O2 sensor voltage and testing

MMAFIGHTER121

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I stopped by autozone to pull a code on the way home and quickly read my O2s voltages as well to check my problem. I got a code P0430, which I doubt is actually the problem but what I noticed was that while 3 of my sensors were fluctuating between .1-.8V at idle (normal range) one was just sitting at .04V. All 4 of these O2 sensors are brand new, and I was having similar trouble codes prior to their replacement, so I'm thinking the issue is higher up the line. Is there a way to test the O2 sensors socket to see if maybe there is an issue with the wiring somewhere along the line?
 
Bueller.... bueller....
Basically how would I test if the problem is the O2 or earlier in the wiring?
 
I am sure you would find the beginning of the wire and test the ohms from the o2 sensor to the pcm but I have idea what that ohm reading should be. When I get home from work I will look up the wiring on the workshop cd
 
Taken from alldata

P0430 PG 1.jpg


P0430 PG2.jpg


P0430 PG3.jpg


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P0430 PG5.jpg


P0430 PG6.jpg
 
D1.) Catalyst Efficiency Monitor - Information


The Federal Test Procedure Catalyst Monitor monitors for deterioration in the catalyst system and illuminates the MIL when tailpipe emissions exceed the appropriate HC emission thresholds. The Catalyst Monitor is enabled after the upstream and downstream HO2S sensors have been tested and verified to be functional. This monitor relies on the front and rear heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) to infer catalyst efficiency based upon oxygen storage capacity. Under normal closed loop fuel conditions, high efficiency catalysts have oxygen storage which makes the switching frequency of the rear HO2S quite slow compared with the frequency of the front HO2S. As catalyst efficiency deteriorates, its ability to store oxygen declines, and the rear HO2S begins to switch more rapidly, approaching the frequency of the front sensor. In general, as catalyst efficiency decreases, the switch ratio increases from a switch ratio of 0 for a low mileage catalyst to a switch ratio of 0.8 or 0.9 for a low efficiency catalyst.

Some vehicles will monitor substantially less than the entire catalyst volume in order to meet the stringent catalyst monitoring malfunction thresholds. In many cases, only the front, light-off catalyst is monitored.

Front and rear HO2S switches are counted under specified closed loop fuel conditions. After the required number of front switches are obtained, a rear-to-front HO2S switch ratio is calculated. The switch ratio is compared against a threshold value. If the switch ratio is greater than the calibrated maximum limit, the catalyst has failed. The test entry conditions for the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor are as follows: ECT or CHT (warmed engine), IAT (not at extreme ambient temperatures), MAF (greater than minimum engine load), VSS (within vehicle speed window) and TP (at part throttle) are required.

^ Because an exponentially weighted moving average is used for malfunction determination, up to six OBD II drive cycles may be required to illuminate the MIL.

NOTE THE CATALYST MONITOR ON SOME EARLY OBD II VEHICLES (SOME 1994-1996 VEHICLES) WAS REFERRED TO AS THE "STEADY-STATE CATALYST MONITOR" AS OPPOSED TO THE "FTP CATALYST MONITOR" (DESCRIBED ABOVE) THAT IS MOST COMMON FOR VEHICLES BUILT AFTER 1996. BELOW IS A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE STEADY-STATE CATALYST MONITOR:

The Steady-State Catalyst Monitor performs a 20 second test during steady state rpm and load conditions. The Monitor transfers closed loop fuel control from the front to the rear 02 sensors. The Monitor then observes the switching frequency and compares it to a threshold frequency stored in an rpm/load table. A frequency higher than the maximum calibrated threshold indicates a malfunction.

The Catalyst Monitor DTCs can be categorized as follows:

^ Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank1) - P0420

^ Catalyst system efficiency below threshold (Bank2) - P0430

P0430 PG7.gif
 
That's good information, but is that last diagram for the 3.0L? I was looking for more basic instruction on how to test where the O2 plugs into the vehicle to see if the connection there is good. The problem I'm looking at is that one sensor isn't showing any voltage, and since I've swapped O2s and the code remained the same, I think its not the sensor, but the connection, so I'm looking for troubleshooting steps to test that.
 
checked voltage output of all 4 sensors with a DMM - so the problem has to be with the wiring. where does the wiring follow back up to and I would still like to find a way to double check the connection
 
checked voltage output of all 4 sensors with a DMM - so the problem has to be with the wiring. where does the wiring follow back up to and I would still like to find a way to double check the connection

Hi I have the same problem with My car bank 2 sensor 2 is brand mew and showing 0 voltage.Did You ever find a solution?
Thanks!
 
