My first race after chip install

The Rev

The Rev

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
1,013
Reaction score
1
Location
Providence
Ok so I've been having these front end squeaks/squeals/very annoying noises when turning the wheels. It sounds like its coming from the steering column somewhere, because I can feel it through the steering wheel and its even if I turn the wheel a half inch, but it only does it at low speeds(it didnt make a peep while it was jacked up with front wheels off the ground either, any ideas?), so I jack it up, pb blaster the connection between right above the pass. cat and decide to take it for a run.

Me any my mom went out on the highway cruising, going about 90 in the left lane when I see a large ford late model pickup come on me hard, flash highbeams, and continue to accelerate, and hes still comin on me at 100, 105, 110....so I get into the middle lane and give him a "wtf" look, and he revs it a few times (very very intimidating, that thing ROARS) and then just punches it. Now with my mom in the car I didn't want to immediately start racing, so he gets about 5 car lengths ahead of me and she says "are we a little intimidated?"

so we punch it, and he's still pulling hard...and then we pretty much blew by him at 130. I usually lose power at these speeds but she kept pulling! I wasn't watching the speedometer but my mom said she thinks it went over the 140 mark? Is that even possible? I'm still getting horrible mileage because of the cheapo gas (after this highway run we climbed up to 10.1 mpg :confused: ) I'm assuming with good gas I'll get even better performance.....

...score one for the chip!

Oh yeah, do those trucks just sound fast? I couldn't hear my exhaust (no mufflers) at those speeds, just his, even when he was in front.
 
and she says "are we a little intimidated?"
Click to expand...

LOL I about sprayed my drink on the screen when I read that. HeHe

Mine would have long before that said "Get you foot out of it".
 
Most trucks just sound mean. My 150 was not that fast but with a couple of revs I could get people in mustangs and camaro's to wipe that my car is the shizzle look right off their face and wait for me to pull off the line.

Fathers day my cousin was talking about how fast his stock gmc 2500 desiel is. Said he blows mustangs off the line all the time with it and smokes his tires up and down the street all day. I asked him if he wanted to line it up with the lincoln, he said he didn't feel like it.

Heres a link to my trucks exhaust, sound quality is not that great. It's everybit of 225 horse at the flywheel with a flow 40 series single in dual out with 3 Inch dumps. sounds mean but does 0-60 in about 9 seconds. plus its just a 16v. http://youtube.com/watch?v=_1c_FRO8-7k

Here's some inside outside clips http://youtube.com/watch?v=mViIFzYmENc

I know no one likes watching pickup truck clips, but it shows you loud does not mean fast.
 
the turbo diesels can run some good times.... stock 6.0L can pull well into the 13's with just a tune
 
LOL stay away from the desiels with the loud whistle. Guy at work has a 2500 runnin low 12's. Smokes all four tires off the line.
 
I got a buddy with a 6.0 (the one i mentioned ran mid to high 13's on just a tune) who beats his GF's slightly built Z28..... consistantly! He roasted all four and then we went over the tire marks with a reset trip meter...... he burned all four for .15 miles! Nitrous in a diesel is just unholy!
 
need to address the ball joint issue on that car, before making any more highspeed runs.

you really dont want to kill your mom..right?

squeaks, groans, creaks felt thru the steering are 999 times out of 1000 bad ball joints.
 
"Ok so I've been having these front end squeaks/squeals/very annoying noises when turning the wheels. It sounds like its coming from the steering column somewhere, because I can feel it through the steering wheel and its even if I turn the wheel a half inch, but it only does it at low speeds(it didnt make a peep while it was jacked up with front wheels off the ground either, any ideas?), so I jack it up, pb blaster the connection between right above the pass. "


Next time it up look at the rack boot where the steering shaft meets the rack. Lift up the boot and apply grease to the underside, preferably a silicons grease. That may take care of your squeak.
 
is that whats right above the passengers side cat? I soaked that in wd-40 and it helped for a little
 
The Rev said:
is that whats right above the passengers side cat? I soaked that in wd-40 and it helped for a little
Click to expand...

No, on the steering rack under the engine. Wish I had a pick. Mine made lots-o-noise and eventually resistance in the steering. Driver-side.

