Need a 2nd gen V8 motor or viable alternative to swap

SultanGris

SultanGris

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Trying to put another motor in my 2003, having trouble finding one. Got two from a junk yard but they were both garbage, they're trying to locate another but so far no luck. Lincoln dealer wants 8900 for a rebuilt one, are there any other options? Can anything else be swapped in easily or are they all a pain in the ass? I thought I read on here somewhere about a Jaguar supercharger swap in but I imagine that's a pretty involved process. Cars not worth much but I've already put 3 or 4k into it, it's not in good enough shape interior wise to justify an 8900 motor, looking for low mileage motors or other options, thanks.
 
Ebay

engine 2003 2004 2005 2006 lincoln ls 3.9l ford thunderbird

2nd engine 55k
3rd. engine 67k
Both Richland MS OK Auto Parts US49 South of Jackson

Time for a road trip!
 
Check the Ebay Auction

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" engine 2003 2004 2005 2006 lincoln ls 3.9l ford thunderbird :

2nd engine 55k $1750
3rd. engine 67k. $1750
 
@SultanGris $8900? Is that price for installation too or just for the engine itself? I got a 06 LS setting outside my house right now that took a good shot in the back by some kid in a Ford Excursion with one of those steel brush bar bumpers on it around 60mph. It still runs and drives great. But it got into the passeger side quarterpanel pretty good and pushed it forward about 2 inches over the back passenger door. Depending on which way i can work the insurance company to get the most money out of it, i might get to keep it or buy it back from them. If so i may have a engine and alot of other good parts for sale. Its got 169,710 miles on the motor and 20,318 miles on the $2,200.00 rebuilt transmission. Only thing is if you are needing a motor right away im not sure exactly when my insurance claim will settle.
 
Buckie said:
@SultanGris $8900? Is that price for installation too or just for the engine itself? I got a 06 LS setting outside my house right now that took a good shot in the back by some kid in a Ford Excursion with one of those steel brush bar bumpers on it around 60mph. It still runs and drives great. But it got into the passeger side quarterpanel pretty good and pushed it forward about 2 inches over the back passenger door. Depending on which way i can work the insurance company to get the most money out of it, i might get to keep it or buy it back from them. If so i may have a engine and alot of other good parts for sale. Its got 169,710 miles on the motor and 20,318 miles on the $2,200.00 rebuilt transmission. Only thing is if you are needing a motor right away im not sure exactly when my insurance claim will settle.
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That's just for the engine, but he said it has a 100,000 mile warranty, which I find hard to believe but I haven't checked the info myself. Price sounds outrageous for an engine that old and I've never heard of that good a warranty on a rebuild. I only got a 2 year warranty on the new block in my super duty after a dumb mechanic forgot the filter was disconnected and turned the key on to check something and dumped fuel down my intake into the #8 cylinder and blew it up.

Yours is V8? I might be very interested in that depending on the price, I'm not in a rush. Keep me posted! Thanks.
 
Before you place the engine inside the bay, let me know. I have found some time savings thing that add the enjoyment of the Lincoln LS.
 
SultanGris said:
That's just for the engine, but he said it has a 100,000 mile warranty, which I find hard to believe but I haven't checked the info myself. Price sounds outrageous for an engine that old and I've never heard of that good a warranty on a rebuild. I only got a 2 year warranty on the new block in my super duty after a dumb mechanic forgot the filter was disconnected and turned the key on to check something and dumped fuel down my intake into the #8 cylinder and blew it up.

Yours is V8? I might be very interested in that depending on the price, I'm not in a rush. Keep me posted! Thanks.
Click to expand...
Id check that paperwork and make sure i was getting a decent warranty for $8900 plus install. For that kind of money id want a 100,000 mile warranty. And yea all 06's are V-8. Hopefully i will know something soon im ready to get all this insurance crap settled. For future reference if anyone ever gets they're LS hit by someone with state farm insurance, state farm will try to settle for way less than what your claim is worth. They split your claim into two claims if you get hurt. Never take the first offer and make sure you have proof of what your car is worth or they will try to lowball you. They have made me two very low offers. Ive turned them both down. For the property damage claim make sure you go to Insurance total loss auction sites like Copart and Autobidmaster and take screenshots of the Lincoln LSes state farm is the sellar of on those sites and send them that info. Since they are selling those LSes they provide a way higher actual cash value or estimated retail value than what they've offered to buy my LS for. I believe i gottem where i wantem with that info cause how can they say LSes they are selling as insurance loss claims are worth more than LSes they are buying to settle insurance claims. Maybe they will offer me what my LS is worth and i won't have to takem to court. I gotta call them sometime this coming week so I will let you know soon if i get to keep the car. The car still runs and drives great it just looks like crap with all that damage in the back. Other than that is in great mechanical condition. If i get to sell the motor i won't ask nowhere near $8900 for mine lol. Plus you'll be able to take it for a drive around the neighborhood so you can hear it run.
 
