Overheating problems---please help

W

WillsLincoln

LVC Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Washington
Hello everyone,

I have a 2000 Lincoln Ls that i purchased about 6 months ago. I bought it from a coworker of mine. He originally bought the car with a bad engine due to timing chain tensioner failure. He replaced the engine with one from a local salvage yard out of a 2002 lincoln ls with about 68,000 miles on it.

Heres my issue:

While driving to the gas station the other day I noticed my cooling fan running abnormally higher than usual, i pulled over, popped the hood and coolant had blown the cap completely off the degas bottle. (I also noted that the engine temperature gage was only slightly above normal) I let the engine cool and drove the car to autozone (only a mile away) to get some coolant. I drove back home and the same incident happened again. So i bled the system of air (according to a software program that my coworker gave to me when i purchased the car that i believe is very similiar to what dealership mechanics use) I then waited and watched as the coolant began to rise in the degas bottle, the hydraulic cooling fan began running faster and the same thing keeps happening. Note: i dont have any heat also, but i pulled the heater hoses off and flushed the heater core with no problem, but i noticed that the outlet hose of the heater core and the two inlet hoses arent the same temp during normal operation. (air still in system maybe) and ive even changed the thermostat.


NOTE: The radiator hoses arent the same temperature during operation. The lower hose is colder than the upper.

The only thing I can think of is the water pump. There is a slight erratic noise coming from the pump. I dont know of anything else it could be besides the auxillary coolant pump or the coolant control valve. ????


I would post the diagram from the software I am using but I dont know how to post a picture up here thats note associated with a hyperlink
 
If your cap really blew off, then the degas bottle and/or the cap are bad at the least. You'll need to fix that so that the system can pressurize. It won't work correctly if it can't pressurize.

It could also be that the person you bought it from knew that some or all of the plastic cooling system parts were cracked, so you left the degas cap very loose so that you wouldn't see coolant going everywhere when it warmed up.
 
covered and covered again

this is a common issue with this car. its been covered over and over again for the last decade, you will find plenty of details on the fixes. As Joegr said, first replace degas bottle bleed coolant the search for more leaks, its rare to hear about a water pump failure. Most common is air in system from cracks in degas bottle, then crossover plastic pipes splitting, leaks, leaks! your coolant is getting hot, either not circulating, or fan not cooling radiator. easy stuff first, degas bottle, rebleed, while you're doing this, go ahead and flush the system, open radiator plug on bottom of radiator flush out system. always while engine is cold!
 
I replaced the cap, and thermostat, and tried bleeding the system, still the same thing. damn degas bottle is less than six months old. wouldnt a quick check to see if the system is under pressure by just barely breaking the cap loose? and hear a 'hissing" sound?
 
I have noticed that the cap doesnt have must resistance when i screw it down on the bottle. is it suppose to click when fully tightened?
 
WillsLincoln said:
I have noticed that the cap doesnt have must resistance when i screw it down on the bottle. is it suppose to click when fully tightened?
Click to expand...

There seem to be issues with the aftermarket degas bottle where the cap screws on. It should come to a hard stop (and turn no more) when you tighten it.
 
joegr said:
There seem to be issues with the aftermarket degas bottle where the cap screws on. It should come to a hard stop (and turn no more) when you tighten it.
Click to expand...

It comes to a hard stop, (with the new cap) but a slight turn more and the cap pops off.

The cap that came with the aftermarket bottle used to "click" into place kinda of like certain gas caps on certain model cars.
 
WillsLincoln said:
It comes to a hard stop, (with the new cap) but a slight turn more and the cap pops off.

The cap that came with the aftermarket bottle used to "click" into place kinda of like certain gas caps on certain model cars.
Click to expand...

It's not a hard stop if you can still give it a "slight turn more."
To me, a hard stop means you can't turn it anymore at all.
 
I had this issue before, first the cap for the ls is a pressure release on it the aftermarket ones don't have that so the cap blows of, this happened to.me on 2 different doorman brand degas bottles, I got the factory one with a new cap and issue was gone, if you order it from www.teamford.com you can get it delivered for less than $150. The aftermarket bottles either have the symptoms that you have or crack in a couple of months.
 
