OLD MEMBER - New Account - Advice needed!!

That is such a rare stang, 84 GT 2.3 Turbo, very hard to find a factory 2.3T stang that isn't a SVO. I also have a 1973 Q Code 351cj Mach 1 mustang and a 1971 Torino 500 hard top. Brother has a 2014 challenger rt shaker, 64 comet caliente, and 88 GT hatch 5 speed car. Dad has a 1970, & 71 Mach 1 mustang and 89 thunderbird sc. almost all those are are projects though
 
The GT Turbo is a typical Ohio car, so I had no reservations about resto-modding it. The '88 T-Coupe, again it is not pristine and museums already have showpieces.
Among the other non-MKVIII projects I have are a 1965 Dodge Coronet 500 convertible, originally a 318/auto car but dad and I big-blocked it when the 318 started laying out smoke screens. That car needs to be finished, as it was sent to the body shop several years ago. I also have all of dads cars now (which includes two HEMI cars from 1966 and a 150" F.E.D to rebuild).
 
Hello,
I used to have an account on LVC. My username was TravisG32v. Made a new account. I need advice as to what I should do with my Pewter-Jade metallic 1997 base mark viii.

The situation: Some time ago my car started making excessive valve train noise from passenger side of engine. I pulled passenger valve cover and discovered both the Intake and Exhaust Camshafts have damage to the lobes. Cylinder head has very small amount of metal shaving sitting on head surface by camshafts on passenger side, upon further investigation I also discovered my primary chain is very loose where it is tensioned on passenger side, chain is still tight with no slop or "play" on driver side. Don't want to beat a dead horse but what is my best route to get the M8 back on the road?
Option #1 - Replace timing chain tensioners and passenger side camshafts with engine still in car and hope for the best.

Option #2 - Replace engine with used engine and hope used engine is healthy and problem free

Option #3 - Use cash I have saved up and buy a clean low mileage 97-98 LSC and swap my 4.10 gears, track lock, aluminum 1 pc driveshaft, and 2 1/2" exhaust w/ x pipe, and new front suspension off of my car and on to the new car, scrap my 97 and sell engine out of it to recooperate some of the purchase price for a new Mark 8.
Really want your guys input on this. Car is sitting with no intake manifold or passenger side valve cover on engine inside my shop out of the weather. I need to come up with a solution soon.
Bill Boats here, I live in Ohio and own a 96 Mark 8 with no rust all original paint. Being you live
 
Bill Boats here, I live in Ohio and own a 96 Mark 8 with no rust all original paint. Being you live in fla cars are driven lots of miles but do not rust. UI would have bought another Mark and got out from under that one I ahve seen low millage one on cars gru for under 2500 and for you that would been 1635 mmore. Then over time put the kooks and all the other col stuff back. You make a fresh start. Get a better car, and still wind up with the kooks, and all cool stuff.Only a total rebuild with the car would I do. Write back Bill boats
 
Bill - The engine is out of my car right now and at Ormondgt98's place right now getting rebuilt. It's getting new main and rod bearings, all new gaskets, ford racing oil pump and pick up, cobra Intake and Kooks installed, and I'm trying to negotiate a install of some 96-98 cobra Intake cams as well during the rebuild. He wants 300$ extra installed for the cobra cams. I might see if he will take my SHM stage 3 cams for the cobra cams installed and knock 150$ off of the rebuild price for them. Idk what will happen with that though, car might end up with factory m8 cams again. It IS getting IMRC deletes and my cobra intake is ported as well. Hoping for 300 rwhp on motor after rebuild. I'm brining Ormondgt98 parts today, I'll keep you posted with what happens with car. I already have over 1,500$ just in the rear end rebuild w/ 4.10s and mandrel bend 2 1/2" stainless exhaust on car so I decided to keep it.
 
Hello,
I used to have an account on LVC. My username was TravisG32v. Made a new account. I need advice as to what I should do with my Pewter-Jade metallic 1997 base mark viii.

The situation: Some time ago my car started making excessive valve train noise from passenger side of engine. I pulled passenger valve cover and discovered both the Intake and Exhaust Camshafts have damage to the lobes. Cylinder head has very small amount of metal shaving sitting on head surface by camshafts on passenger side, upon further investigation I also discovered my primary chain is very loose where it is tensioned on passenger side, chain is still tight with no slop or "play" on driver side. Don't want to beat a dead horse but what is my best route to get the M8 back on the road?
Option #1 - Replace timing chain tensioners and passenger side camshafts with engine still in car and hope for the best.

