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AbrahamLincoln said:
I def have a rock in my drivetrain so the carrier bushings will be a good mod.
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What are you talking about by "Rock" The carrier bushing do NOTHING more then dampen the "Hit" from the upward stroke of the rear. I have SOLID billet carrier bushings and saw NO difference at all whatsoever. Changing them to anything you want will not get rid of what your describing.
 
hmmm ill have to check the motor mounts tomorrow when its not hailing and thunderstorming!

what i mean by rocking is like when between accelerating and decellerating you can you can feel movement in the drivetrain when blipping the throttle. I'm sure its nothing serious... probably have a shot motor mount like you said. I notice the same thing in my jeep but 100 times worse. I'll let you know after i do the power brake test.
 
98LSC32V said:
A good baseline? Haven't you run like 14.3 before?
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my best 60 foot was 2.135.

i just grabbed a random slip wanted to jot it down.

R/T .405
60' 2.135
330 6.163
1/8 9.433
MPH 76.12
1000 12.234
1/4 14.606
MPH 95.21

heres another random one

.403
2.247
6.304
9.593
74.41
12.387
14.767
96.66
 
I dynoed very similar numbers with my 95 LSC and ran 13.8 at over 100mph... weight makes a big difference. My trunk was not only empty but gutted out, full interior.
 
yea but its not bad. im going to a truck weighing station tomorrow morning. I've been busy with my stand alone 1.8t 20v t3/t4 corrado :-)
 
on topic: car weighs 3880 with like a half a tank of gas and all my :q:q:q:q still in it (n20 bottle, system, 1 1/4 sway bar and random stuff scattered through my interior etc)

with me in it: 4180 ! eek...

so 254whp/255tq at 4180 4.10 lsd - Are these times accurate? 14.5@96 is my best with 2.1 60 foot. traction and weight are the issue obviously but now that i have concrete info i Just wanted to see if im in the realm of what the number should be vs my actual times. 14.6 @ 95 was my consitant run.
 
dang you only missed your estimate by 20lbs..good job,

my 95, with a full tank of gas with my fadazz in the seat weight 3970
My second gen was very very close to that number within 10ish lbs.

every 100 lbs you can lose is .1
Every .1 you you decrease your 60' times is worth .15-.2 in the 1/4 mile.

the most benifitial place to get gains is "go faster in the 60' " and lose weight on the car.
If you can get your 60's down, and lose some pork off the car, it'll "run a number".
 
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thats of the stand alone, - megasquirt going to run edis 8 coilpack
 
yea traction is a slight issue but not terrible. Also still feel some play in my drivetrain when the car shifts its bad when it goes from 3-4 going slow there is a noticable rocking feeling after the shift is completed.
 
next time i go, im going to run some more NA numbers, take the bottle out, take the system and amp out, i already have the spare tire out. Take all my bs stuff out of the interior cds jumper cables blanket some tools etc. I was at the track with about the same ammount of gas as when I weighed the car. I'm not sure all that is heavy on the car but i know moonroof and rag top is probably a good 50-100 lbs estimate. the snowflakes are light though so i have that going for me.

I'm not sure how hooking up with the lowered 1.5 suspension is beneficial or not. But I am looking to trade with someone for my lowered stuff because of how low the car sits. I have Tbird front springs from when i swapped my subframe over, im assuming they go in the front cuz everything else is Tbird. im not sure about the back leaf springs how that'll work. If the loweredness is beneficial then ill keep it. The handling is awesome, it drits like a champ. Lowered and that addco bar, but im not doing scca!
 
nope! ill do that today at work, it just slipped my mind. Also **** its been raining so the rag top was saturated with water when i weighed it! lol *****
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
doesnt your reaction time make a big difference? my best was .4
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the starting line has two seperate timers.

the RT clock and the ET clock.
The RT clock starts when the green light burns and stops when you move out of the stage beam, which at THAT point your ET timer begins.

RT has no effect on ET.

RT does help you beat faster cars though, as Cody mentioned above.
 
ok gotcha... hmm is 3880 with no driver pretty heavy for a markviii? I would go to the strip tonight but its been wet out earlier, not sure if the tracks going to be open or not. but im definetly going to go with less stuff in my car. I probably won't take off the bar because its kinda a pain to put back on and itll handle like crap on the way there, i think its like 40 lbs the addco one, its heavy! but not as heavy as the system for sure.
 
3880 empty is heavy for racin. Mine is 3900-3920 with me in it. Your car should run good on a diet.
 
AbrahamLincoln said:
ok gotcha... hmm is 3880 with no driver pretty heavy for a markviii? I would go to the strip tonight but its been wet out earlier, not sure if the tracks going to be open or not. but im definetly going to go with less stuff in my car. I probably won't take off the bar because its kinda a pain to put back on and itll handle like crap on the way there, i think its like 40 lbs the addco one, its heavy! but not as heavy as the system for sure.
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That weight is about right. I am 220 & Mine weighed 4026 at the last MM&FF article.
 
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