Need Help With Brake Upgrade

nortyhat

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I asked this before. but i didnt get what i really wanted. but im really stuck on buying these brakes and rotors and lines. i was comparing the stoptech brake kit stage 2 with the ebc brakes on lskoncepts.com. i really need to know which one is better. im putting size 20' rims on my car and just going to be driving it to and from work. but i wanted a better brake kit on my car with steel lines etc. which one is best for me all around. thank you. i prefer a vote:)
 
I guess the question is, why do you want to improve the brakes? Is it for looks or performance? The stock brakes are fine for the daily driver like you seem to be using your car. But since you're going with 20's, I think you're less concerned with performance than you are with looks. So, go with which ever looks better to you. Let cost be the deciding factor. Other than that, I don't think you'll get any hard data from anyone about which ones are better. At that level, it probably comes down to personal preference.
 
i understand but i hear people say that the rims are heavy so they need better stopping so i decided to get some. but im not looking for looks. so thats not the problem im looking for better braking with 20 inch rims.
 
I would be amazed if you could notice any difference at all with the 20 inch rims. Seriously. You are looking at a whole lot of money for this too. A brake upgrade is good if you are going to use it. In this case, I wouldn't do it. Drive the car with the new wheels and the factory brakes. I think you'll be satisfied.
 
I think ordering everything the stage 2 kit has from ken will be a little cheaper, but it's up to you on what you want.
 
I bet just a set of steel braided lines and pads would make a big difference.
 
KD00LS said:
I bet just a set of steel braided lines and pads would make a big difference.
The biggest difference would definitely be the stainless steel braided lines. That will firm up the brake pedal more than anything else. Of course, a good set of brake pads will help too.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
I would be amazed if you could notice any difference at all with the 20 inch rims. Seriously. You are looking at a whole lot of money for this too. A brake upgrade is good if you are going to use it. In this case, I wouldn't do it. Drive the car with the new wheels and the factory brakes. I think you'll be satisfied.

On the contrary, increasing the diameter increases the moment of inertia greatly. Mass and radius increases and the I will have a big jump. He WILL notice a big difference in acceleration and in braking. I=mr^2

Upgrading brakes is a good idea. I'd start with a set of good Hawk or EBC pads and move on from there. SS brake lines will improve pedal feel, but will have less of an effect on overall braking performance. Do the pads first and see if you have issues with fading. If you do, then you need to upsize the brake components as that will affect the available surface area for friction and thermal mass. Brakes are heat sinks after all.
 
ND4SPDLSC said:
On the contrary, increasing the diameter increases the moment of inertia greatly. Mass and radius increases and the I will have a big jump. He WILL notice a big difference in acceleration and in braking. I=mr^2

Upgrading brakes is a good idea. I'd start with a set of good Hawk or EBC pads and move on from there. SS brake lines will improve pedal feel, but will have less of an effect on overall braking performance. Do the pads first and see if you have issues with fading. If you do, then you need to upsize the brake components as that will affect the available surface area for friction and thermal mass. Brakes are heat sinks after all.

You guys crack me up! How the hell is he going to have "issues with fading" going to and from work? If you are not going to autocross or open track the car, the stock LS brakes are more than adequate even with 20" wheels. If you insist on upgrading, try Porterfield R4S front pads. If you need more, install steel-braided lines.
 
upgrading to 20s on an LS doesn't add enough rotating mass for there to be a need for an upgraded brake system that costs a good bit. yes, the wheels do add rotating mass and ideally you might want to upgrade the brakes, but in reality, a good set of pads that are properly installed with rotors that are in good condition as well as some ss brake lines and fresh, clean, water free brake fluid will be all you will need. save yourself the money.
 
ND4SPDLSC said:
On the contrary, increasing the diameter increases the moment of inertia greatly. Mass and radius increases and the I will have a big jump. He WILL notice a big difference in acceleration and in braking. I=mr^2

Your physics is correct...but as I mentioned...I don't think he will notice it. Besides, you're making a critical error. The "lever" that is important here is not related to tire diameter...it's the brake rotor diameter. That's why manufacturers go to larger diameter rotors...to place the caliper further away from the centerline and create a longer lever. Tire and wheel weight being somewhat equal, the brakes have no idea...nor do they care...what diameter tire is on the car. Acceleration does make a difference if the tire is taller due to gearing. But it's possible the low profile 20's are near the same height as the stockers. Since the tire and wheel are unsprung weight, the weight of the new tire and wheel can make a difference in stopping and accelerating. But I'm betting the 20's are actually as light...if not lighter...than the stock set up. Those things are heavy.
 
nearlyhalfamile said:
yes, the wheels do add rotating mass

As I mentioned above, if that is true, then ND4SPDLSC's comments are true to a point. But what I'm saying is the amount of mass difference is not anywhere near enough to make a noticable difference. I'm also saying it's very possible the new tires and wheels are as light or lighter than the stockers.
 
I've never had a vehicle with rims over 17", but if you keep the overall tire diameter the same, does the wheel really weight that much more with larger rims? Wouldn't the lower profile tire offset some of the weight and rotating mass?

I would think a chunk of steel belted tire would weigh somewhere near a comparable size of aluminum?

Just wondering out loud...
 
Rotating mass can make a big difference in performance. It takes power to get them moving. It's also unsprung weight. I picked up 15 hundreths in my race car simply with wheels. That is HUGE! But factory wheel and tire packages are notoriously heavy...so it is very likely going to the 20's with the lower profile tires will indeed weigh less than the stock units they replace.
 

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