My $$Budget$$ Audio Mod using the Stock Speaker Pods

Dino'sLSdeuce

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2002 LINCOLN LS V8
Here's my audio/stereo mod, using the stock 6''x8'' speaker pods that are located in each door. :) For those with a (somewhat) $$ Limited Budget $$ but have an aftermarket amp. (For this mod I used a KICKER ZX200.2 Amplifier 100watts x 2-chnnls.

My reason for this mod, (first and foremost) was because I couldn't decide on which brand/model aftermarket components to buy. So I decided to see how the stock speakers sounded w/ the KICKER AMP. So I took them apart to see what I had to work with and went from there. (2-way) Components, crossover partitioned.

That's when I decided to relocated those tweeters into the A-pillar trim post. Here's some pics...For those of you who are interested; whilst reading this, but would like to see more ''detailed pics'' of how the Tweeters are mounted and/or how they look fitted/mounted from the back of the A-pillar :confused:. Let me know and I'll reply with more pics if anyone is interested... :).

Speaker Pod disassembly Note
LSPIC-000.png

From the front...
LSPIC-001-1.png

From the inside...
LSPIC-002-1.png

Outside Close-up...
LSPIC-003-1.png

Speaker Pod Notes...
LSPIC-004-1.png

A-pillar Upholstery Note...
LSPIC-005-1.png


. . . The rest of my system:
I'm running a 15'' RE AUDIO SXX (Dual 2-ohm) driven by a KICKER ZX750.1 AMP. *When I purchased the amp I ''assumed'' it was stable at 1-ohm (?) I WAS WRONG !!. My mistake!! So I have the Sub wired only @ 4-ohms vs 2-ohms; that is until I purchase another Amp (which I doubt). The 4 crossovers were all relocated to the back trunk sitting in a type-of component rack.

Ohh unrelated to audio... I had a !!Bee-itchz of a time a couple days ago replacing my Degas bottle; Damn, that un-reachable back pinch-clamp!! My hands just couldn't reach it...I ended up ''yanking!! that lower hose off, instead of leaving it on. Unrelated but, Longstory, Short...Overheating problem solved. That was my 2cents and I'm outta here... :D
 
so you moved the rear tweeter to the front?

hope not, that would suck for anybody that had to sit back there.
 
I dont know how the 2002 system sounds but the THX has just the right amount of midrange and highs, no need to mess with it at all. Simply add bass.
 
The only problem I ever had with the THX system is the amount of distortion in the highs... If you listen to an aftermarket component set, you'll understand. But for a factory system it sounds fantastic.

I have a few professional car audio guys that would die, and then roll over in their graves, if they saw this. lol But good work, non the less.
 
I dont know how the 2002 system sounds but the THX has just the right amount of midrange and highs, no need to mess with it at all. Simply add bass.

IMO Gen 1 Stock is no good compared to Gen 2.
 
Funny how the stock system is Alpine and the THX is pioneer.
 
i have the thx and maybe my back speakers are worn out but the back door speakers sound really bland compared to the front which has always sounded great.
 
Reply's to members....questions...

;) hite337/marcredd - Looks good but how does it sound? - Yeah it sounds pretty damn good. Marcredd, good comment/question, regarding the harshness of the tweeter location/freq. produced. Yes, at times with certain songs and certain frequencies, it does seem "harsh" almost like a "screaming piezo horn" but overall the advantages outweigh the OEM Location.

1LoudLS - so you moved the rear tweeter to the front? - Yeah, right now I dont have any "rear fill" but I may use something in the near future, But nobody sits back there.

Starfire - for the 6x8 door pods how deep are they? - The depth is 2-1/8" for the pod. But the overall depth (including the front face thickness) is 2-5/8'' thick.

Overall (in my opinion) any stock system with the upgrade of a aftermarket amp (100watts and below) will greatly enhance the OEM speaker pods in the Lincoln LS. I've so old skool ....one of my accomplishments... was back in 1993 TEXAS.

1st Place ...TEXAS HEATWAVE IV (1993).... talk about an old fart....
 
well, this is cool, and I like it. Also I am not busting your balls or anything just my opinions and concerns.

1) they are aiming at the glass: a lot of unnecessary re-verb from the hard surface, and they are aimed at each other.

2) I would have tried to clean up the install. no extra money, but not have the screws on the face. Unless you like that which is fine, my opinion is not to have them like such.

3) It's great to see more people doing stuff on their own that is out of the box thinking.

Questions

1) did you set them up near the pillars and listen to them, trying different angles until you found the best projection of sound, or pick a spot and put them there?

Anyways cool stuff man hopefully we will see more budget mods from you in the future.
 
Nice work. If I were to change something, I would get some SEM paint to match those grills (at least the screws) to match the cloth color.
 
alrighty, not enough depth for what i want to do. back to the original plan of fab my own mounts for the speakers.
 
Topic Update -Questions/Comments-

2002 lincolnLS
Comment #2) I would have tried to clean up the install,...but not have the screws on the face. Unless you like that which is fine...
Question #1) ...did you set them up near the pillars and listen to them, trying different angles until you found the best projection of sound, or pick a spot and put them there?

My Reply...
Comment #2) ...Those screws (I believe and in my opinion) are actually necessary because they connect the top plate and the Voice-Coil to the Magnet of the tweeters assembly. I would hate for those coils to somehow rub up against the magnets wall > create a short and "shortening" the travel motion of the tweets voice-coil.
Question #1) ...That's a good question. My answer is, Not really. Working with a almost "non-existent" budget; I just put the tweeters as close to ear level as possible because of the OEM wattage I had to work with and not being a high-fidelty aftermarket component. As far as trying different angles; Unless I attempted to fiberglass and angle a ring-mount that would've been ideal, but since were talking about OEM tweeters in wasn't worth the extra effort. Also, unlike aftermarket tweeters, those OEM tweets fastening screws need to be "flush-mounted" flat due to the tweeters assembly (see Comment#2).

pektel
Comment#1) ...I would get some SEM paint to match those grills (at least the screws) to match the cloth color.

My Reply... :I
After looking at them, your right. I need some paint on those things.:D

:cool: For those interested, I'll try and upload a (Y0utube) Video Link featuring how it looks and sounds (and my system so far). You may want to add or copy this thread for reference in the next week or so. I'm running KICKER AMP (750x1) to a 15" RE AUDIO SXX SUB and KICKER AMP (200x2) to just OEM stock speakers. Just to see and hear what they sound like.

I was "REALLY, REALLY SURPRISED" how those stock speakers sounded ...just by adding an amp (-100watts per channel) to them. Plus, after more then 6-months they haven't blown or distorts (as you would think) due to amplification. Those crossover module within' those OEM Pods "sure does the trick" to protect and process's those frequencies nicely for those components.

Gimme a couple of days or so...to upload and update this thread.
 

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