No Heat Help

00blkV6

00blkV6

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Hey everyone I am having a problem with the heat in my 2000 LS V6. I have no heat what so ever I know that i am having cooling fan issues because in city driving it runs warm and highway driving its fine. The cooling fan spins but not very fast.. But would't my cooling fan not working make my heat work better. My AC works fine nice and cool any help would be appreciated thanks Derek.
 
The most common cause is air in the cooling system. (That is usually caused by a leak in the cooling system.)
Start by following the correct procedure to bleed all air from your cooling system.
Next, check the three heater hoses. They should be very hot (with engine warm and AC set to 90). Check them near where they go into the dash.

If they are cold, and you got all the air out, then either the DCCV is failed closed (very unusual), or the heater cores are both clogged (very unusual).

If they are hot, then your cold-air-bypass door is stuck. Run the climate control self diagnostics to confirm this.
 
how do you run climate control self diagnostics????
joegr said:
The most common cause is air in the cooling system. (That is usually caused by a leak in the cooling system.)
Start by following the correct procedure to bleed all air from your cooling system.
Next, check the three heater hoses. They should be very hot (with engine warm and AC set to 90). Check them near where they go into the dash.

If they are cold, and you got all the air out, then either the DCCV is failed closed (very unusual), or the heater cores are both clogged (very unusual).

If they are hot, then your cold-air-bypass door is stuck. Run the climate control self diagnostics to confirm this.
Click to expand...
 
got all 8's in the self test and the three hoses into the heater core are warm but not HOT..
 
00blkV6 said:
got all 8's in the self test and the three hoses into the heater core are warm but not HOT..
Click to expand...

Most likely: Air in the cooling system (because the hoses are not hot).
Less likely: Both heater valves stuck closed. (They usually fail in the full open position.)
Least likely: Both heater cores plugged. (The odds on one plugging are low, both would be very unlikely.)

Also, you can unplug the electrical connector at the DCCV to rule out some weird failure of the climate control module. The valves go to full open (full heat) when they are unplugged.
 
Yep

JOEGR, YOU REALLY KNOW YOUR STUFF! Great job as always. I was thinking to unplug the DCCV then he would get full heat and could tell if the DCCV was going bad. If he has an 2000 V6 I would say the DCCV is most likely bad. The hydraulic fan or the fan pump maybe going bad to. Before you spend the 1000's of dollars to fix the fan system, check out the recent thread on electric fan replacement for under $100. Looks like a winner.
 
So today i bleed the system agian I unplugged the dccv and still no heat.. The Heater core hoses are cold and so are the hoses on top of the dccv are cold any help would be awesome its starting to get a little chilly lol. Thanks Guys
 
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Okay, this is getting confusing. You say the heater hoses are hot at the dash, but not at the DCCV. That doesn't seem to add up. Do you have something to measure the actual temperatures with? (Harbor Freight sells cheap non-contact, point and shoot ir thermometers.)

Does your coolant temperature gauge on the dash quickly go to the center position and stay there?

It seems like there are three things to figure out here.
1. Is your coolant getting hot enough?
2. Is coolant flowing through the heater cores?
3. Is air flowing through the heater cores?
 
The temp gauge does go up rather quickly probably within a mile of driving its at the halfway mark. The heater core hoses are not hot they are warm but not hot the hoses on the dccv are cold.. I figured the the heater core hoses were just getting a little warm due to the heat caused by the enigine. Sorry for all the confusion.
 
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Sounds llike

OK, sounds like your thermostat is stuck, its a quick fix.

The hot coolant travels thru the DCCV to the heater so if the heater hoses are warm then the DCCV hoses must be warm.

There is a bleed valve next to the degas bottle, open it with a screw driver when the engine it hot, is the coolant hot? watch out! don't burn your fingers.

You can just loosen the screw to let the coolant drip out.

You might also need a new degas bottle cap, maybe its not holding the pressure.

When the DCCV goes bad the usual symptom is that you get one vent blowing hot air and the other blowing cold air. Check both passenger side and driver for a temp difference while running the A/C.

Just throwing some ideas at you. :) My 01V6 is a major pain when it comes to heating and cooling. Mostly caused by cracking, leaking, air in system and Hydraulic fan failure. I was surprised to find the car will run and not overheat with the fan not working at all.
 
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yahoo!

So this morning I go out to start my car, its 37f. starts right up and water temp goes to half way. But NO HEAT! wtf! I replaced the DCCV a few years ago... So I play with the controls and I get a little heat on the Drivers side only!! Stop and park at work, then go home, NO HEAT again! WTF? The connector for the DCCV is on the fan shield in front of the engine, easy to get at. So I park the car turn off the engine but turn on the ignition so the DCCV has power. I unplug the connector and gently plug it back in and listen for the 2 solenoids to click on, I only hear one clicking on, so I rock and gently move the connector in and out to turn the solenoids, so I'm rocking the connector back and forth, in and out and finally hear the sound of two solenoids clicking, so I do it quickly a few more times to confirm they both are working...reconnect and start the car,,,,,,heat!! out of both sides!!!!
 
tireman said:
So this morning I go out to start my car, its 37f. starts right up and water temp goes to half way. But NO HEAT! wtf! I replaced the DCCV a few years ago... So I play with the controls and I get a little heat on the Drivers side only!! Stop and park at work, then go home, NO HEAT again! WTF? The connector for the DCCV is on the fan shield in front of the engine, easy to get at. So I park the car turn off the engine but turn on the ignition so the DCCV has power. I unplug the connector and gently plug it back in and listen for the 2 solenoids to click on, I only hear one clicking on, so I rock and gently move the connector in and out to turn the solenoids, so I'm rocking the connector back and forth, in and out and finally hear the sound of two solenoids clicking, so I do it quickly a few more times to confirm they both are working...reconnect and start the car,,,,,,heat!! out of both sides!!!!
Click to expand...

