2004 LS V8, ~90k miles
My LS had a few starts that seemed slow, like a weak battery. It's been sitting a lot lately and my recent trips in it were very short distances. So I went to charge the battery but also wanted to investigate the parasitic draw. It was pulling steady .7A after settling (after disconnecting trunk light). I pulled one fuse at a time from trunk fuse box while watching the draw, did same with the relays.... Eventually realizing each SSP1-4 circuit was accountable for 140mA of the draw.... with everything reconnected I let it sit, couple hours later I came back and draw was milliamps, so essentially zero. So I concluded that was all probably normal operation and not responsible for draining my battery.
Next day I go to start it and get nothing.. no crank, no clicking whatsoever. Electronics/dash all seem to power up normally, lights on and seat moves, etc. Initially I was afraid I damaged something electrically which is why I mentioned all the above. With key on I plugged in an OBDII tool and its giving me P0183. Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input?
Been reading some past threads so here is what I've done so far:
Fully charged the battery, no change. Also disconnected battery terminals for a period of time to fully reset the electronics, in case I did so in a strange/intermittent way while doing power draw tests. Also cleaned and reconnected the battery ground wire where it bolts to the body.
PATS light: stays solid for a couple seconds then turns off when car first gets powered... stays solid red while "cranking" key.
Cranking key does appear to be pulling some amperage though as voltage dips, basically to 12.0V or just under, then returns above 12.3V after stopping.
Starter fuse under hood and starter relay fuse in cabin look good. Starter relay under hood looks good - brought it inside and it tests out okay.
Just today got myself access to the starter terminals... B does read battery voltage, 12.5V or so. S and M have low resistance to ground when not cranking (wasn't sure if they should be floating? guess not).
While cranking: S goes up to about 10V. M just goes up to about 0.7V.
With those readings, is the starter definitely bad? Wasn't sure if there could still be other things happening or were just coincidence... especially confused about the P0183 code as I hadn't seen that one before.
Thanks for reading.
My LS had a few starts that seemed slow, like a weak battery. It's been sitting a lot lately and my recent trips in it were very short distances. So I went to charge the battery but also wanted to investigate the parasitic draw. It was pulling steady .7A after settling (after disconnecting trunk light). I pulled one fuse at a time from trunk fuse box while watching the draw, did same with the relays.... Eventually realizing each SSP1-4 circuit was accountable for 140mA of the draw.... with everything reconnected I let it sit, couple hours later I came back and draw was milliamps, so essentially zero. So I concluded that was all probably normal operation and not responsible for draining my battery.
Next day I go to start it and get nothing.. no crank, no clicking whatsoever. Electronics/dash all seem to power up normally, lights on and seat moves, etc. Initially I was afraid I damaged something electrically which is why I mentioned all the above. With key on I plugged in an OBDII tool and its giving me P0183. Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input?
Been reading some past threads so here is what I've done so far:
Fully charged the battery, no change. Also disconnected battery terminals for a period of time to fully reset the electronics, in case I did so in a strange/intermittent way while doing power draw tests. Also cleaned and reconnected the battery ground wire where it bolts to the body.
PATS light: stays solid for a couple seconds then turns off when car first gets powered... stays solid red while "cranking" key.
Cranking key does appear to be pulling some amperage though as voltage dips, basically to 12.0V or just under, then returns above 12.3V after stopping.
Starter fuse under hood and starter relay fuse in cabin look good. Starter relay under hood looks good - brought it inside and it tests out okay.
Just today got myself access to the starter terminals... B does read battery voltage, 12.5V or so. S and M have low resistance to ground when not cranking (wasn't sure if they should be floating? guess not).
While cranking: S goes up to about 10V. M just goes up to about 0.7V.
With those readings, is the starter definitely bad? Wasn't sure if there could still be other things happening or were just coincidence... especially confused about the P0183 code as I hadn't seen that one before.
Thanks for reading.