Need some technical assistance

termin8r

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So the mark has finally started to act its age, new motor new trans built converted from air for starters. Here's the problem, I've had a check engine light on that registered bank 2 lean. I replaced the upstream 02 and it fixed the problem. The next day I goosed it at a stoplight to get out the way of a big rig and of course trac control kicked in shutting her down but it stuttered pretty bad. A few hours later on the way to dinner the check engine light came on again and this time anything other than wot it sputters and kicks like a mule almost like its leaning out. Now at wot its all out no issues so I limped it home and ran a diagnostics on it with my handheld, now it says 02 bank 1 sensor 1 is out. no biggie figured that would happen after replacing bank 2 sensor 1 o and I used motorcrafts only! here's the issue after replacing the 02 sensor and shutting the light off I fired it up drove to work no issues and blam!! All hell broke loose!! Now my diagnostic center says everything is out from my coolant temp sensor to trac control I mean everything the diagnostic center checks in the car is bad lol. I call bs but for situation sake I replaced the temp sensor with a borg warner cause its easy to get to to see if I got any results. No still says everything is bad, I decided to check my battery, BAD at 100% charge at 12.7 volts, So in went another optima, started the car again and all hell is still breaking loose car is going retarted. So I put my handheld on the car and checked the alternator thinking it had to be the demise of the battery and probly isn't giving the car enough juice to operate fully. Tested at 14.6 volts good regulator good diodes, but only 54amps.

Now my question is I believe the alternator is good because it will not go to full voltage until the battery drops below 12v and being a new battery it should run wide open right?

And secondly Im guessing my computer has taken a dive? Any help or prior experiences would be great to know...
 
So no crazy AC signal from the alternator, that is what you mean by good diodes?

I wouldn't consider 12.7 a bad battery, even an yellow or blue top that can charge up to 13/13.2 volts, the low end is still 12.4, and 12.7 for a normal lead acid battery is the high end.

Does all the craziness only happen when it is running? Sounds like the alternator but possibly could be a grounding issue.
 
No on a load test the battery tested bad, it bottoms out on a load. alternator and battery were tested on an autometer handheld from work (oreillys) the handheld tells you if the reg diodes etc are functioning and what the amperage is all while the car is running.
 
I was thinking alternator. Do you have a spare alt or computer? Im pretty sure it has to be one of the two. I am leaning toward the alt being it happened after you gave it a wot run.
 
Now my diagnostic center says everything is out from my coolant temp sensor to trac control I mean everything the diagnostic center checks in the car is bad

Either a bad alternator or a bad ground. Leaning toward the alternator, a bad ground doesn't usually appear like this. Alternators do funny things in these cars. Just because you have a certain sign that it's good doesn't mean it actually is.
 
I figured the alternator vs computer due to low voltage, I figured the computer wasn't getting a good signal but idk, it just hits me weird it tests good but is at 50ish amps.
 
I just had some alt problems on my 97. The old alt had corrosion where the rectifier screws onto the alt. Chances are that it was losing the ground. I'd disconnect the battery for awhile and give the electronics a rest, sometimes they come back.
 
Should just pull the Alt and set it on a nice comfy pillow, maybe crack a beer open for it and let it watch some TV
 
I vote alternator too. They can do some crazy stuff on Lincolns. When the one on my 93 went out, just the battery light would flash, but the one on my Town Car raised hell with everything. Every warning light on the dash came on and it lit up like a Xmas tree.
 

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