OEM or aftermarket lug nuts?

Lincoln LS

  1. moneypitLS

    moneypitLS LVC Member

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    I have a 2005 V8 Ls and I’m looking to replace the lugnuts. I currently have aftermarket Toyota lugs and I believe that they’re what’s causing my wheels to shake. When I put new tires on yesterday I noticed the shank looked longer than the hole in the wheel so even though they torque down properly I don’t believe they’re holding the wheel fully flat against the hub. Anyways I looked at Ford parts giant and the OE lugs were $7 a piece and dormans were only a couple bucks a piece so I was wondering if anyone had used the dormans and if they work well? If it helps I have the 7 double spoke wheels and the lugs are mag lugs.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2020
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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  3. moneypitLS

    moneypitLS LVC Member

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    Yeah I’ve used their wheel studs and lugs on customers vehicles at work and they seemed ok but I haven’t used them on my own vehicles so I guess I’ll have see how they hold up in the long run. Gonna order them today and I’ll update on how they perform along with their affect on my wheel shake issue.
     
  4. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Dedicated LVC Member

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    Screenshot_20200630-170451_Amazon Shopping.jpg
     
  5. AmsterDutch

    AmsterDutch Dedicated LVC Member

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    You're not going to find any better for the price ;)
     
  6. moneypitLS

    moneypitLS LVC Member

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    Can’t argue that logic. Plus it’s not like fords chrome sleeved lugs were super great in the first place
     
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    • Broseph

      Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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      I bought some aftermarket Ford/GM lugs from Autozone or another parts store when I got my car in 2012....similar experience to those Toyota’s. They were chamfered instead of flanged and had a horrible time getting them centered.

      Bought those Dormans in 2013 and still have them on my car. A few had to be replaced but if you make sure your socket is flush on the bottom of the lug, they’re fine replacements, especially considering the cost
       
    • nghtshd88

      nghtshd88 Well-Known LVC Member

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      They never rusted/peeled? Need a few now, every AF one ive ever had does the same. OEM never has but the caps come loose over time.
       
    • moneypitLS

      moneypitLS LVC Member

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      So the Toyota lugs were definitely too long. I put in the dormants and the shake reduced dramatically but is still there. Anyone have any ideas? Tires are brand new Bridgestone Turanzas, wheels aren’t bent, they’re balanced properly, and the hubs are clean. The shake comes on lightly at 25-30 and gets worse with speed. The mechanics at my shop said the steering wheel shake would only be from wheels/tires or an axle but the car is rear wheel so I’m at a loss.

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    • joegr

      joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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      Well balanced tires will still shake if they aren't perfectly round. You could have them road force balanced. That should pick up any roundness problems. My 04 had the shaking/rocking steering wheel issue. Tried a few things, but a set of four new (different model) tires cured it.
      Your nearly new tires may have been damaged by the loose lugs. Maybe they are cupped now?
       
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      • milehighmikey

        milehighmikey Dedicated LVC Member

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        I put Dorman lug nuts on my car a long time ago, and every single one of them are rusted totally. I have to spray garage door lube oil into my socket whenever I move tires, or the socket will stick to the rusty lug nut and be a pain the ass to remove. The Chrysler Sebring lugs were stainless and not capped, but I let them go with my first LS that got totaled. I thought I was getting a set of those when I ordered the Dorman, but I did not.
         
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        • joegr

          joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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          Good to know...
           
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          • milehighmikey

            milehighmikey Dedicated LVC Member

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            Just the outside is rusted up, the threaded part and the lug snout are all good. I should have stated that first. Plus being in NH is not helpful. They would probably work great in the deep south.
             
          • joegr

            joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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            Possibly so. All of my original lug nuts are still good.
             
          • moneypitLS

            moneypitLS LVC Member

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            They don’t feel cupped when I run my hand over them. They also only had 50 miles put on them, think that’s long enough to cause issues? We only have regular balancers at the shop so I’ll see if another location has a road force balancer
             
          • joegr

            joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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            I don't know. It was a different car, but I once had two new (had them less than a week, I think) tires that had some internal belt defect. The car wobbled a bit, but each tire felt okay, however if you took them off the car and rolled them down a slight hill, two would consistently fall over just a little ways down the hill, and the other two had no problem making it all the way down each time. Just a thought...
             
          • moneypitLS

            moneypitLS LVC Member

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            Isn’t the wheel supposed to fall to one side depending on the offset? Every time I roll a wheel to a co worker it always leans to the side of the face of the rim. Anyways I think I’ll have them road forced and if that doesn’t work I’ll see if I can warranty them. I’m getting real sick of buying tires I tell ya lol.
             
          • FDR

            FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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            I used Dorman 611-117 nuts for the sebring/galant the first time. They're chrome plated and rusted/flaked very quickly for me, definitely not stainless. But they still worked perfectly fine as a nut.

            I now have Toyota-specific Gorilla splines, but yes they're a deeper shank. Turns out the seat in Jaguar Zeus wheels are a little thicker than the 5-spoke Sport wheels I took off. If you take off the wheel, snug up 2-3 nuts against the rotor, and count how many turns it takes to put on another lug nut, you can then compare how many turns the nut makes with the wheel mounted. My Zeus wheels had 1-2 turns to spare, my stocks were short 1-2.

            Sebring nuts on stock wheels had 1-2 to spare.

            Ideally, you want 12 turns on these cars for 18mm thread engagement, though that's a racing requirement. I'd never go less than stud diameter, 12mm, which is 8 turns (8 turns*1.5mm/turn pitch=12mm)

            Meanwhile, Sebring nuts through stock wheels hit the rotors on my Fusion. I wanted to use the old LS wheels as winters for the Daily, but those rotors did not have the countersink around the lugs. Something was weird about it when spinning it to check for clearance after snugging them up. Sure enough, a good tug on the wheel made it tilt and wobble
             

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