Dino'sLSdeuce
Active LVC Member
2002 Lincoln LS V8 (3.9L)
First, I've had this car for about 8 years (since 2009), purchased it from a local Ford Dealership for $10K cash with about 80K miles and used it daily to get to and from work (roundtrip 15 miles) and the occasional weekend family trips to L.A. from San Diego, so now it's 2017 and getting close to the 130K mileage. I had an upcoming California Smog-test but have occasionally been putting aside a DTC on my (Innova 3130 OBD2-scanner) P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1).
In short, my problem was (3) very, very expensive hard-plastic vacuum hoses/tubes. Nothing that some adhesive acquired from work and black electrical-tape solved. Also, an adequete amount of crazy-glue to the broken-plastic chipped-off 'intake tube' for one of the vacuum-tubes located atop the (driver's side) Valve-cover. One thing that I noticed was... Unless you don't individually examine each hose for minute cracks or actually perform smoke-test to locate the problem hoses, gaskets and/or leaks, an unfamiliar intermediate mechanic may disregard these minute cracks as the problem -which was my P0171 air problems were (3) three hard-plastic vacuum tubes. They were too ridiculously expensive to replace. For example (1) hose - Motorcraft KCV-114 (PCV Hose) averaged about $50 . . .
No way, not for these small air-leak cracks. So I acquired from my work (defense contractor) small 5oz tube of glue:
3M Scotch-Weld High-Performance 1300 Adhesive (Temp range: -30'Deg.F to +300'Deg.F) dabbed where applicable and let air-dry overnight. Then thoroughly wrapped black electrical-tape beyond the glued areas neat and snugly.
Re-install Note: Those vacuum hoses that come with 'Norma-quick-type hose fittings' disconnects will need a little spit as a lubricant to re-slide back onto the connecting inlet-tube. If you don't lube the o-ring and/or quick-connector and the tube itself, it may be extremely difficult or you may end up forcing the hose to crack/rupture at a different location. Remember a little lube never hurt, if it aint spit it aint love (lol).
I cleared the P0171 DTC, performed a drive cycle. A few weeks later, no DTC's and Star-smogged my vehicle, hurray.
"... I CAN NOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH, THANKS TO ALL @ LVC.com !!!!"
This site has (for me and in my personal opinion) has saved me hundreds (if not) thousands of dollars and many of the headaches in regards to the B.S. rhetoric and misinformation from the various maintenance shops visited all just to get your vehicle in their shop as they begin to bury you with their 'ASE certified' diagnostic-guesses and glee as they empty your wallet. @ LVC.com, not only does it connect you with others like you it provides solutions.
So to all @ LVC.com investors, moderators, members, and supporters... A BIG THANK YOU
.
First, I've had this car for about 8 years (since 2009), purchased it from a local Ford Dealership for $10K cash with about 80K miles and used it daily to get to and from work (roundtrip 15 miles) and the occasional weekend family trips to L.A. from San Diego, so now it's 2017 and getting close to the 130K mileage. I had an upcoming California Smog-test but have occasionally been putting aside a DTC on my (Innova 3130 OBD2-scanner) P0171 - System too Lean (Bank 1).
In short, my problem was (3) very, very expensive hard-plastic vacuum hoses/tubes. Nothing that some adhesive acquired from work and black electrical-tape solved. Also, an adequete amount of crazy-glue to the broken-plastic chipped-off 'intake tube' for one of the vacuum-tubes located atop the (driver's side) Valve-cover. One thing that I noticed was... Unless you don't individually examine each hose for minute cracks or actually perform smoke-test to locate the problem hoses, gaskets and/or leaks, an unfamiliar intermediate mechanic may disregard these minute cracks as the problem -which was my P0171 air problems were (3) three hard-plastic vacuum tubes. They were too ridiculously expensive to replace. For example (1) hose - Motorcraft KCV-114 (PCV Hose) averaged about $50 . . .
No way, not for these small air-leak cracks. So I acquired from my work (defense contractor) small 5oz tube of glue:
3M Scotch-Weld High-Performance 1300 Adhesive (Temp range: -30'Deg.F to +300'Deg.F) dabbed where applicable and let air-dry overnight. Then thoroughly wrapped black electrical-tape beyond the glued areas neat and snugly.
Re-install Note: Those vacuum hoses that come with 'Norma-quick-type hose fittings' disconnects will need a little spit as a lubricant to re-slide back onto the connecting inlet-tube. If you don't lube the o-ring and/or quick-connector and the tube itself, it may be extremely difficult or you may end up forcing the hose to crack/rupture at a different location. Remember a little lube never hurt, if it aint spit it aint love (lol).
I cleared the P0171 DTC, performed a drive cycle. A few weeks later, no DTC's and Star-smogged my vehicle, hurray.
"... I CAN NOT EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH, THANKS TO ALL @ LVC.com !!!!"
This site has (for me and in my personal opinion) has saved me hundreds (if not) thousands of dollars and many of the headaches in regards to the B.S. rhetoric and misinformation from the various maintenance shops visited all just to get your vehicle in their shop as they begin to bury you with their 'ASE certified' diagnostic-guesses and glee as they empty your wallet. @ LVC.com, not only does it connect you with others like you it provides solutions.
So to all @ LVC.com investors, moderators, members, and supporters... A BIG THANK YOU
