New Toy/Project - not running

[Caleb]

Howdy
I’m Caleb. New member here. New owner of a 2003 Lincoln LS!
Noticed a lot of knowledge in here, and notibly admired Joegr

bought car for $500. Turns over, doesn’t start. Previous owner replaced coils, fuel pump, mufflers, and so on to no avail.
First I noticed the alarm light was flashing really fast, which I’m presuming from research would prevent from starting. I also noticed when turning key to run, I did not hear fuel pump engage. Inertia trigger checked and is depressed.

did some checking - found that PCM diode was bad, and after placing a jumper wire in its place, the flashing light for alarm went away. Also found that Fuel Pump Motor Diode in the trunk was bad, and also with the jumper, I now hear fuel pump kick in!

going to pick up Diodes from ford dealership today and will update after that. Hoping that solves a problem.

I also noticed a large parasitic draw, between 4-6 Amps!
I began chasing this down. When pulling a 40AMP block fused Albee’s P/JB in the back, I found that it controlled 7-8 different fuses in the passenger compartment fuse box. Narrowed it down to 3 fuses, which are 7, 18, and 20. Not sure what’s causing the draw on these or if I can run without them, but one killed the remote lock/unlock. With all 3 removed I now have 0.04 amp draw. With the anti theft one in, (#7) I still Had 0.2 Amps draw.


Any advice appreciated! Feel free to hop along my journey!

 

[joegr]

... found that PCM diode was bad, and after placing a jumper wire in its place, the flashing light for alarm went away. Also found that Fuel Pump Motor Diode in the trunk was bad, and also with the jumper, I now hear fuel pump kick in!...I also noticed a large parasitic draw, between 4-6 Amps!...Narrowed it down to 3 fuses, which are 7, 18, and 20. Not sure what’s causing the draw on these or if I can run without them, but one killed the remote lock/unlock. With all 3 removed I now have 0.04 amp draw. With the anti theft one in, (#7) I still Had 0.2 Amps draw...

It really sounds like someone connected a battery (or jump start) backwards at some point and caused that damage. You may have to replace a few to several electronic modules. The good news is that they are cheap from pick-n-pull junk yards. The exact part numbers and even years (must all be 2nd gen though) don't have to match. You can run without fuse 18 in, but need the other two.
Do note that about 200mA is correct for an idle, but not yet sleeping car. You can wait 20/30 minutes without opening or closing anything or pressing any switches (key off), and see if it will go to sleep.
I strongly recommend that you get Forscan to help with all this. If nothing else, you can see which modules are communicating correctly. (Note that Forscan does not talk to the rear park assist module.)

 

[Caleb]

Joegr,
Thanks for input.

I left battery disconnected for 3 hours or more before checking the draw and this was my result, forgot to note that.
Duly noted on fuse 18.
Lastly, what is the Forscan you speak of?

 

[joegr]

That's not how to do it. The battery must be connected with the current meter in series while you wait the whole 20 to 30 minutes to see if it will be able to go to sleep. When you connect the battery (no matter how long it had been disconnected) everything wakes up on the car. If you interrupt the connection, or pull or insert fuses, or open or close something or press any switch, then the timer starts over and you have to wait another 20/30 minutes. If you are near the trunk, you can hear the SSP relays drop when it goes to sleep.

https://forscan.org/forum/
One (of many) know working adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Caleb]

That's not how to do it. The battery must be connected with the current meter in series while you wait the whole 20 to 30 minutes to see if it will be able to go to sleep. When you connect the battery (no matter how long it had been disconnected) everything wakes up on the car. If you interrupt the connection, or pull or insert fuses, or open or close something or press any switch, then the timer starts over and you have to wait another 20/30 minutes. If you are near the trunk, you can hear the SSP relays drop when it goes to sleep.

FORScan forum - Index page
One (of many) know working adapters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting, never knew to test this way. So forgive my ignorance then, but would you leave a terminal disconnected with one meter lead going to terminal and other to battery post? Maybe clamp lead down onto battery with pliers?

 

[joegr]

Yes, you have to find some way to have the meter connected firmly for the duration of the test. I always disconnect the ground cable from the battery. I use an extra battery post clamp that I keep for this use to connect the negative lead from the ammeter to the battery, then an alligator style test lead from the positive of the meter to the free end of the negative battery cable.

Example battery clamp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3S1LBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Example: alligator test leads: https://www.amazon.com/Sumnacon-Cro...ds=alligator+test+leads&qid=1589300247&sr=8-5

 

[Caleb]

Back to work - popped in new diode for PCM. Alarm light flashing has ceased. All fuses back in except the #18 as referenced above.

attempted to turn over a few times. I hear fuel pump kicking in fine. No start still. After turning over a couple times, I heard a relay under hood go to clicking repeatedly. I pulled the culprit (found it was #7 for fog lamp) then I heard one begin to click in the trunk compartment. That culprit was #1 SSP1 - what the hell is SSP1?

 

[joegr]

SSP = Switched System Power. Most of the electrical power on the LS goes through those SSP relays. They are needed. These are more symptoms suggesting widespread damage from reversed polarity or massive over voltage. -OR- your battery is now running low and needs to be recharged.

 

[Caleb]

SSP = Switched System Power. Most of the electrical power on the LS goes through those SSP relays. They are needed. These are more symptoms suggesting widespread damage from reversed polarity or massive over voltage. -OR- your battery is now running low and needs to be recharged.

