New ECM Program Question

Caleb

Active LVC Member
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Diboll TX
Hey Everyone, long time no see. back to work on a lincoln.
This time, we have a 2006 LS 3.9. Daughter & Son in Law were driving. Got a call the car died, seen/smelled smoke. Car turns over, but wouldn't start.
Went to check it out. Tested EVERY fuse, relay, and diode with a meter. all test came back normal. Proceeded to remove PCM. I heard a rattling noise (That cant be good).
I removed PCM from the metal casing to reveal the logic board, and what appears to be a voltage regulator broke off, and 50% of the board was black and burned out.
All wiring seems to be ok, no shorts anywhere I could find visually or with a meter.

Friend brought me a PCM off of a known working 2004 LS (parts car due to not having title)
Plugged up, and Failsafe mode went away (as did a Fuel Computer Data Error message)
Also, noted that the fan was stuck in high speed mode, this also went away with new PCM.

Plugged up Forscan, and all modules appear to be communicating as they should.
Car seemed to have started for a split second, but turned right back off.

My understanding is that someone with the correct equipment will have to program the new PCM to the current key, etc.
Is this correct? Cost? ideas?

Thanks in advance!!
 


ford locks down the PCM, only “new” units are supposed to be installed but there’s a trick to get around it. you need somebody with access to IDS
 


ford locks down the PCM, only “new” units are supposed to be installed but there’s a trick to get around it. you need somebody with access to IDS

Thanks for the info!

Hope I can find somebody with the program that doesn’t want my first born child as payment.

My understanding of why it won’t currently start (somebody correct me if I’m wrong) is because the key has to be programmed to the PCM - is this accurate? If so, could I possibly have a lock smith program a key to this computer and make it start?
 
Thanks for the info!

Hope I can find somebody with the program that doesn’t want my first born child as payment.

My understanding of why it won’t currently start (somebody correct me if I’m wrong) is because the key has to be programmed to the PCM - is this accurate? If so, could I possibly have a lock smith program a key to this computer and make it start?
It's a high probability but this may be a little more complex than you think ...computer at dealerships have problems I've heard from some people
 
It's a high probability but this may be a little more complex than you think ...computer at dealerships have problems I've heard from some people
Dealership said they could do it, only problem is they are booked 30 days out.

Spoke with another reputable repair shop in town that said he was able to do it same day. HOWEVER - he said the numbers on the tag on the PCM have to match. I need to check them one day this week.

If matching, he said he could reprogram PCM and keys no issue, all for $90

I will update more after I check the tags on PCM.
 
Someone help me out on this to confirm

The shop told me the numbers had to match on the computers for him to be able to rewrite the junkyard computer.

Attaching a picture for reference. Is the number I’m looking to match “EBG1” ?

80D480E3-B0F8-4226-92C7-F9EEA33170F0.jpeg
 
Someone help me out on this to confirm

The shop told me the numbers had to match on the computers for him to be able to rewrite the junkyard computer.

Attaching a picture for reference. Is the number I’m looking to match “EBG1” ?

View attachment 828576674
The calibration code for it is EBG1 I believe...can't remember 100% but I thought I heard that you need to use the same year if swapping
 
The calibration code for it is EBG1 I believe...can't remember 100% but I thought I heard that you need to use the same year if swapping
I can’t say ye or ne. All I can tell you is in the above referenced video, the guy mentions the 4 digit # on a tear tag is the same on both PCM’s. In addition, my guy at the shop told me a 3-4 digit number would have to match.

I have no clue on the year matching. Looking for a little insight before I make a purchase. I found a PCM for a decent price on eBay with matching tear tag code. Just want to be sure before I buy.

 

John, this is the same video previously attached. I watched it, just confirming my understanding that the tear tag has to match.

Also, attempting to confirm the previous comment from Amsterdutch who stated a possibility of the PCM having to be from the same year model vehicle.
 
Update -

I purchased the PCM I listed above with matching tear tag. I consulted with the shop first and they confirmed the matching numbers I needed.

Installed new PCM in car, and brought everything to the shop for programming.

They called and were able to get it programmed, and 2 new keys programmed. However, car still will not start. Turns over, but won’t start.

Where the heck else should I start checking?

Note the condition the old PCM was in by this picture..

8F9F4361-5A1A-46A2-8DAA-78CD5344CF65.jpeg
 
I have no idea what happened to your original PCM, but I would have checked all the connections to it before connecting another PCM. You may want to open up the "new' one and make sure it hasn't fried too.

Note that you don't really need a shop to marry another PCM. Forscan should be able to do that for you.
 
I have no idea what happened to your original PCM, but I would have checked all the connections to it before connecting another PCM. You may want to open up the "new' one and make sure it hasn't fried too.

Note that you don't really need a shop to marry another PCM. Forscan should be able to do that for you.
That would have been nice to know. I only have FORScan lite, I should probably get the full version.

I checked connections the best I could, I couldn’t find any issues, abnormal voltage, or short to ground.

We did connect FORScan and found we were able to talk to all the other modules present, so didn’t appear to be an issue with those.

Where should I be looking next?
 
I'm not sure. I would try Forscan with a live view of the crank and cam sensors and see what those do while cranking the engine. If those are rational, move on the to other things you need for the engine to start. Look for fuel injector pulsing and for spark.
 
You have 2 things that you need to check during cranking. You need spark and fuel. Buy a simple timing light and one spark plug cable compatible with the coil end of the LS coils. Use this cable with the timing light and measure ,if you have spark. If there is spark you need to check the fuel . Remove on spark plug crank the car and ask someone to check if fuel is coming out from the spark plug hole :) be careful not to smoke around. If both are present then its a sensor problem , if one of them is mising you need to find out , why its missing.
 
Update - the shop spent a couple more hours and ended up getting it programmed correctly and it’s working just fine!
 
If there is spark you need to check the fuel . Remove on spark plug crank the car and ask someone to check if fuel is coming out from the spark plug hole

OR... you can spray starting fluid into the throttle body while someone cranks the engine. If it fires up and runs for a couple seconds... you know you have spark.
 

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