Option #2 - Replace engine with used engine and hope used engine is healthy and problem free

Option #3 - Use cash I have saved up and buy a clean low mileage 97-98 LSC and swap my 4.10 gears, track lock, aluminum 1 pc driveshaft, and 2 1/2" exhaust w/ x pipe, and new front suspension off of my car and on to the new car, scrap my 97 and sell engine out of it to recooperate some of the purchase price for a new Mark 8.
Really want your guys input on this. Car is sitting with no intake manifold or passenger side valve cover on engine inside my shop out of the weather. I need to come up with a solution soon.
I like choice 3. But its too late now
 
Hello,
I used to have an account on LVC. My username was TravisG32v. Made a new account. I need advice as to what I should do with my Pewter-Jade metallic 1997 base mark viii.

The situation: Some time ago my car started making excessive valve train noise from passenger side of engine. I pulled passenger valve cover and discovered both the Intake and Exhaust Camshafts have damage to the lobes. Cylinder head has very small amount of metal shaving sitting on head surface by camshafts on passenger side, upon further investigation I also discovered my primary chain is very loose where it is tensioned on passenger side, chain is still tight with no slop or "play" on driver side. Don't want to beat a dead horse but what is my best route to get the M8 back on the road?
Option #1 - Replace timing chain tensioners and passenger side camshafts with engine still in car and hope for the best.

Option #2 - Replace engine with used engine and hope used engine is healthy and problem free

Option #3 - Use cash I have saved up and buy a clean low mileage 97-98 LSC and swap my 4.10 gears, track lock, aluminum 1 pc driveshaft, and 2 1/2" exhaust w/ x pipe, and new front suspension off of my car and on to the new car, scrap my 97 and sell engine out of it to recooperate some of the purchase price for a new Mark 8.
Really want your guys input on this. Car is sitting with no intake manifold or passenger side valve cover on engine inside my shop out of the weather. I need to come up with a solution soon.
 
~~~~ UPDATE ~~~~~~~

Engine is tore down to the bare block, the block is getting ready to be dropped off at the machine shop in just a little bit to be bored. This is what was wrong with my engine:

1. 2 bent connecting rods
2. Bore issues (6 out of 8 pistons were moving a crap load side to side in the bore causing piston slap)
3. 2 out of 4 camshafts had damaged lobes
4. Damaged motor mount (bolt snapped in half in the block after we tried removing it, machine shop is fixing this too)
5. Blown head gasket
6. Valves were leaking (confirmed by water test)

What I'm doing :

1. Block is being bored .020 or .030 over to fix bore issue
2. New rod and main bearings
3. New ford Motorsport high volume oil pump
4. Felpro engine gasket set
5. Cobra Intake cams
6. IMRC Deletes
7. Kooks stainless 3/4 length headers
8. Ported Upper and lower cobra intake
9. Heads are being milled to raise compression slightly
10. New replacement Speedpro pistons for over bore on block, coated and raises compression by .2

I will keep you guys updated
 
thats pretty bad. new motor is good though.

get flat top pistons, sounds like you are.
that plus head milling will get you up around 10.5:1.
still more than streetable.

will you be degreeing the cams?
 
~~~~ UPDATE ~~~~~~~

Engine is tore down to the bare block, the block is getting ready to be dropped off at the machine shop in just a little bit to be bored. This is what was wrong with my engine:

1. 2 bent connecting rods
2. Bore issues (6 out of 8 pistons were moving a crap load side to side in the bore causing piston slap)
3. 2 out of 4 camshafts had damaged lobes
4. Damaged motor mount (bolt snapped in half in the block after we tried removing it, machine shop is fixing this too)
5. Blown head gasket
6. Valves were leaking (confirmed by water test)

What I'm doing :

1. Block is being bored .020 or .030 over to fix bore issue
2. New rod and main bearings
3. New ford Motorsport high volume oil pump
4. Felpro engine gasket set
5. Cobra Intake cams
6. IMRC Deletes
7. Kooks stainless 3/4 length headers
8. Ported Upper and lower cobra intake
9. Heads are being milled to raise compression slightly
10. New replacement Speedpro pistons for over bore on block, coated and raises compression by .2

