numbers

Markviiiedrea

Markviiiedrea

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I would like to have the spec numbers as reference, not just hp/tq but lift, duration, bore, stroke, CFM flow for the intake & heads, how long the intake runners are, every thing you guys could possibly think of, such a size, weight, ignition timing and firing order, duration of the 4.6 DOHC mark motor. Everything!

I also would like a parts list of preferred parts that should go in the mark engine, such t-stat, trans, and water coolers, spark plugs, wires, cams, pistons, crank, valves, springs, rings, rockers, everything.

Thanxs guys


and one more what is the best kind of roots blower for the mark motor?
 
Markviiiedrea said:
I would like to have the spec numbers as reference, not just hp/tq but lift, duration, bore, stroke, CFM flow for the intake & heads, how long the intake runners are, every thing you guys could possibly think of, such a size, weight, ignition timing and firing order, duration of the 4.6 DOHC mark motor. Everything!

I also would like a parts list of preferred parts that should go in the mark engine, such t-stat, trans, and water coolers, spark plugs, wires, cams, pistons, crank, valves, springs, rings, rockers, everything.

Thanxs guys


and one more what is the best kind of roots blower for the mark motor?
Click to expand...

How bout buying a Manual? They are $12 on Ebay on CD, thats my answer. :thread:
 
Tractionless said:
How bout buying a Manual? They are $12 on Ebay on CD, thats my answer. :thread:
Click to expand...



I have the ford manual in the trunk of my car....I'll go get it and make a scan. Mike
 
Tractionless said:
How bout buying a Manual? They are $12 on Ebay on CD, thats my answer. :thread:
Click to expand...

this thread doesn't suck. it's a good question, what's with the attitude?
 
He always seems to have attitude. He never has with me, although I'm sure he will now, but it's just something I've noticed after reading many threads.
 
I use a certain smilie and now I have an attitude....funny albeit. I understand the purpose of this and other forums as that to help each other out. But at what point do you stop answering the same question for the 500th time? We all know this info. and probably tons more that he is looking for is in the manual. Only giving him what he is asking for might infact cause him more harm than good. He isn't asking for simple "how to replace the door hinge" stuff here people these are pretty serious requests.

I don't hold hands rather I point people in the right direction. I didn't tell him to screw off or the like I told him where to find the info. If the rest of you don't like that response then oh well. If you want to think I have a attitude based on a one-dimensional medium (computer monitor), without body language or voice tone thats your dilema.
 
Tractionless said:
I use a certain smilie and now I have an attitude....funny albeit. I understand the purpose of this and other forums as that to help each other out. But at what point do you stop answering the same question for the 500th time? We all know this info.
Click to expand...

I don't know all this info.
 
Here's some interesting facts about the 4.6 DOHC:
-the bore x stroke is 3.55 x 3.54, almost a perfectly square engine.
-the stock "B" heads have a combined combustion chamber of 222cc, they flow over 230cfm at .500 lift stock. When fully ported they flow enough air to support well over 1000hp. John Mihivotz currently makes 1700hp with his B heads in his 6 second 4.6 DOHC.
- the block is cast by Teksid, an Italian company which also makes blocks for Ferrari. It is one of the strongest aluminum production V8 blocks ever produced. It is only found in the 93-98 Mark VIII and 96-98 Cobra. Some 99 Cobras may have got this block.
-compression is 9.85 made to run on 91 + premium gas.
-the Mark VIII comes with a cast crank vs. a forged crank on the Cobra. The cast crank is better for naturally aspirated 4.6 engines. It is good for more than 500 hp and lets you rev a bit quicker compared to the forged crank.
 
95LSC32V said:
Here's some interesting facts about the 4.6 DOHC:
-the bore x stroke is 3.55 x 3.54, almost a perfectly square engine.
-the stock "B" heads have a combined combustion chamber of 222cc, they flow over 230cfm at .500 lift stock. When fully ported they flow enough air to support well over 1000hp. John Mihivotz currently makes 1700hp with his B heads in his 6 second 4.6 DOHC.
- the block is cast by Teksid, an Italian company which also makes blocks for Ferrari. It is one of the strongest aluminum production V8 blocks ever produced. It is only found in the 93-98 Mark VIII and 96-98 Cobra. Some 99 Cobras may have got this block.
-compression is 9.85 made to run on 91 + premium gas.
-the Mark VIII comes with a cast crank vs. a forged crank on the Cobra. The cast crank is better for naturally aspirated 4.6 engines. It is good for more than 500 hp and lets you rev a bit quicker compared to the forged crank.
Click to expand...

can the stock rods handle 500hp too? are the pistons forged ?
 
