Oil Pan Gasket Change?

C

corder13

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I took my Town Car up to a friend of mine to get some exhaust work done. I already knew that the car had a pretty bad oil leak, but wasn't sure if it was the oil pan gasket or the rear main seal that was leaking. He called me and let me know that it was my oil pan gasket leaking. He also told me that in order to change the oil pan gasket, the motor had to be all but taken out to do it. Is that correct? It has the dual sump oil pan, but I've never attempted one like that before.

Rick
 
That does not sound right, There is a small Gasket around the oil plug on 80's TC's, (at least on Nyssa's 88 there is) The oil plug is right in plain sight, no need to remove the engine. If it's the actual Gasket for the pan, you would not have to remove the engine to take that out, You just have to remove the oil pan as far as I know. Either way I am pretty sure "engine removal" is un needed for either one.
 
On the 5.0L on my '90 TC I had a choice. Two pc gsket - prone to leak again but didnt require the engine to be jacked up or the one piece rubber gasket which required the engien to be jacked up enough to clear the cross member. Cost was 3x If I remember right. I planned on keeping the car so I did the one piece. $250 if I remember (it was 1998). The 2 pcs was like $90. I didnt have the tools to pull the engine up so I had it done. I had the mounts replaced too - only extra cost was parts.

Worked out ok cause the morons crushed an A/C line and had to replace the the line, dryer and charge the whole system - at no cost to me.
 
Black87LSC said:
Yea, to do the oil pan gasket you gotta pull the motor up a bit..
Click to expand...

I did not know you had to pull the motor for the Gasket, Never would have guessed. Seems like alot of work for just a oil pan gasket.
 
I think you just have to unbolt the mounts, and jack it up a few inches with the crane. That dual sump really makes it more of a job than it should be.
 
Thanks for all the info. Does anyone know what amount of time it'd take to change it (by the book). I'm trying to figure out how much it's gonna cost. I never have much time to work on my own vehicles anymore.

Rick
 
I'd take about 4 hours - and it's just the major mechanical componets that have to be disconnected (Both mounts/exhaust) and stuff of that such that isn't too good at flexing :)

Normally I just get all thoes parts off, jack up the engine until you start to hear like a 'cracking' sound (best way to describe it) and you should have *just* enough room to get the sucker out. The dual sump does suck ass...:mad:
 
Clean all around the block to pan areas to see EXACTLY where the oil seepage is coming from.

Then - FIRST - see if all the pan bolts are tight. It's not uncommon on these engines to have the pan bolts loosen a bit to allow oil leakage. It may be as simple as re-tightening the pan bolts.

If the bolts are tight then loosen all of them about a 1/4th inch. Use a curved pry bar to CAREFULLY pop the pan loose from the block in the area of the leak. Get a tube of Permatex Anaerobic Flange Sealant (seals with no air present) from your local auto parts store. Liberally spread the sealer between the pan joint and the block around the gasket, forcing as much sealant into the gap as possible. Tighten the pan bolts back up immediately.

Forget about further leakage for a loooong time.

Thie above is a standard practice in more competant garages - no motor mounts to loosen. Loosening the pan bolts requires a flex 3/8" drive socket, though.
 
Thanks! I'll definitely give that a shot, at least when I can get it up in the air. I really don't wanna try getting underneath that car. LOL

Rick
 
Believe me, I know! I was working on my aunt's car in 2002 without using jack stands. The car fell on me. :( Luckily, it was just the back end (which was sagging), so I could easily lift it enough to get out from under it, but it still hurt. I haven't been under a car since. LOL When I said "up in the air", I meant on a lift if possible. My grandfather may let me use his shop. He owns a garage up the road.

Rick
 
definately use the flange sealent, I myself have used it in several instinses it workes really good.
 
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