No turn signal dash lights

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thebeast431

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2001 Lincoln Ls V8

Turn signals all work fine, on the outside of the car, but the indicators in the dash area are not visible.

I know the clockspring needs to be replaced (Airbag beeps, no cruise control, no volume controls.) But I am unsure if its related.

Any help on what the issue is would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


Travis
 
It is not related to the clockspring.
Did you check the bulbs in the cluster?
 
The clockspring is on my next "to do" list. Hopefully that is the issue. I haven't removed the cluster yet. I was going to do it all at the same time. I just assumed it was a common issue.
 
The clockspring does not have any effect on the blinkers. The clockspring only affects what is on the steering wheel. The blinker stalk is on the steering column.

If you're new to this kind of repair, I'd recommend doing the cluster and the clockspring separately. The only labor you're saving is the time it takes to carry tools to your car and the the time it takes to remove the knee panel with the trunk buttons. I'd rather make sure I got one task reassembled correctly without adding any guesswork if something goes wrong.

But I also removed my radio while fixing my AdvanceTrac button.
 
thebeast431 said:
I will take the advice of doing just the Clockspring for now.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that you are understanding here...
The clockspring replacement should resolve your cruise and radio issues. It won't fix the turn signal indicators or the SRS beeps (The beeps are because your SRS bulb is burned out or removed.)
 
joegr said:
I'm not sure that you are understanding here...
The clockspring replacement should resolve your cruise and radio issues. It won't fix the turn signal indicators or the SRS beeps (The beeps are because your SRS bulb is burned out or removed.)
Click to expand...

I think I get what you are saying. I will work on the clockspring first, then attempt to replace the burnt out dash bulbs (turn signals and airbag) the weekend after.

I was reading up on replacing bulbs, I saw I may need to get my car reprogrammed at the dealer (if the PCM and Cluster lose their connection). Will this be the case on a simple bulb swap?

Text below

Prior to removal of the instrument cluster, it is necessary to upload the instrument cluster configuration information to the diagnostic tool

Thanks again for your help.
 
No, no reprogramming required. Just disconnect the battery before you remove the cluster.
You only need to pull the configuration and reprogram if you are replacing your cluster with another cluster, not if you are just taking it out and then putting the same one back in.
 
joegr said:
You only need to pull the configuration and reprogram if you are replacing your cluster with another cluster, not if you are just taking it out and then putting the same one back in.
Click to expand...

What if I take my Gen 1 cluster out, plug in a Gen 2 (plugs look the same) to just turn on the displays, then swap them back? Would the PCM remember the old cluster or will PATS flip out? Or something else with the mileage not matching up?

I bought a Gen 2 cluster because it was cheap enough and I wanted to try some stuff on a spare cluster. I'm curious as to whether it's really a 386,xxx mile cluster or just a 38,6xx.x cluster.
 
I don't know if that would clear the secret key in the PCM or not. However, I am very sure that your gen I LS and gen II cluster will not be able to communicate, since the protocol changed. I would hope that it wouldn't do any physical damage (but don't know that for a fact).
 
So, to paraphrase, "don't do it"

Got it, thanks. I assume there's no straight +/- wires that would turn on the display either, right? I wanted to see if the natural pale-blue color of the display (GM dash color) could be tinted to a richer blue color, without the dark green overlay. Juggling a disassembled climate control panel wasn't so easy last time I tried it and I don't want to take my cluster out/apart until I know exactly what I'm doing, but I guess I could tape up the CC panel and try again
 
+12V to pins 1, 11, 17, 3, and 6 (C220b). Ground to pins 13 (C220b) and 6 (C220c). However, I don't know if it will work without the connections to the light switch.
C220b is a 22 pin connector and C220c is a 22 pin connector, but C220a is also 22 pins.
 
Presumably, the plugs are labeled sequentially, placing -b in the middle with the 4 offset pins, which I think you meant is a 20-pin connector. Conveniently, the pins have some reference numbers stamped inside them. However, I don't know which connectors are -a and -c. Given the pins are numbered left to right when facing the female sockets in the back of the cluster, does that make the connector closest to the center -a?

When I've turned my Gen 1 to Run without the headlight switch, it automatically turns the lights on. I don't remember if it turned on the dash lights. It wasn't the automatic setting, though, since they were still on 20 minutes later after closing and locking the doors. Some sequence of lock/unlock/trunk/lock turned them off. If any of that makes a difference.

Naturally, I do also have a spare headlight switch laying around. Can that also be wired up to the cluster? Or does the FEM get involved at that point? It is a Gen 1 switch, which has a similar plug but one less pin, so that could rule it out

... Stop me now if it's a non-starter
 
...

gen2-cluster.jpg
 
did you test the emergency flashers to see if the bulbs in the cluster are working? ( I may have missed it in previous posts)
 
Virginia Donkey said:
did you test the emergency flashers to see if the bulbs in the cluster are working? ( I may have missed it in previous posts)
Click to expand...

Yes, I have tested it with the flashers, no signals.

Apparently I have alot of burned out bulbs. Only the Oil pressure light works in that area, (when the key is in the on position).
 
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