I have the same code for bank 2 sensor 2 too. I just haven't had a chance to trace the wires and test them with the socket. That'll be your best bet to find the problem.
 
I can't even get to the connection with a tester since it's on top of the transmission.It was a PITA just to change the sensor I had to lower the tranny.Is there another way to get to that plug?
 
I can't even get to the connection with a tester since it's on top of the transmission.It was a PITA just to change the sensor I had to lower the tranny.Is there another way to get to that plug?

What car do you have? Are you sure it is an LS?
 
I can't even get to the connection with a tester since it's on top of the transmission.It was a PITA just to change the sensor I had to lower the tranny.Is there another way to get to that plug?

What car do you have? Are you sure it is an LS?

No kidding!!!! It took me all of 45 minutes to change out both front sensors on the 2000. That was walking into the garage, getting out the jack, getting a couple of jack stands, contemplating life for a minute or two, jacking-up the car and installing the jack stands, climbing underneath and admiring the beautiful aluminum suspension parts (again!), finding the right size wrench (15/16"?, I don't really remember), removing the O2 sensors, getting back out as I forgot to bring the new sensors under with me, finding my anti-seize, installing the new sensors, admiring my work and marveling at the ease I accomplished this task (credit the engineers here...), jacking the car back up, removing the jack stands, lowering the car, putting away the jack and stands and walking back into the house and cleaning up. My wife was still asleep! Had I dependable ramps I could have been done much sooner! This job was easier than changing the air filter!
 
It's a '01 LS V8 for sure.It's got 4 oxygen sensors.one before the cat(sensor 1) and one after (sensor 2).The one after the cat is beside the transmission and the write harness it plugs into sits on top of the transmission.In order to access the connectors the crossmember have to be unbolted from the car.This allows the tranny to drop down about 3 inches giving easier access to the plugs.I can still only get one hand up there.If You don't think that's a PITA then get Your jack and jack stand out of the garage and try it Yourself.Please tell Me if there is an easier way.
Thank You!
 
That's very different than my 04 and 06 V8s. I haven't had to change any O2 sensors, but I've seen them before and they seem accessible. It looked like the engineers went out of there way to make the connectors easy to get to.

Do you have any pictures?

How different is yours from the drawing below?

s6x~us~en~file=n0034613.gif~gen~ref.gif
 
It's a '01 LS V8 for sure.It's got 4 oxygen sensors.one before the cat(sensor 1) and one after (sensor 2).The one after the cat is beside the transmission and the write harness it plugs into sits on top of the transmission.In order to access the connectors the crossmember have to be unbolted from the car.This allows the tranny to drop down about 3 inches giving easier access to the plugs.I can still only get one hand up there.If You don't think that's a PITA then get Your jack and jack stand out of the garage and try it Yourself.Please tell Me if there is an easier way.
Thank You!

My 02 V8 was very easy to change and get to harness, even though goes on top of trans the connector was on a bracket on side of trans easily accessable. Dont know if and why 2001 would be different unless someone rerouted it.
 
Lucky You.That's how Mine should have been.maybe someone massed with it.As far as location the sensors are exactly the same a the pick above but the cnnectors are sitting right where the number 7 is.I'll take some pics later tonight.So for You guys are the connectors toward the front of the tranny? Maybe my harness is cut on something up there.I've tried to pull on them gently but it was just pulling the wire from the sensor on bank 1.It seems like my harness is tied together at the end just before the 2 connectors.It would be so much easier with a lift.
 
So I was able to get to the connector today with a volt meter and it's good.I have the same reading on both ends.
What could be the problem now?
 
So I need to how the signal gets from the O2 sensor to the computer.
A related wiring diagram would be very heplful!
Thanks!
 
If I can remember to do it, I may have time to look up the gen I wiring diagrams next week. Meanwhile, it should be easy enough for you to trace. It's straight from the O2 sensors to the PCM. The PCM is behind the glove box under the dash, but the connector to the PCM is on the firewall under the hood.
 
Nice,Thanks!I'll start digging for that.
The PCM pinout diagram would be enough than.
 
I found the wire going into the PCM it was pin 28 on the small connector.Wire is good.
What I also noticed is that the O2 sensor test is passed on the self diagnostic.But after the cat. test completed it showed up.
I'm gonna try and smog it tomorrow and see what happens.
 

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