New member: Head gasket failure?

At this point, I would look at it as if nothing was fixed, and start fresh. New radiator, hoses, thermostat. While you're at it, do a service and change plugs and wires to have piece of mine. The price you paid was pretty cheap. Put some investment in getting the car running correctly.
 
Psychostang said:
Did you do the pressure test yet? Combustion byproducts test?
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Not yet on the pressure test because I think it isn't worth it at this point. It appears that the original radiator was reinstalled and it has that plugged port. I will replace it with a tested and cleaned radiator. Yes it will be a used radiator, but it is only $55. If it turns out to not need a new engine then I will just go with this radiator. If we are going to swap engines then I might invest in a much better radiator too. For right now I just consider this a $52 test. I trust the place I am getting it from, and they did pressure test it.

Once the radiator is changed I will do the pressure test. I will probably pick up the radiator after work today. It is from a '97 T-bird.

Hmm, I suppose I could do that byproducts test FIRST before buying a used radiator...that might be a good idea...

Thanks for the suggestion!
 
You might have crud in the system gumming it up. Get some vc9 from a ford dealer. Run it in there with distilled water for an hour then rinse and fill with coolant.
 
Sapperfire said:
At this point, I think someone with more knowledge of the car needs to assess the damage before he starts installing parts on a possible parts car
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Now that I know the rarity of the D.A. I would never part it out. I'll put an engine in it if I have to. The only parts we are talking about so far are a water pump and thermostat, which I could swap to the next engine, and a radiator which it needs no matter what. I bought a block test kit from Autozone. That's the next thing I will do; run the test and see if it comes back positive for hydrocarbons.

With antifreeze and a other parts I am still less than $150 into it plus the purchase price. The radiator swap will add cost, but I need that anyway. The cost of antifreeze is starting to add up.
 
Jacksun said:
You might have crud in the system gumming it up. Get some vc9 from a ford dealer. Run it in there with distilled water for an hour then rinse and fill with coolant.
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OK, I might do that. I assume I have to flush the system with water first? I can't just drain it because too much is left behind, right?
 
Since you don't have an oil cooler to clog just drain the system. Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing. Re install and fill with hose water. Drive around for like 10 minutes getting it up to temp drain repeat till its relatively clear. Then put in the chemicals with distilled water and drive it like on the interstate for an hour drain. Then rinse and repeat with distilled water to get the ph right and then refill with a good coolant.
 
Well, I'm pretty much convinced now that this engine is toast. Once the car is up to temp, and with the crossover plug in but the reservoir cap off, there is big time bubbling in the reservoir every time I spike the RPMs. If it did it a few times I could say it is air purging out, but it just never ends. Once I do the spikes the temp gets hotter and the fans run more often. If I drive it even a mile the temp will climb to the top of normal. The funny thing is, it did pass the block test I got from Autozone (hydrocarbon test), if I did it right. I followed the instructions but the dye stayed blue.

The lifter noise (if that's what it is) seems to be getting louder. Really this engine sounds like crap, even though it idles pretty smooth.

And then the blower fan wouldn't work today. I know, check the wiring behind the glove box. I did that. I tapped on the fan. Nothing. I didn't check the fuse yet.
 
..and now I'm reading stuff online that says it might not be the head gasket. No oil in the coolant, no coolant in the exhaust and it passes the hydrocarbon test. When the system heats up, the coolant needs to be able to enter te overflow tank through the overflow tube. It can't do that because it's not there. So it has to fill the overfow tank backwards. That and a clogged system from stop leak could still be the problem. I am listening to you guys' suggestions. I just spend too much time thinking...:rolleyes:
 
Don't spend too much time thinking...no hydrocarbon in the coolant is good thing.
You need to get the system working properly then go form there.
 
Try the vc9. I know its a chemical.flush for diesel coolant to break up the silicates that stick to casting sand.
 
Jacksun said:
Since you don't have an oil cooler to clog just drain the system. Remove the thermostat from the thermostat housing. Re install and fill with hose water. Drive around for like 10 minutes getting it up to temp drain repeat till its relatively clear. Then put in the chemicals with distilled water and drive it like on the interstate for an hour drain. Then rinse and repeat with distilled water to get the ph right and then refill with a good coolant.
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OK, I bought the stuff from Ford, and I've got a radiator. Yes it's used but it looks good to me. I don't think I can actualy drive the car around for an hour because I would have to have it bled succesfully or it will overheat. So I guess the simplified version would be to drive it around a little and let it run for a good long time before doing the final refill.

I also grabbed a blower motor off an XR7 and the resistor. I think they are a match.
 
Well, I change my mind a lot and decided that since it was not practical to do a thorough flush, I would pass on the VC9 cleaning. At least for now.

So today I installed a different radiator and also took my friend's suggestion to temporarily go without a thermostat. We cut apart the old thermostat so it basically had no center and installed it with the o-ring to prevent a leak. The idea was that it absolutely should not overheat without a thermostat because it would be so easy to bleed and the flow would be wide open.

And it does not overheat now. The gauge stayed pegged on cold while we bled it and then I took it for a drive, basically up and down a road by the house. The speed limit is 55, but I gunned it to 65 a few times. No rise in temp occurred. I took it back to the house and let it idle for even longer while we checked the coolant level. I had gotten a low coolant warning a couple of times. The level seemed good, but I will check again, maybe tomorrow, with it cold. After idling for awhile the gauge did come up but only to the very bottom of normal. When I took it for another drive it quickly went back down.

I decided against driving it home to my house (45 miles). Right now it is at a friend's house who has a hoist. Next weekend I will replace the plug wires, because the last owner had cheap wires installed and I am concerned that they might be causing occasional misfiring. I will also put in stock plugs.
It still has some lifter noise. Hopefully next weekend I will bring it home in good running condition and with a good interior cleaning as well. I want it to look nice when my wife finally sees it.

I want to put some miles on it any make sure the temp acts how it should with no thermostat. Then I will put the thermostat back in and bleed it. I won't drive it far in below freezing temps and no thermostat.
 
good luck...but a positive start

I have a 97 I just picked up and I'm concerned about the engine hoping its ok but need to get some time and check it out
 
These cars can be a pain, if your still getting the low coolant message, with engine cold remove over flow tank cap and cross over cap and fill at cross over cap, after you replace the thermostat.

Good luck with the wife ;)
 
ford nut said:
These cars can be a pain, if your still getting the low coolant message, with engine cold remove over flow tank cap and cross over cap and fill at cross over cap, after you replace the thermostat.

Good luck with the wife ;)
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He has to replace the engine first :(
 
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