Overheat question

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greenlinc

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Ok so the other day I got the famous low coolant message. I checked when the engine was cold and the overflow tank was low. After I searched today about thermostat I see that me adding anti freeze to the overflow tank is a no-no. That was a week ago. Today on the way home from work there is about 4 inches on the road so I am spinning like crazy the temp just shoots up from "A" up to "O" before I got home. Would this be a delayed reaction stirring up air in the system, a result of me adding to the overflow tank?
 
yea you probably still have air in the system
Remove the plug in the coolant crossover tube {in front of the alternator) and fill it up when the motor is cold.
The double check it a few times when the motor is cold, top off as needed.
 
When you do this make sure car is on level ground. This way top of reservoir will be higher than cross over tube fill hole.

When you fill it at the cross over pipe be sure to remove cap from reservoir first. Then add fluid at cross over until level in reservoir is between cold level mark and full line. Put cap back on reservoir and top off at cross over. Leave cross over cap off, start car, set heater control to 90, set to floor, and full blow on fan.

It'll take a hour or so of burping air, adding fluid. Keep an eye on temp gauge and listen for fan operation.

Once done, let it sit over night and check reservoir before starting. Top off as needed.
 
Great, did the "BURPING" got the coolant right, but guess what......I notice the fan doesn't work! Oh well Im searching on that now, hopefully its an easy fix. Car heats up when idling up to the "M", then when you drive she goes back to "L" . Hopefully it wont hurt anything to drive with no fan for a couple days.
 
If you can keep your speeds above 40 the fan working or not is of no consequence (well..sorta)

Chances are your fan issue is either the fan motor itself... or the more common issue of a fried relay in the VCRM (variable load relay module)

Usually when the relay fries in the VCRM it is because a old worn out fan motor is drawing too much current.
Becareful, the mark 8 fan is a very very high amp draw fan if you try to "ReWAr" it.

If you have a blown VCRM due to a bad fan motor, if you replace the VCRM it will probably blow again.

You can get a used fan from a junkyard or from a member here on the site.
You can get a replacement fan motor from Autozone for 90ish dollars..
this requires drilling rivets to get the old motor out and replacing those rivets with bolts when installing the new motor.

VCRM's can be expensive sometimes... I picked up a couple localled for 20.00 each..but be prepared to pay double that.

IF you decide to put a manual switch in there.. make sure you do your homework and dont just "rig it up".. the amp draw from that fan can easily cause a car fire.

Do not run a wire into the cabin and back to the fan without using a relay.
If you do, the wire will get hot enough to burn the carpet or anything else it touches.

Sorry for the novel, I hope some of it helps
 
Dont use your AC, Defrost, Heat or any setting in the climate control box other than "FLOOR" or "VENT".

ALL the other settings turn on the AC compressor which in turn turns on your non working cooling fan.

you dont want the AC compressor adding any heat to the equation.. if your fan isn't working.

If you need heat.. use "floor or vent"..
If you absolutely MUST use defrost.. ONLY use it when traveling down the open road at 40 or above.

That MIGHT allow you to limp this thing along for a day or two.

With that said... My girlfriends mom blew the headgaskets on my girlfriends mark 8 in a 12 mile trip. the fan failed.. she drove it and smoked the headgaskets.
 
Well I found the fuse under the hood (40a) was blown. I put a new one in and the fan works, but something blew the fuse. Maybe some wet snow got in there???
 
hmm interesting...

one in a 100 chance of it being a blown fuse.

you need to go buy a lottery ticket, unless you've already used up all your luck..HURRY
 
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