SultanGris said:
Trying to put another motor in my 2003, having trouble finding one. Got two from a junk yard but they were both garbage, they're trying to locate another but so far no luck. Lincoln dealer wants 8900 for a rebuilt one, are there any other options? Can anything else be swapped in easily or are they all a pain in the ass? I thought I read on here somewhere about a Jaguar supercharger swap in but I imagine that's a pretty involved process. Cars not worth much but I've already put 3 or 4k into it, it's not in good enough shape interior wise to justify an 8900 motor, looking for low mileage motors or other options, thanks.
Click to expand...
just picked up my engine off ebay today 1k out the door, 120k on it and good leak down test planning to rebuild it and maybe do the supercharger install.
 
SteveOwens said:
Before you place the engine inside the bay, let me know. I have found some time savings thing that add the enjoyment of the Lincoln LS.
Click to expand...
Cool, I won't be installing it I hope, but I'd still like to know, thanks
 
SteveOwens said:
Sure, i write up the list tonight
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Thanks, my mechanic is getting pretty good at it cause he's on the 2nd motor installed so far, they sent him two crap ones and they're paying for the next install, but I'd love to give him some tips to speed it up!
 
The long term fixes once installed is what ill write tonight ss the same approach to my 04 2nd engine. I had time to the fixes over a six months before installing.
 
When i got the 2nd engine, the pan was remove to clean minor deibris ftom the plastic pickup tube. If there is pan bent/damage the bottom pickup tube has a close clearance that might break off four downward facing fingers. The next area is exhaust manifolds, the metal seals leak above 3k rpm with exhaust smell at three digit speed and with burnt outer valve cover gaskets. The exhaust studs replaced with ss m8-1.25 x 2.0-2.25 lg.. Reason is steel anneals with stud breaking. Accompanied with ss nuts and washers. The seal found to isolate the heat tranfer back into the head face was graphite sheet called Remflex in Mineral Wa. 2000°F capacity with additives to allow crushing to make the seal. Buy a large sheet to cut with an Exacto knife. Very easy to template from the 3 layer sheet gaskets. Vht 1500°F spray silicon on head, gasket, & manifold. The manifolds were Hot Jet coated to minimize corrosion issue with minor porting on the output. Chased the M10 studs with a die. The steel metal inner/outer gaskets /covers with sandwiched mica sheets were coated with Kaowool to limit the 1100°F manifolds radiation and conduction. One observation when removing the manifolds found a indentation on the rear head face on both heads. Maybe the piping heating/cooling moves manifolds. A flexjoint pipe on one side may stop the pipe flexing during cycling.
The valve cover gaskets when replaced be coated with a thin skin of Permatex Ultra Blue on all surfaces. The head valve cover seal surface polished clean with fine sand paper to insure a good seal. When dipstick needs to be reseated, a extra surface area is needed where it inserts into the lower engine where a small oring originally is used. This tube o-ring leak with some use and to access requires ps pump/bracket to be removed & is still a chore to clean and reseat. When reseating place a one inch dia rubber disc/0.5" high with 1/4" center hole & new oring to seal the tube entry with sealing silicone. This method worked with about couple hundred thousand miles with no leakage. The center valley coolant tap that feeds the throttle body is a job requiring removing the intake manifold. I found a hydraulic hose worked on the valley coolant tap and clamped with a PEK clamp for a permanent clamp. The hose was clamped on ds rear head face and looped back to the front ds head face coupled to a regular epdm 1/4" hose the hydraulic steel braid hose was clamped down as stiff as it is to allow an easy staight hose into the throttle. The egr tube was covered in a silicone fiberglass wrap to insulate the exhaust stream and keep the manifold from heating up. The spark plugs are NGK iridiums & the coils are Denso oem units. The coil covers need extra sealing with silicone. Clean the white cover seal and apply high quality silicone on the seal about a 1/4" bead all around then clean/cover with valve cover coil area with Saran plastic film to prevent silicone adhesion to the valve cover. Place siilicone applied coil cover lightly in place and install 5mm screws snug not tight. Let silicone to cure. I found water leakage from the ps valence to allow water on the valve cover.. the front main seal can be fixed with the plastic seal case filled with silicone to strenthen the flimsy case. This was one of many solutions to the leak i found . I saw on YouTube Dave's Auto a sized ring of the front crankshaft id and the front cover seal id to align the case. Must remove the dowel pins to align the front cover during silicone curing.
When the motor is out get the fuel injectors cleaned. With a engine of 120k, blow-by could an issue with excess intake oil. To controll the oil mist i rerouted the engine vent tubes from the valve covers through a 2000-2002 LS hydraulic resevoir as a oil catch can. I used aluminum air line quick disconnect fittings on the hydraulic resevoir able to remove oil mist on ps bay and pour oil back into the engine. The input vent air in from behind the mass air unit to the oil fill tube. The ds valve cover vent hole can be converted from original push on type to npt type while resealed valve covers operation. The ps valve cover had a orifice of a 0.03" hole which was moved from the ps valve to the intake manifold vacuum tap from the converted catch can. There is a Amsoil by-pass filter installed. It filters to 2 micron. I had to get a oil distribution block made to run the high pressure oil to the by-pass off the oil filter. It drains back next to the drain plug. The pan drain back area was thickened 1/8 for the npt threads..1-12UN thread isn't common in consumer products but in industrial market common. Good luck.

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Oh nice, thanks very much. You've spent some time figuring out all that. Sounds like some good solutions!
 
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