New Transmission Solenoids, New Transmission Problem!

+1 to everyone who said tranny adapative learn strategy. a 4hr drive alone probably did not reset it completely. i dont feel like looking it up exactly but turn your car on and let it get to normal operating temp. let it idle for 1 min in P once fully warmed. turn on a/c for 1 min. turn on defrost for one min. use shifter to shift between every possible selection x5 or 10(i think its 5 but i would do 10 for sh*ts and giggles). also start in d4, accelerate normally to 45 mph, cruise for at least 15 seconds, then throw it to d5 and accelerate to 55mph and cruise for at least 15 seconds repeat X5 chances R you probably did everything else in your 4 hr cruise. the one thing i would also recommend (never saw this in a book) is if you normally do not let your car warm up all the way, go through all the options with the shifter x5 or 10 when its cold too. sometimes i get a delay when its cold bc i normally let it get off C before i do anything. lastly you need to have idle in d5 for 5 mins (i dont remember exact minutes, it might be 3 mins).
after doign all that i think the only thing that you might not have done (unless you drive pretty wild) would be something with the throttle. you will notice it if you do like a rolling stop or a sharp turn and then go immediately to WOT, you will get a huge delay the first 5 times. i dont remember what the procedure to set it is off the top of my head and dont feel like combing through a thousand pg book. you wont notice that one anyways unless you drive like a crazy person on the reg

More than half of this makes no sense to me... Turn on the A/C? Turn on the Defroster? What does that have to do with the transmission? Maybe it's just my lack of knowledge relating to the LS's PCM and transmission, but I don't see a relation between those at all.
 
That guy has been spreading troll bs for a while now. Ignore him.
 
More than half of this makes no sense to me... Turn on the A/C? Turn on the Defroster? What does that have to do with the transmission? Maybe it's just my lack of knowledge relating to the LS's PCM and transmission, but I don't see a relation between those at all.

good questions; a/c & defroster use the air compressor, which increases the load on the engine. your pcm is going to 'learn' parameters for best operation under the increased load.
 
More than half of this makes no sense to me... Turn on the A/C? Turn on the Defroster? What does that have to do with the transmission? Maybe it's just my lack of knowledge relating to the LS's PCM and transmission, but I don't see a relation between those at all.

No, it's because it is nonsense.

BTW, the ignore list here works really well, except when someone quotes the ignored person.
 
No, it's because it is nonsense.

BTW, the ignore list here works really well, except when someone quotes the ignored person.

no, you just dont understand how this electronically controlled transmission functions, just like everyone else who claims these cars have significant tranny issues. just like anything controlled by a computer, garbage input = garbage output. its all about how its calibrated, and if you run it out of spec for long enough you will wreck major components (namely solenoids). OP probably could have solved his problem by simply clearing the PCM, but since he was under warranty, might as well take it in and have the peace of mind. dealer clearly did not calibrate the tranny after working on it bc they told him to drive it to calibrate it (normal response bc it is time consuming and the average customer wont notice).

OP (and anyone else interested), i can look up the exact text to calibrate your tranny when i get a minute. PM me if interested, i printed it out but its at my other office. i am struggling to find it in the books with a casual search
 
Dude, after the initial cal it continuously monitors the conditions and adjusts for any changes in shift timing. The average or above average customer won't pay for doing the drive cycle. And they don't have to as it will do so on it's own. But the DC is not all functions complete in it's approach and if you had any formal Ford training you would know this.

You keep harping in threads that the KAM has to be rebooted every so often and it doesn't. There is only one component change that needs to have the KAM rebooted.
Lincoln LS:

Drive Cycle LLS.jpg
 
Thats clearly inaccurate as it does not mention the A/C, the defroster, idling, etc
 
Dude, after the initial cal it continuously monitors the conditions and adjusts for any changes in shift timing. The average or above average customer won't pay for doing the drive cycle. And they don't have to as it will do so on it's own. But the DC is not all functions complete in it's approach and if you had any formal Ford training you would know this.

You keep harping in threads that the KAM has to be rebooted every so often and it doesn't. There is only one component change that needs to have the KAM rebooted.
Lincoln LS:

thanks for posting. finally someone capable of having an intelligent conversation on this chirps in. you are correct in that i have no formal ford training with an LS, never claimed to have such training. do you?

in a perfect world where the car is never driven with anything affecting a shift timing being out of spec you are 100% correct. but if something affecting a shift timing is out of spec and driven for a period, the pcm will compensate and have bad parameters as a result. said bad parameters will not be reset the moment you fire the car up with a new component or sensor to correct the problem. if a car has 15k miles worth of bad data and then all of a sudden gets new readings from sensors for 20 miles, it is not going to correct at the snap of anyones fingers. 15k > 20. it will practically take a whole drive cycle to adapt with the correct parameters anyways, so why not expedite the process and ensure that bad parameters are completely erased by disconnecting the battery and relearning with only new parameters? why keep parameters from an old component or sensor which is no longer part of the car especially if it was out of spec (which is the only reason a normal person would replace something to begin with)?

targeted drive cycles are recommended after almost every repair in that book. and you are correct that the posted drive cycle is not complete by any stretch, but it at least touches the major sensors and is a good starting point for anyone looking to get back in spec.

OP, your profile says youre in key west, keep in mind you wont be able to accurately reset major sensors if ambient temp reads 100+, that part didnt affect me bc it doesnt get that hot here so i didnt remember.

jjuncool go back and read for christs sake. it says to let it reach full operating temp (obv in idle) and also to let it idle for 2 min. i said what 3-5 mins? dam think of all that wasted fuel... that test is not complete and obv the load from the air compressor will affect every major component's function, you do not have a leg to stand on in that debate bud.
 
It never gets to triple digit temps here thank God. The gulf and the ocean mediate our temps. They max out in the low 90s. R-D delay is still there, but seems to be getting shorter. I installed my tune though and it seems as unhappy as ever during the 2-3 shift.
 
It never gets to triple digit temps here thank God. The gulf and the ocean mediate our temps. They max out in the low 90s. R-D delay is still there, but seems to be getting shorter. I installed my tune though and it seems as unhappy as ever during the 2-3 shift.

if its not too rough and only occasionally doing it i wouldnt sweat it. just keep driving and let it smooth itself out. 2-3 is pretty rough to begin with, but if it is so bad that it feels like you are running something over when it shifts 2-3 and makes a loud clunk noise, i would be concerned. had that happen once after turning my car into a boombox on wheels last summer and draining a battery. i was sweating, thought the tranny took a sh*t on me, but after running the drive cycle the dude posted above (with a few mods to get the car used to some of my more aggressive driving) the car stopped the clunking btwn 2-3.

coil replacement helped significantly with shift feel too, not sure what type of condition yours are in, but you may want to look into replacement, especially if you sense any light misfires or pronounced shuddering/limp mode when shifting btwn 2-3, 4-5, or when downshifting to 2.

One other thing that is coming to mind is calibrating your APP sensor. I cannot remember how that is done exactly, but i believe its something like key on ignition off, depress the accelerator all the way to the floor and hold for 10 seconds, repeat x5? i think if you turn off the radio and just listen you will hear some racket going on in the dash-are when it is saving the parameters down to the PCM for the APP. i would hold it down until you hear the computer making the noises, release until the computers stop making noises and repeat x5 just to be safe. also dont be afraid to hit WOT a few times to help set some sensors determine typical max values, i believe that will assist tp sensor and app sensor, among others

good luck w it
 

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