New suspension parts steering wheel has PLAY

nortyhat

nortyhat

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How is everyone doing. Ill try to keep this short and sweet. I just installed Inner/outer Tie rods, Lower Ball joints, Upper Control Arms, Rear/Front Stabilizer Bar Links, Tie Rod Ends, and got an alignment for SOME REASON why steering wheel has a LOT of play like I could move it left and right while driving and my tires would not react. Its like I have to turn it at lease 2 inches before my wheels start turning. Also I noticed while driving on the high way the steering wheel is moving by itself left and right like its steering for me. Any suggestions?
 
STOP driving it immediately and get it fixed, (accident waiting to happen)
2 inches play is way too much and doesn't sounds very safe to me!

Did a shop do all this work ?

How can they even do an alignment with so much play!
 
Something bad wrong!

Find that problem quick! Check your tie rod end links for play, jack up tire, hands 9 & 3 oclock, rock back and forth, should be tight not loose. If loose start looking at the link end.
 
Yes they did the work for me. I do not know how firestone did the alignment with so much play. Here is a picture of the alignment results, they told me the rear wasn't adjustable.

IMG_0103.jpg
 
I JUST got the end links installed....Thats why its frustrating I got everything installed besides shocks, mounts and lower control arms.
 
Might be time to find a better shop to do this stuff.

I wonder if they forgot to tighten the bolts holding the rack on?
 
Actually- come to think of it, when I had the new motor put in the techs forgot to reinstall the bolt that secures the two halves of te intermediate shaft together.

This lead to roughly 2" on either side of center where steering input resulted in no tire movement.
 
It's about an inch I want to clarify. Its not that bad only when I'm going fast it starts moving like someone is steering for me. I don't know how to explain it. Maybe I record it on my phone tomorrow to show you guys.
 
Ahh ... how bout you not ... and never mind filming nothing while going fast with that much play in your steering ?

It's not safe, there is something wrong, 2 inches, one inch, doesn't matter, there is not supposed to be any play in the steering what so ever.

Was it like this before you took it to this shop ?
Was it like this immediately as you left the shop or several months later ?

Dude, get it checked out, it's not safe, we really don't need to see a film clip of you at higher speeds illustrating the play in your steering wheel.

We can put two and two together and think of an out come.

If you paid large money or even any money for a certified shop to perform these kind of repairs and that is the end result, you call them and tell them to send a flat bed tow truck and demand they fix it correctly or you will threaten to have it inspected by a DOT office for compliance, see how fast they jump.

Mind you, this is based on the information you told us that you had a shop do this work and not yourself ... and the fact that they let the car leave their lot after you paid for services rendered.

Good luck with it all but I wouldn't continue to drive that LS with that much play in the steering.

Like i said, accident waiting to happen, something lets go, you are taking a sudden turn left or right and it's going to have consequences.
Fatal or not will be lady lucks decision not yours.

STOP driving it and get it FIXED. (please!)
 
What were the finding on this issue? I'm experiencing play in my steering while driving as well. All started after getting the Ball joints and control arms replaced
 
what did the shop that replaced them say?

did they also do the alignment?



my money is on something being loose.
 
First I had the my lower ball joints replaced at Merchants. They figure it was the alignment at first and then told me I had one upper joint needing replacement. I replaced both and it improved. Had a tire replaced and alignment done at Sears Auto, the play returned.

I also have the steering noise in low speed parking maneuvers. I found the resolution for that being Steering friction modifier. I wonder could this be the resolve to other problem.
 
Wow, you let Sears turn a wrench on your car? They make halfway decent tools, but have no idea how to use them. I'd suggest taking it by an actual alignment shop. It would not surprise me a bit if it was found that something was done underneath to ensure a return repair visit. You know, you take it back to complain about the alignment and they tell you the alignment is fine, but the whifflesprager is worn out and needs to be replaced for only 799.95. Yeah, it's expensive but tell ya what, I'll throw in one o' them little pine tree air fresheners for free.
 
When you look at the before and after toe angle of the alignment. It appears they removed some toe in angle so your steering is not going to be as tight as it used to be. Have them put the angle back to what is was before.
 
tireman said:
When you look at the before and after toe angle of the alignment. It appears they removed some toe in angle so your steering is not going to be as tight as it used to be. Have them put the angle back to what is was before.
Click to expand...

That "before" toe-in is way out, front and rear; that's why it's in the red. The LS should have pretty much zero toe-in.......

STOP THE PRESSES....... That was almost a YEAR ago!!!!!

I do agree that something is loose. How are the tie-rod ends??
 
I have a friend of mine here in Albany who took his car to midas for front end suspension work..when he left he had the exact..identical issues on I-87...he said that suddenly as it was drifting back and forth (the steering wheel) it yanked hard to the left with a pronounced "thud" and he almost flipped it in the median. I would absolutely not experiment in motion with a scenario like that..it is telling you that something is not right...I couldn't trust it without hitting a alignment shop..asap.
 
while we are on the topic of front suspension..can anyone advise rather it is more cost efficient for me to purchase a newer front sway bar from a 03-06 for my 00...or should I just replace the old bushings off of the existing sway bar.? I am being told that there is a newer sway bar with (molded) bushings instead of the one that I have (the bushings have slits in them that push on to the bar) I replaced these bushings about a year ago..and the bar is now banging again (same OEM bar). I'm worried if this constant banging is going to contribute to my sway bar links also going bad. Holding out on this repair until I receive the right guidance..(already got a brand new drive axle and carrier bearing ($400) sitting in my room that I thought I needed..and don't) lol.
 
Rojasnyc said:
while we are on the topic of front suspension..can anyone advise rather it is more cost efficient for me to purchase a newer front sway bar from a 03-06 for my 00...or should I just replace the old bushings off of the existing sway bar.? I am being told that there is a newer sway bar with (molded) bushings instead of the one that I have (the bushings have slits in them that push on to the bar) I replaced these bushings about a year ago..and the bar is now banging again (same OEM bar). I'm worried if this constant banging is going to contribute to my sway bar links also going bad. Holding out on this repair until I receive the right guidance..(already got a brand new drive axle and carrier bearing ($400) sitting in my room that I thought I needed..and don't) lol.
Click to expand...


I replaced the stabilizer bar on my old 2000 with the updated bar. No problems for the past 5 years. I paid to have it done as getting to the top bolt, passenger side was too much for my patience!!! Price being a factor, replace just the bushings if you can find them and have the patience. Otherwise, you can purchase the updated bar and have a shop install it. No alignment is necessary.....
 
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