Battery currently at 12.5
Took relays out, disconnected battery, put relays back in. Currently testing amp draw as you recommended earlier. Will update in 20 more mins when complete.
Could PCM be bad? Maybe the FEM? REM? Both?

 

[joegr]

12.5 at no load is a little low. A more telling reading the the battery voltage under load, like with all the lights on. You might check that after your parasitic drain test completes. Yes, any or all the electronic modules could be damaged. It seems that most of them are at least partially working.

 

[Caleb]

12.5 at no load is a little low. A more telling reading the the battery voltage under load, like with all the lights on. You might check that after your parasitic drain test completes. Yes, any or all the electronic modules could be damaged. It seems that most of them are at least partially working.

After completing 30 min test, I was down to 0.7 amp. (All fuses and relays back in position) so I went back to passenger compartment fuse box, and as soon as I opened the door, here comes the clicking. Starts with the fog lamp relay. Pull this, then ALL of the SSP relays in trunk go to clicking. So.. put them all in their place again, let her continue to click, then after pulling #20 10A fuse in passenger compartment, no more clicking.

with #20 removed, performed another draw test. After 30 mins, still pulling 0.2A. So still a little too much draw, but definitely huge improvement from before

this fuse controls FEM, REM, DATC, and cluster.

 

[Caleb]

Update - so parasitic draw confirms 0.7 amp draw after sleep mode. After pulling #20 in passenger, I ran another test and I am left with 0.2A. Still a little high. After pulling #7 in passenger compartment, I go down to 0.02A or the 200MA that is suggested.

I pull off wipers and the plastic cover, and removed air filter and box that holds it in to expose the big wiring harnesses. Found live wasp, a few nest in there, dirt dobber next, lost of fort, and a lot of little bugs. I suppose next I’ll start by cleaning all this out and see where that leaves me. I’ve seen ants and bugs stop an Air Conditioning unit from working when plugging up the contractor so who knows.

I should also add it looks like the sun roof was leaking because there was water coming in down the passenger door frame imand the head liner, and the passenger floor board is wet. Maybe water damaged something in the fuse box?

thoughts?

 

[joegr]

Update - so parasitic draw confirms 0.7 amp draw after sleep mode. After pulling #20 in passenger, I ran another test and I am left with 0.2A. Still a little high. After pulling #7 in passenger compartment, I go down to 0.02A or the 200MA that is suggested....

Your math is off here.

0.02A = 20 mA (about right for sleeping, anything under 50 mA is good)

200mA = 0.2 A. (fair for non-sleeping car with no lights on)

 

[Caleb]

You are right, my bad.

thanks for catching that.
I suppose we have narrowed it down to REM, FEM, or the connections. Or something in the fuse boxes.
Where are REM and FEM located?

 

[joegr]

I don't feel like it is really narrowed down at all, but...
The REM is behind the trunk light
The FEM is behind the driver's kick panel.

 

[Caleb]

I don't feel like it is really narrowed down at all, but...
The REM is behind the trunk light
The FEM is behind the driver's kick panel.

Thanks for locations.

if not narrowed down, then what would you be checking?

 

[joegr]

You need to communicate with the modules and see what their inputs are telling them and what states they are in.

 

[Caleb]

Well surprise. Not a good one. Came home, put fuses in, of course we get the clicking relays. Remote on fob not working to lock and unlock doors, no lights coming on, not even trying to turn over at all now. The e brake light in center console is flashing. What gives.

 

[joegr]

... What gives.

I really think that your battery is too low.

 

[Caleb]

I really think that your battery is too low.

still sitting at 12.5? Figured that would be enough.

 

[joegr]

still sitting at 12.5? Figured that would be enough.

Again, the voltage at no load is nearly useless, but if your meter is accurate, it does indicate that the battery is pretty discharged.
You need to at least read the voltage while things are clicking. Clicking relays and EPB problems are classic low battery symptoms. (Of course, it could be something else.)

 

[DuKeNoMaD]

Sorry to highjack this. But am just about to get my battery tested as suddenly went to 7-8 volts... probably just dropped a cell..but who knows... following in case I got a bad drain

 

[Caleb]

Again, the voltage at no load is nearly useless, but if your meter is accurate, it does indicate that the battery is pretty discharged.
You need to at least read the voltage while things are clicking. Clicking relays and EPB problems are classic low battery symptoms. (Of course, it could be something else.)

Ok putting battery on charger for a few hours. Will update again later.

I pulled apart fuse box in engine compartment, all looks good. Clean inside. Pull out big 3 wiring harnesses on firewall, all look clean inside. Will probably need to get the Forscan hooked up to see if one of the modules is bad, which is kind of my guess so far. Or water inside passenger compartment fuse box.

 

[Caleb]

Sorry to highjack this. But am just about to get my battery tested as suddenly went to 7-8 volts... probably just dropped a cell..but who knows... following in case I got a bad drain

Sorry to highjack this. But am just about to get my battery tested as suddenly went to 7-8 volts... probably just dropped a cell..but who knows... following in case I got a bad drain

well, if you read above you will see correct way to test for amp drain. You will have to get battery charged up good again first before you check though.

 

[DuKeNoMaD]

Bad new battery. Problem solved..now bleeding