I will keep you guys updated
Getting the heads done, magna flux , new guides as needed, valves ground, hears planes off. This alone will help any car and more with a boreing and new rings . I am now all for you . Valve job and heads refirbished would do it more goodO(hp)
 
I'm actually going with the factory 3cc dish style pistons, mod max sells the ones I am buying, they are a 3cc dish speed pro and with those pistons on any stock 4v and un-milled heads it shows a compression rating of 10.2:1, however as you guys said I will be getting the heads milled as well. 10.5:1 sounds like a pretty accurate estimate for compression Chris. I want to get the cams degreed as I know this makes a big difference but I won't be getting the adjustable cam gears to really do it right so I will just be having them installed un-degreed. This is fine with me though, I've seen 03-04 Mach 1s w/ C heads pick up 20 rwhp from 96-98 cobra intake cams UN-Degreed. So I am hopeful. My engine builder showed me multiple other 2v and 4v motors that had the same piston slap issues mine has, seems to be a very common issue that I would most definitely look in to if any of you other guys plan on rebuilding your engines too.
 
I'm actually going with the factory 3cc dish style pistons, mod max sells the ones I am buying, they are a 3cc dish speed pro and with those pistons on any stock 4v and un-milled heads it shows a compression rating of 10.2:1

that number is incomplete. B heads and 99 01 heads have a bigger combustion chamber than 03 04 heads.
this is why the mach 1 had a higher comp ratio than the earlier cars. ~2 cc smaller chamber.

flat tops in the 03 04 cars yields about 10.5.
in the earlier cars its like 10.1 10.2.
dish with the early heads is 9.85.

depends on how much you mill, but you can bring that number back up.
you may also need to mill the timing cover as well. be sure to check.

I want to get the cams degreed as I know this makes a big difference but I won't be getting the adjustable cam gears to really do it right so I will just be having them installed un-degreed. This is fine with me though, I've seen 03-04 Mach 1s w/ C heads pick up 20 rwhp from 96-98 cobra intake cams UN-Degreed. So I am hopeful.

mach 1s were undercammed imo, they should have used the cobra cams from factory.
even the small jump in duration with the late c heads helps them noticeably.

you will leave some torque on the table if you don't advance the intake cams. advancing them works nicely because you can add the torque down low without seeing too much of a hp penalty because you run out of intake up top anyway.
plus the car is heavy anyway.

My engine builder showed me multiple other 2v and 4v motors that had the same piston slap issues mine has, seems to be a very common issue that I would most definitely look in to if any of you other guys plan on rebuilding your engines too.

pretty sure mine has some piston noise as well. motor has at least 220k miles. many of them tuned, geared, etc.



also. will you use the FRPP 4v pump or the 3v/gt500 pump?
 
Yeah with 220k I can almost assure your correct in assuming you probably have some piston slap like mine did too. Mine had 160k and had it. My engine builder also showed me a coupe 5.4 and 4.6 2vs and 5.4 and 4.6 4vs that had it too, the pistons have side to side movement in the bore and were noisy as hell. I am using the 4v high volume pump for the 96-98 cobra in my car Chris. Good point on the compression too. Not sure what my car will have when it is all said and done. I just now got back from dropping the block off. 325$ to bore all 8 cylinder .020 - .030 over and remove the broken drivers side motor mount bolt from block. All In all I will be happy if the car makes 270 rwhp which should be easy imo.
 
IMG_0191.JPG

My block as of 45 minutes ago right before I picked it up and loaded it in the truck to drop it off. These blocks are stupid light, so glad the Teksid is aluminum. I can pick it up myself effortlessly
 
alright. all the 96+4vs got the cobra pumps. it will work fine.

they upped the oil pump volume in 05 (the 3v) to keep up with cam phasers they added. the added a steel backing plate to the 3v pump for the gt500.
its a nice upgrade but not truly necessary.
 
That is such a rare stang, 84 GT 2.3 Turbo, very hard to find a factory 2.3T stang that isn't a SVO. I also have a 1973 Q Code 351cj Mach 1 mustang and a 1971 Torino 500 hard top. Brother has a 2014 challenger rt shaker, 64 comet caliente, and 88 GT hatch 5 speed car. Dad has a 1970, & 71 Mach 1 mustang and 89 thunderbird sc. almost all those are are projects though
Those heads look tops and from my past experience a valve job like this alone would make the car run like a new mark. or stang
 

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