Tractionless said:
We all know this info.
Click to expand...

Even if most of us do "know this info" (which I don't), we should not ignore or put people down for not "knowing this info." There are a lot of people just getting into the car hobby and want to learn, and putting them down is going to multiply the number of people who don't like cars. We gotta carry on the car culture... :Beer
 
The stock rods and pistons are the weakest links of the 4.6 DOHC. They can handle up to 400hp but that's about it.
 
67 Cont,
If you are going to quote me quote me correctly. I said, "We all know this info......IS FOUND IN THE MANUAL." Not just "We all know this info." Nice try though! *owned*

Black87LSC,
The only one being put down here is me being told I have an attitude. I merely told the thread author where to find ALL the info. he wanted not just what people are going to selectively supply to him. Who knows by doing some research in the Manual he may find out MORE than what he wants, maybe just maybe he will find something out he didn't think of!

In closing I have noticed more and more (not just in forums) that people just want the answer and have no drive to educate themselves. Maybe that is why current college graduates have 4.0gpa's but can't tie their shoes. I tell you an individual with common sense is becoming harder to find than one with a Masters degree. Its sad really.

Please someone butcher my quote again so you can make youself look dumb its quite amusing.

Regards
 
I was told the stock rods where all forged? And the pistons and the crank where cast.

I just want this info because when my engine is being pulled next winter I will know what to do with it.

As far as after market parts what are good ones to replace with stock components on the car, such as cams and pistons.

This will be my seconded car engine rebuild the first being the 95 mercury tracer that I'm going to start on next week, I have built several lycoming and continental's, and some turbo jets engines. So the car thing is a first because I'm used to rebuilding to stock not rebuilding to modify.
 
Both the stock rods and pistons are not forged. There are many quality aftermarket rods and pistons.
 
First of all guys...check the attitudes. I'll give a little leeway to Keith (Tractionless) because he is an important part of the site and adds alot of value which is always important. I always respect guys that participate and not just lurk. No decent car site can exist with lurkers only.

That said, the Mod motors we have have a couple of huge weaknesses. One is the ring lands that are part and parcel of the Hypereutectic pistons. The second weakness are the rods.

Without gettin super complicated, if you run too much boost and heat (detonation) (kind of like premature ejaculation)
icon12.gif
, you are either going to fry the pistons or break the rods. Take your choice.

BUT, you can (relatively) safely run a 'stock' mod motor to about 400-450 rwhp and expect it to live more than a few months with a good tune and premium gas. Short of that, you are playing with fire. OUR Mod MOTORS, (and we have the best) TEKSID BLOCKS THAT MONEY CAN BUY) and I would also argue (THE BEST HEADS "B STYLE") that money can buy, anywhere. Do NOT give them away. With the new turbo and screw systems coming out, they will be worth a small fortune.

Our cars are worth "twice" what the market is bearing in parts alone! OK, don't take me on for exact actual $$ data. It's just a comment.

Do this. If you want 'rice killing hp', build your 'bottom end" and you'll have yourself a sleeper "MonsterMark". 'All rights reserved'.
 
Tractionless said:
67 Cont,
If you are going to quote me quote me correctly. I said, "We all know this info......IS FOUND IN THE MANUAL." Not just "We all know this info." Nice try though! *owned*

Black87LSC,
The only one being put down here is me being told I have an attitude. I merely told the thread author where to find ALL the info. he wanted not just what people are going to selectively supply to him. Who knows by doing some research in the Manual he may find out MORE than what he wants, maybe just maybe he will find something out he didn't think of!

In closing I have noticed more and more (not just in forums) that people just want the answer and have no drive to educate themselves. Maybe that is why current college graduates have 4.0gpa's but can't tie their shoes. I tell you an individual with common sense is becoming harder to find than one with a Masters degree. Its sad really.

Please someone butcher my quote again so you can make youself look dumb its quite amusing.

