anybody ran into this same problem or knows what that could even be then please help, if you do then im pretty sure your gonna go to heaven lol thanks
Click to expand...

You should take it to a Lincoln dealer. Most Ford dealers have never worked on LS before. They will have to rediagnose it or you can, talk to the manager.
 
I'd check the gap on all of the new spark plugs. If one or more is over 1mm, that could be it. Also, all bets are off if you didn't use new Motorcraft coils.
You can replace the throttle body if you want to, but over 90% of the time that is just a waste of money replacing a perfectly good part.

Also, everyone keeps thinking that two very different failure modes are the same thing. They are not.

Fail safe cooling: Kicks in when you let the engine get way too hot (from some cooling system fault). It tries to reduce the damage being done to the engine by passing cool air through every cylinder every other time (no fuel is injected). Your V8 becomes a four cylinder, so it doesn't run very well and doesn't have much power.

ETC fail safe: Kicks in when some problem is detected with the electronic throttle control. This includes RFI from bad coils and plugs. It purposely limits engine power to just above idle. It does this by closing the throttle if it can, or cutting fuel if it can't.
 
ok, i got home today, no fail safe mode, just missing pretty bad, seems to get worse as you accelerate. if you keep it steady speed or its in park it seems to even out, if u rev its start missing again, hooked up the scan tool and now its showing po355 ignition coil E primary / secondary circuit. i replaced the # 5 COP and cleared code and it still doing the same thing. tried searching here and got nothing for po355 in the advanced search. looking online this was offered as suggestion:


Expert: Dan replied 3 years ago.
If that is the code your getting and you replaced the #5 coil the problem is either the wiring or the pcm. You can swap a coil with another cylinder just to make sure you did not get a defective coil and the next step is to check for shorts, connector conditions, or high resistance in the wiring. Here is a wire diagram, let me know if you have questions. Thanks

P0355 Ignition COP 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction - With Automatic Transmission
Possible Causes Setting Conditions
Ignition START/RUN circuit is open or shorted to ground
Ignition COP connector is damaged (check pins for damage, and for moisture)
Ignition COP driver control circuit open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage
Ignition COP has failed
PCM has failed


i have checked for cracked or pinched wires from the COP's on the drivers side bank where i changed the # 5 coil. all looks clean and no bare or cracked wires, if its the PCM does anyone know what that would run? or how to track down Ignition COP driver control circuit open, shorted to ground or shorted to voltage. im at a loss. any help would be appreciated.
 
Just to be certain here, #5 is at the front (radiator) of the engine on the driver's side.
It's down to tracing the wiring all the way from there to the PCM (passenger side behind glove box). Also, verify the connectors are good (coil end and PCM end).

PCMs are expensive and you need a really good scan tool, a dealer, or a locksmith with one to pair (marry) the new PCM to your PATS module and keys. You must have at least two keys to be able to do this. The car will not start until you do this. While used PCMs are cheaper than new ones, they may have problems like you are having.
 
yes, #5 front driver side, the engine is very clean and inside the covers the connectors look new, and i replaced 5 and when didnt work i swapped coils and still same code. i look very carefully at the wiring to all cops on that side, i will try to find the pcm and check connections there. i watched a video on utube lincoln ls pcm , or similar. but he did not show where to it was just the old one he replaced saying that it shorted thru the pcm do to it not being grounded well. where would you check the main ground for the pcm, where does it ground to , or is it grounded thru bolts to the body?
 
Grounded through the case (bolts to the body) as well as to wires in the harness that go to "clean" ground points.
Don't just look at the wires at the coils and at the PCM. Trace the wiring all the way from the #5 coil to the PCM. Look at every inch of it. Doing this, you can't miss finding the PCM. Not doing this is to miss the most likely spot that the wire is broken at. (Hint, it's at the firewall end of the bank one coil cover, where it may have been pinched by the cover.) Even so, check the whole wire. Feel the wire all along. It may be broken inside even if the insulation is intact.
 
oh, sorry just wanted to thank you for any help given, it is very much appreciated. again ive have my share of issues, rear window track replaced under warranty, the climate control replaced, warranty, stop counting cop's under warranty, and more after, still have the door open light, intermittent, mostly driver rear some passenger rear, never either front doors. im starting to wonder if there isnt a main ground i need to check, however ive never heard of one in all the web searches ive done. again thank you i will check the pcm behind glove box.
 
awsome, i will have to wait till this weekend, in texas gonna be cold and wet. gotta love it, but i will do what u recommend, sounds like a solid start instead of trusting the dealer. i did check where u are talking about where the wires exit the back of the valve cover and they run thru some sort of rubber or silicone. i will dbl check. this is why is joined so hard to look thru all those posts and never quite finding what u need.. MUCH THANKS..
 