That's really weird. The DCCV's go to full heat when they are unplugged or have no electrical current flowing. I think that what really happened is that your valve(s) were mechanically stuck and your messing with the assembly freed them up. I would look very closely at the assembly. I bet you will find that it is leaking a very slight amount of coolant into the solenoids.
 
Hey Joe

I did a tear down report on the DCCV and yes the coolant does flow up to the solenoids and around the piston. Any tiny bit of debris can lodge around the piston and jamb it. The solenoid itself is nothing more than a sealed coil around a plunger, when the power is applied the plunger is drawn back into the coil area. Now about my theory.......there are two other possibilities,,,,one a bad wire near the connector or the connector contact surfaces are corroded and/or have poor conductivity. These 10 year old cars develop electrical problems due to poor conductivity. When I lived in Ohio, we would use sandpaper to get the rust off the ground wires all the time.
 
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unpluged the dccv while ingition was in acc postion and listened i didnt hear the soleniods click on so i the i found the problem.
 
00blkV6 said:
unpluged the dccv while ingition was in acc postion and listened i didnt hear the soleniods click on so i the i found the problem.
Click to expand...

Maybe so, maybe not. It could be an electrical failure instead (but it is more likely to be the DCCV). Also, it would only click if the climate control was calling for less than maximum heating.

I know that people here (myself included) like to avoid the dealer, but maybe it's time you went for a proper diagnosis, instead of starting to throw parts at it?
 
Hey Joe

So last night I'm driving around with heat in the cool weather, yeah I thought I fixed it with the electrical on/off routine with the solenoids. Not so! I get up to go to work, no heat!, crap......ok after work I check the solenoids again with the connector unhooked and pushing it together, in and out, to hear the solenoids open and close,,,,,,ok, i'm hearing them click, both of them. WTF? So I put the car up on ramps and check the DCCV from below, all hoses and wires look good, checked all hoses to the firewall,,,,,hot, hot, hot! So what does that tell me??? DCCV is releasing hot coolant to the heater core....so why no interior heat,,,,,must be like joe says,,,,air in system,,,,so with the car tilted on the rack I open the bleed screw near the coolant tank, rev the engine to about 2k,,,,air! So I continue bleeding till I get a nice even flow. Sealing the bleed screw, I check the interior vents,,,,nice and warm, both sides! Thanks Joe! I let you know if this works.
 
Thanks for the all the help guys. I think im going to get a dccv and see what the that does for me.
 
oh fudge!

Everything seemed to be working last night, now this morning no heat again! Looks like others are having the same problems that we are!
 
tireman said:
Everything seemed to be working last night, now this morning no heat again! Looks like others are having the same problems that we are!
Click to expand...

Try bleeding again. You may have a leak that is constantly letting air back in. The reservoir would be one place to look.
 
Hey Joe

Think I found it.....rebled the system and got hot air. Let it sit for 20 minutes then no hot air?!?!?? Ok, in the Ford manual it says I can test the DCCV thru the connector. You unplug the connector and test the resistance of the solenoid coils between several pins, if the resistance is between 10-23 ohms, the DCCV is no good.
The pins are - upper left and bottom right,,,,lower left and bottom right.
looking directly into the socket you see 6 female pin slots, 2 rows of 3. connect a dvom between the upper left and lower right to check resistance, then the other LL and LR.
If resistance above or below 10-23 ohm, then you start checking the wiring to the DCCV.
My reading on both was 17.5 ohms! So its off to the store for a new DCCV!
 
tireman said:
Think I found it.....rebled the system and got hot air. Let it sit for 20 minutes then no hot air?!?!?? Ok, in the Ford manual it says I can test the DCCV thru the connector. You unplug the connector and test the resistance of the solenoid coils between several pins, if the resistance is between 10-23 ohms, the DCCV is no good.
The pins are - upper left and bottom right,,,,lower left and bottom right.
looking directly into the socket you see 6 female pin slots, 2 rows of 3. connect a dvom between the upper left and lower right to check resistance, then the other LL and LR.
If resistance above or below 10-23 ohm, then you start checking the wiring to the DCCV.
My reading on both was 17.5 ohms! So its off to the store for a new DCCV!
Click to expand...

It's possible that the DCCV is the source of the leak, and therefore the problem. However, 17.5 ohms is the correct reading for coil resistance. The service manual says that any resistance between 10 and 23 is good. 17.5 is between 10 and 23. In fact, it's almost exactly in the middle, where you would expect it to be. Another way to look at the spec is that the resistance should be 16.5 ohms +/- 40% or 16.5 ohms +/- 6.5 ohms.
 
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