New Brake Thing?

Hemihed426

Hemihed426

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My brakes have been acting weird lately. They were pulling to the right, I replaced both front rotors and pads, Vacuum check valve in booster. Seems better but still pulls sometimes more than others. I noticed today when I pulled in the garage, I had my foot on the brake and cut the car off my brake pedal started coming up. Is this indicitave of a bad booster? Shouldn't the check valve hold some vacuum for awhile after the engine is cut off? Maybe its done this all the while and I never noticed it.
 
Pulling can be caused by lots of things really. Did you happen to check the slide pins and lubricate them?
 
Pins are greased, new upper and lower control arms and strut rod bushings. Tie rod ends are good, new front rubber brake hoses.
 
Odd then. Aligment? Might be worth getting checked. I had mine done just to have it go off after 100 miles.
 
I've heard about more than one person having odd brake problems with pulling to the right or the left... don't remember any solutions though.
 
bad strut rod bushings can cause this also bad ball joints or bad tires or bad tie rods inner or outer even bad struts can cause pulling so do a full inspection of your suspension
 
Hemihed426 said:
My brakes have been acting weird lately. They were pulling to the right, I replaced both front rotors and pads, Vacuum check valve in booster. Seems better but still pulls sometimes more than others. I noticed today when I pulled in the garage, I had my foot on the brake and cut the car off my brake pedal started coming up. Is this indicitave of a bad booster? Shouldn't the check valve hold some vacuum for awhile after the engine is cut off? Maybe its done this all the while and I never noticed it.
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My limited experince says a sticking caliper piston. Remote, but possible is a bad proportioning valve. I had a Suburban with 13,000 miles and finally convinced an indepenedent mechanic to pull it and when he did you wouldn't beleive the crap that came out in the brake fluid. Flushed fluid,new proportioning valve, all was well. Did you properly bleed all lines in the right order?
 
Yea, I had the front end aligned after the control arms and strut rod bushings. I bled the brakes after the new calipers and lines. :confused:
 
swap the calipers right to left, you gotta get creative bleeding them (bleeders will be upside down) try putting a 2x4 in the opening where the pads go, hold it the right way to bleed it, and see if the pull moves.
 
a bad wheel bearing will also cause "drift" when braking
 
My vic had a wheel bearing go out that caused the car to shake and vibrate... when I braked they pulled weird and vibrated like my rotor were shot...

A new wheel bearing fixed everything!
 
theres many things that could cause a brake pull, the real question is when did the pull start? before or after you replaced all the front end parts?
 
Problem solved! I replaced the booster and master cylinder and the problem went away. I have no idea why, doesn't the proportioning valve differentiate front and rear?not side to side. I had pretty much replaced everything else so I figured what the hell I'd try the MC and booster. PITA to get under the column and get the booster bolts out, I'm 6'5 and 280 lbs and I don't fit under there very good. Had to take the seat out. I love these cars and hate them at the same time. All is well now and the MK will stop on a dime straight and true. Go figure.
 
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