Regards
Click to expand...

i assume periods are the end of a sentence, my mistake. i don't think i look dumb, nor do i feel dumb. nor do i feel as confrontational as you make me out to be. i'm on this site because i enjoy these cars and because people here are friendly and informative. if i find that my experience here starts to become negative, i'll just leave. that would be unfortunate, but i don't need the extra stress.
 
MonsterMark said:
First of all guys...check the attitudes. I'll give a little leeway to Keith (Tractionless) because he is an important part of the site and adds alot of value which is always important. I always respect guys that participate and not just lurk. No decent car site can exist with lurkers only.
Click to expand...


i am a moderator on a 20 000 member car site here in Montreal. I have to deal with attitudes all day long, because a large number of site members are under the age of 20. Participation is nice, but belligerence is quite off-putting. I see the owned sign 10 times a day, i don't feel like seeing it here and i don't feel like having someone else who makes valid contributions to the board and asks solid questions being told he is somehow stupid for asking those questions.

Threads like these are the exception, not the rule on this site, and I would love for it to stay that way.
 
MonsterMark said:
First of all guys...check the attitudes. I'll give a little leeway to Keith (Tractionless) because he is an important part of the site and adds alot of value which is always important. I always respect guys that participate and not just lurk. No decent car site can exist with lurkers only.

That said, the Mod motors we have have a couple of huge weaknesses. One is the ring lands that are part and parcel of the Hypereutectic pistons. The second weakness are the rods.

Without gettin super complicated, if you run too much boost and heat (detonation) (kind of like premature ejaculation)
icon12.gif
, you are either going to fry the pistons or break the rods. Take your choice.

BUT, you can (relatively) safely run a 'stock' mod motor to about 400-450 rwhp and expect it to live more than a few months with a good tune and premium gas. Short of that, you are playing with fire. OUR Mod MOTORS, (and we have the best) TEKSID BLOCKS THAT MONEY CAN BUY) and I would also argue (THE BEST HEADS "B STYLE") that money can buy, anywhere. Do NOT give them away. With the new turbo and screw systems coming out, they will be worth a small fortune.

Our cars are worth "twice" what the market is bearing in parts alone! OK, don't take me on for exact actual $$ data. It's just a comment.

Do this. If you want 'rice killing hp', build your 'bottom end" and you'll have yourself a sleeper "MonsterMark". 'All rights reserved'.
Click to expand...

Thank you that's the stuff I want to hear, "experience talking" some stuff is found in books, just not all. Its nice to have knowledge like this, I envy guys like you. but I'm still young and dumb, but listing.
 
67Continental said:
i am a moderator on a 20 000 member car site here in Montreal. I have to deal with attitudes all day long, because a large number of site members are under the age of 20. Participation is nice, but belligerence is quite off-putting. I see the owned sign 10 times a day, i don't feel like seeing it here and i don't feel like having someone else who makes valid contributions to the board and asks solid questions being told he is somehow stupid for asking those questions.

Threads like these are the exception, not the rule on this site, and I would love for it to stay that way.
Click to expand...

One of the reasons I prefer this site to certain others (I think the Mark VIII owners know which one in particular I'm referring to) is the fact that egos and attitudes are checked at the door. Let's not start taking ourselves so seriously that we lose site of why we participate. A little info, a little support, a little sympathy and a little fun...that's why I come here!
 
Markviiiedrea said:
Thank you that's the stuff I want to hear, "experience talking" some stuff is found in books, just not all. Its nice to have knowledge like this, I envy guys like you. but I'm still young and dumb, but listing.
Click to expand...


Alot of "expierence" comes from these books. ;) I don't know why we all blew up in here, but it's not needed. I went out to the garage and ended up sanding on my car and getting distracted, so here are the specs I was talking about. Directly out of the 1993 Ford repair manual. :)

http://community.webshots.com/user/camaro97383 click on "odds and ends"

Like monster said.......Ring lands (pistons), and the Rods are the weak link in the early 4.6's. If you want to make any type of reliable power, you NEED to upgrade to a forged crank, rods, and pistons. The ironic part is......Our blocks are considered one of the strongest aluminum blocks ford produced.

EDIT.....I also feel that our heads are the better choice out there right now. (I went with 03 Cobra heads due to that fact You can't get a 2.4L Twin screw with the B-style heads.)


All that said....Lets keep the fighting down, and get along here. The more people we have in here, the better it is.


Mike
 
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