Opinions: Low-Buck Stereo Plan

[Turboguy]

OK, so I have a 2000 LS8 with the base 4-speaker stereo and 6-disc glovebox changer. Speakers aren't in great shape so I'm thinking about some very cheap ways to improve the stereo's sound.

I've got the following components left over from my Grand National in the garage somewhere that I'm considering installing:

NEW
5-channel Sony amp, wattage is around 35Wx4 and 120Wx1 RMS
2 Sony 6x9s, around 50W RMS

USED
Kicker 120Wx1 RMS sub amp
10-inch un-amped SAS Bazooka


Proposed plan:

Put Sony 6x9s in rear deck holes, unhook rear door speakers
Buy a cheap but decent set of 6x8s (Alpine/Pioneer) for the front doors
Run new wiring for all speakers
Buy $25 Scosche SLC4 Four-channel Line Output Converter
Buy amp installation kit
Mount SLC4 and Amp in trunk
Mount Bazooka sideways in trunk, up by the seats
Rock the house

Questions:

Does any of this make sense or is this non A/V guy talking out his a@@?

Would the LOC connect in at the rear deck 6x9's speaker wires or somewhere else if I'm using an amp?

This SLC4 LOC says four channel so I'm guessing I'd need two if I want to only mount the five-channel amp?

How would bass response be with only a four-channel system running through around 35W RMS per channel if I didn't mount the Bazooka?

Where is a nice out of the way amp mounting location in the LS trunk so I can still have storage back there?

How would the amp turn-on and other wiring be run?

How do I access the factory deck's wiring to run new wires, from the back or pull it out?

Would this make for a decent sounding budget system in the LS?

I welcome all input...even douchey "use search, newbie!" comments.

Thanks!

 

[LS4me]

Many moons ago I upgraded my (then) 2000 stock base system. I replaced the cassette player with the in-dash CD changer from an '01 LS (non-Alpine). I added a Rockford-Fosgate 4X50 amp, upgraded door speakers and mounted a set of Pioneer 6X9s in the rear deck. I ran the wires from the back of the HU to the amp in the rear and back to the HU; Yea lots of wire! Had I do do it over, I would still have tapped into the wires at the back of the HU, but I would have used RCA adapters so I could run RCA cables instead of wires. I wan the wires under the console and under the rear seat into the trunk. I mounted the amp behind the trunk liner on the left. Pull the liner back and you will see a void between the fender and an inner brace. It isn't large, but the RF amp fits nicely. There is also enough air there to keep the amp ventilated. I used Infinity Reference 2-way speakers in the rear doors, Polk components in the front (I mounted the tweeters on the panel opposite the mirrors and the woofers in the stock location) and the aforementioned 4-way Pioneers in the rear deck. I get plenty of base, enough to vibrate the mirrors if I want to. I have the output on the amp turned almost all the way down and get plenty of volume and excellent clarity. Updated speakers (these are almost 10 years old) would probably sound even better, but it's now my daughter's car so she can pay for them if she wants to. Honestly, it still sounds excellent and I still ace my annually required hearing test.

Was that clear as mud?

 

[BlackLS06]

Good plan.

You have a lot of questons. I would just stop by a hole in the wall custom audio shop (not a best buy or car toys) and they should be able to hook you up with a clean install.

I would recommend a stronger amp, such as a 250w rms to a single sub in a ported box. The LOC i have is mounted in the trunk next to the factory amp but the wires are ran to front.

 

[Turboguy]

LS4me,

Thanks for the input. You said you ran wires from HU, to amp, then back to HU. Could you have done speaker wires out of amp straight to speakers or am I missing something? Were you happy with running the wires through the console? Did you consider running them along the kick panels on the side at all?

RCA adapters sound easier, as long as noise isn't an issue I may try that.

Black,

I am hoping to do this on my own but stopping by a good stereo shop for some tips is probably a good idea. Are you happy with your LOC from an adjustment/noise standpoint?

Oh...and I may be aging myself to say this...but I think my 250-plus-watt sub days are behind me 120W from the bazooka will be more than enough for me at this point! Thanks for the input.

 

[SlickLS]

Oh...and I may be aging myself to say this...but I think my 250-plus-watt sub days are behind me 120W from the bazooka will be more than enough for me at this point! Thanks for the input.

120 Watts is not a lot of power, but if that is what your speakers RMS calls for then it should be fine. I have my old factory alpine components if you would like to make me an offer on them. nothing wrong with them and they are a midrange and tweeter for each door. Running a system off the factory HU will not be as loud as if you ran it off an aftermarket HU. I have 1200 watts on my single sub alone. It's better to have too much power and dial it down than to under-power a speaker.

 

[LS4me]

LS4me,

Thanks for the input. You said you ran wires from HU, to amp, then back to HU. Could you have done speaker wires out of amp straight to speakers or am I missing something? Were you happy with running the wires through the console? Did you consider running them along the kick panels on the side at all?

RCA adapters sound easier, as long as noise isn't an issue I may try that.

I could have patched in at the speakers, but I didn't want to mess with running the wires through the door looms. For me it was easier to splice into the speaker wires at the back of the HU, lots of wire but doable. I also tapped into the rear door set of wires to run the deck speakers. There was plenty of room to run the wires through the console and it was a straighter shot to the trunk. The only thing is unless you add some type of connector you will need to leave enough extra wire to be able to pull out the HU when you're done. Had I not been a large hurry, I would have fabbed-up some type of quick connect. Back then I would have had to use individual wire connectors and mark what went where. You'll also need to run the wires behind the cross-brace behind the radio; otherwise they will be in the way of re-installing the HU.

Anything else?

 

[Lincoln Jealous]

Good plan.

I would recommend a stronger amp, such as a 250w

+1, 4x35 isnt much power, 4x35 is the lowest ive seen that comes out of a headunit

 

[Turboguy]

Ah, makes sense LS4me, thanks.

Jealous your post reminded me of another question I had: what is the rms rating per channel of the stock base headunit? Yeah, 35 watts rms isn't much per channel, but I was counting on it being a bit more than the factory stereo puts out. Am I wrong?

Thanks,

Turboguy