Well that sucked. Replaced the rear pads using the little square thing, because I didn't want to let the brakes go anymore because they were making noise. JUST got over tendonitis in the right elbow, and now it's hurting pretty bad again.
For future reference should anyone else find this thread, both calipers screw in CLOCKWISE. And, it must be screwed in all the way. I thought I had one all the way in but it was 2 turns short, and the caliper wouldn't clear the pads. Initially it won't want to turn but once it starts to turn it gets, well, not easy but it's not difficult. It helps to remove the rotors then reattach the caliper, the car then becomes the vice that holds the caliper in place. If you do it this way a 2x4 between the back of the caliper and the A arm will keep it in place so you can push on the wrench while turning. The little cube is not stable, but using a 3/4 inch socket and short extension helps with stability. When you do this, always replace the hardware, in my case I thought one of the calipers might have been hanging, turns out the hardware got some water in and was rusty. New hardware, no problems. Rather than the cheap little cube, which works with difficulty, the professional brake rotating kit with the backing plate would be a lot faster and a LOT easier.
^)