I replaced the bottle and cap. Checked the water pump and it was fine. I pulled the coolant boost pump and applied power to it and nothing...gave it a tap with a hammer and it came on the turned off...i believe this may have been the issue and blocking coolant flow.
 
chocolat1701 said:
The no heat issue that's most likely your dccv you can get that from www.rockauto.com its a.pain to.do.but you can do it yourself
Click to expand...


DCCV=dual coolant control valve? is there a way to check its operation after i remove it from the car? I removed the boost pump and tested it with a 12 volt source, and it wouldnt come on unless i tapped on it, so i know its bad but i figured i would check the valve for operation . is this possible? even tho the pump was working intermeadialty i figured i would have some heat...but the outlet hose wasnt hot at all
 
WillsLincoln said:
DCCV=dual coolant control valve? is there a way to check its operation after i remove it from the car? I removed the boost pump and tested it with a 12 volt source, and it wouldnt come on unless i tapped on it, so i know its bad but i figured i would check the valve for operation . is this possible? even tho the pump was working intermeadialty i figured i would have some heat...but the outlet hose wasnt hot at all
Click to expand...

With no power applied, the valves should be open. When you apply power to one side, it should close.
 
havnt removed the dccv yet...i removed the pump, which is bad, but have yet to find a new one...anyone know where i can get one from?
 
oddball said:
I have one on my bench I can rebuild. ;)
Click to expand...


after doing a little research i ordered brushes to rebuild mine. i took my pump apart and discovered my the motor's brushes were in dire need of replacing. I'm just waiting on my brushes now.

I'm still not so sure as to why the car overheated in the first place. I replaced the damaged bottle a couple days ago and hopefully when i get this pump back in and bled the system of air I wont have to worry about it overheating. It just stumps me that the bottle that was in the car was only a few months old, why would the coolant rise and push the cap off? while at the same time the temp gauge reads normal and the cooling fan has kicked into high. ???
 
chocolat1701 said:
I had this issue before, first the cap for the ls is a pressure release on it the aftermarket ones don't have that so the cap blows of, this happened to.me on 2 different doorman brand degas bottles, I got the factory one with a new cap and issue was gone, if you order it from www.teamford.com you can get it delivered for less than $150. The aftermarket bottles either have the symptoms that you have or crack in a couple of months.
Click to expand...


Damn Ive done installed the same aftermarket bottle again. You think if I change the cap she might hold up?
 
WillsLincoln said:
after doing a little research i ordered brushes to rebuild mine. i took my pump apart and discovered my the motor's brushes were in dire need of replacing. I'm just waiting on my brushes now.

I'm still not so sure as to why the car overheated in the first place. I replaced the damaged bottle a couple days ago and hopefully when i get this pump back in and bled the system of air I wont have to worry about it overheating. It just stumps me that the bottle that was in the car was only a few months old, why would the coolant rise and push the cap off? while at the same time the temp gauge reads normal and the cooling fan has kicked into high. ???
Click to expand...

The cooling system has to pressurize to about 15 PSI to work correctly. 15 PSI may not sound like much, but it is. If the bottle you had couldn't hold the cap on at 15 PSI, then there's your problem.
 
ok guys im STILL fighting this problem and am on the verge of taking it to the dealership....its really pissing me off....


I ordered brushes for the auxillary coolant pump and just as if my luck couldnt get any worse at this point they sent me one brush the wrong size so i got one brush soldered in and the second replacement brush should be here tomorrow...

i re-installed the auxillary pump and bled the system (figured i could still use the car without the pump since it only boosts coolant to the heater core)

The temp gauge reads normal, but the fan starts spinning faster and coolant rises to the top of the NEW degas bottle and pushes itself out AGAIN...i turn the car off and can hear the coolant system pulling coolant back out of the bottle...

WHAT THE HELL KEEPS MAKING MY COOLANT LEVEL RISE??????!!!!!
 
WillsLincoln said:
...

WHAT THE HELL KEEPS MAKING MY COOLANT LEVEL RISE??????!!!!!
Click to expand...

Your engine overheating. Note that the temperature gauge reads coolant temperature at one location. If there is air in the system, parts of the engine will overheat and what coolant is there will boil. This will also happen if the water pump impeller is shot.

You're over your head. Go to the dealer...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 218 (members: 0, guests: 218)
Back
Top