The door ajar messages are most likely due to dirty switch contacts or mechanical issues with those door latches.
The COPs are a design issue are are a common LS problem.
The window regulators are also a common issue (not just with the LS, but with many cars, my BMW uses almost exactly the same regulators with the same breaking problems.)

There's really no "main" ground, unless you count the battery ground cable or the engine ground strap. There are lots of little grounds that are very important. You haven't said anything to suggest a problem with this though.

Either the wire from the #5 plug is broken somewhere internally, or your PCM is bad. The wire is much much cheaper and easier to deal with. Trace it the whole way, sliding you fingers along the wire to feel for internal breaks. Then check continuity (with a meter) between the pin at the PCM and the #5 coil connector. Also verify that the power wire to the coil connector is good (this is the one in common with the other coils). Lastly check (with a meter) for shorts to ground or power on the #5 coil wire (PCM must be unplugged while doing this).
 
IMAG0146.jpgonly pic, yes it does snow in texas sometimes..

IMAG0146.jpg
 
i plan to do all of your suggestions i figure the PCM will run about $1500 in up and running. ill spend my time this weekend on it, cant make the deer lease.
 
wish i could take off fri, but i only have two days of vac left saving for xmas with the kids. im all ready to climb under the hood with you suggestions, can do the continuity and pwr test , not sure about the checking for short to gnd. any suggestions how to do that?
 
crdutton69 said:
...not sure about the checking for short to gnd. any suggestions how to do that?
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Unplug the coil. Unplug the PCM. Use your meter on the ohms/resistance/continuity setting. One probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on ground. Then one probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on the #5 common (power) wire.
 
joegr said:
Unplug the coil. Unplug the PCM. Use your meter on the ohms/resistance/continuity setting. One probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on ground. Then one probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on the #5 common (power) wire.
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I was looking at the wiring from each side of the valve covers, they are ( except for at the back of covers) inside looks like a harness, would i have to pull them out of that heat shielding ( assuming) and trace for breaks? and was just looking for the pcm, u say i can access from pass side (inside car ) behind the glove box? I did pull the spark plug on that side, i gapped the plugs myself with a real feeler gauge, i know they are correct cant remember the gap i got it from this site. i switched it and the cop to # 6 and on the # 5 connecter i pulled the little connection pins dwn just a little to make sure they are getting good connection. started it up and drove around the block and seems to be fine. i would still like to find and check the pcm for ground connections
 
joegr said:
Unplug the coil. Unplug the PCM. Use your meter on the ohms/resistance/continuity setting. One probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on ground. Then one probe on the #5 coil wire and the other on the #5 common (power) wire.
Click to expand...

well it was fine for a day, back to square one, just dont under stand why it smooths out an then just start missing, i changed the # 4 just in case of the rf interference. i looked for where the wires go to the firewall, goes under where the cabin filter is. i will take out the glove box in the morning and make sure its connected well.
i did want to ask, if i disconnect the pcm, will it be ok to just plug back in? i wont have to have it flashed will i? spoke to a friend that used to work for ford, said pcm doesnt go bad unless something happened, evidently running one with a bad coil can damage if left in to long. he couldnt remember if it was ok to unplug or not.

i havent mustard up the courage to take apart the wire harness behind engine, was thinking of checking continuity from the coil to the #5 to see if theres a issue from the coil to where it starts dwn under the cabin filter. i havent seen where it actually goes in the car. seems i need to climb under to see. or remove the fender well.
 
I don't remember...... Which coils are you using? If they aren't Motorcraft or Visteon chances are, IMHO, you're chasing bad/marginal coils. Additionally, if you are running Accel coils did you reverse the polarity?
 
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