Not sure what you would have soaked above the passenger side cat...
I think what you soaked was the "rag" joint. Try not to get too much on there or that rubber will break down and the shaft could collapse.
 
when you are checking the front end you need to put a jack under the control arm and lower the car so it has weight on the susp.
 
unity said:
No, on the steering rack under the engine. Wish I had a pick. Mine made lots-o-noise and eventually resistance in the steering. Driver-side.

Not sure what you would have soaked above the passenger side cat...
I think what you soaked was the "rag" joint. Try not to get too much on there or that rubber will break down and the shaft could collapse.
Click to expand...

That doesn't sound good...but yeah I'm getting a little resistance but only when I'm pulling into my driveway (which is a left turn) I really have to wing it. The wheel is definitely not easy to turn. I'll try to get a video (once I find my camera) so you can hear the noise, its definitely drivers side though.
 
Well if its not that then there is a really good chance its the lower ball joint as XLRVIII said.
 
I somehow got linked to the .org site where they were talking about this same problem I'm having, and they showed a few wheels snapped off.

Looking on ebay, best suspension is junk from what I hear. How about the ac cars? They had a kit for 198. upper and lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods for about 210+ shipping, worth it? I haven't compared prices, but what would I be looking at for moog, or trw which I hear are better brands. I tried a search on moog and got linked to a company making aircraft parts.
 
MOOG and TRW are practically one and the same. I purchased plenty of MOOG parts that were stamped TRW. So shop TRW.

Do you have an Advance Auto? They will have the best prices. Next option is Rock Auto ( rockauto.com ). There is a discount coupon that takes of 5%, that usually makes up for shipping.
 
Goddard-MarkVIII said:
Yeah dude cool mom
Click to expand...

She thought her police interceptor cab was faster than the mark, not so much anymore haha. She grew up in franklin mass in the 60s and all they did was race.

Yeah unity I'm sure theres an advance around here, so I was checking their site and saw a ford code scanner for obd1 vehicles 81-95. Can I buy this? Its only 30 bucks and its item number 3145 on their site. I think I may go by there tomorrow just to pick up a little wrench set they have for 20 bucks.
 
The scanner should work but some of the cheap ones dont always read the right code, unless thats an ODB II think. I am not too familiar with ODB I.
 
I get a cel occasionally, I'm assuming its o2s but could be something else, for 30 bucks ill give it a try
 
I saw that the lcas come with ball joints, correct? I may just replace those along with whatever else is needing to be replaced down there. I'm looking to buy a torch for heating up these bolts. Thats my only problem I run into when doing things my self (starter, front rotors, almost waterpump, etc) is that this car sat for 2 years and pretty much rusted itself out. My mechanic uses a torch on most of the cars anyway. I need to get myself one, where should I look? An ebay search yielded almost nothing.
 
For a torch? Pick up one from the plumbing department at Lowes or Home Depot. $20 for a tan with trigger ignitor on top. Best $20 I ever spent.

And yes, the LCAs come with ball joints, much better that way and easier to install!
 
Make sure you check the upper ball joints too.
your not gonna like what you see when you take a look at the "ball joint boot".

more than likely they are busted{the boots) and the ball joints have been operating DRY for quite some time.

Upper ball joints have to be replaced by replacing the entire upper control arem.. whereas, the lower ball joint CAN be removed from the LCA and serviced seperately.

You might as well PLAN on buying "uppers and lowers".. and be done with it.
 
XLRVIII said:
Make sure you check the upper ball joints too.
your not gonna like what you see when you take a look at the "ball joint boot".

more than likely they are busted{the boots) and the ball joints have been operating DRY for quite some time.

Upper ball joints have to be replaced by replacing the entire upper control arem.. whereas, the lower ball joint CAN be removed from the LCA and serviced seperately.

You might as well PLAN on buying "uppers and lowers".. and be done with it.
Click to expand...

+1

Lowers are cheap enough that it's not worth the effort to try and swap just the ball joint.
 
Awesome Billy, glad your happy with our program.
I sent out the rear window decal too, anyday you will have it.
I have one left in white if anyone wants it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 1,088 (members: 0, guests: 1,088)
Back
Top