more questions about air ride
- Thread starter defflepp1
- Start date
mmtphoto
Well-Known LVC Member
I'm fortunate, mine is not a DD, and it is garaged-when it is on level surfaces, it never slams, but it can either front or back if it is outside, in the elements, extended period of time, especially if it is on any sort of incline. If I only had to buy bags to keep it air, that is no big deal, -
as long as it doesn't get into, lines, relays, dryers, compressors, modules...then I could afford to park it until I figured it out-but if it wa a DD, no question, I would try to get info on the best all-around spring kit and just do it.
DD makes all the difference in how to handle this issue, IMO.
as long as it doesn't get into, lines, relays, dryers, compressors, modules...then I could afford to park it until I figured it out-but if it wa a DD, no question, I would try to get info on the best all-around spring kit and just do it.
DD makes all the difference in how to handle this issue, IMO.
defflepp1
Active LVC Member
so what who would you guys recomend i go with if i went with a new air ride and what should i get
Kstills
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, that depends a whole lot on your budget.
94 MarkVIII, probably has a lot of original parts. Do you have the ability (financial and mechanical) to replace most of it?
OEM struts front - 369 each x2, plus tax and shipping.
OEM rear bags -~90 each x2, plus tax and shipping.
New or rebuilt compressor - 155x1
Spider valve (keeps moisture out of the system -~250x1
Relay - no idea, but good idea to swap out on that old a vehicle if you're gun decking the whole thing.
Solenoidsx4@20 each.
Arnott strutts are 155x2 for front, ~90x2 for the back.
Check your UCA and LCA before you do the job, are the ball joints in good shape? If not, add them to the cost.
If you need to do that, figure an alignment also.
Coils are ~400 for the entire vehicle.
Whichever way you go, contact Eddie at American Air Suspensions, he's not only a great mechanic, he's a great guy who'll help you with your buying decision, with all the parts (he's competitive across the board) and with help if you hit a snag. I cannot recommend his business enough.
ford nut
Local nut case
Kstills
Dedicated LVC Member
Word of advice, if you're going to do this yourself.
Go out today, buy some PB blaster and start spraying all the bolts that you'll be taking off. Do that every day while you're waiting for your parts to come in.
In fact, do that even if you're not doing the work yourself. Your mechanic will thank you.
Go out today, buy some PB blaster and start spraying all the bolts that you'll be taking off. Do that every day while you're waiting for your parts to come in.
In fact, do that even if you're not doing the work yourself. Your mechanic will thank you.
shiryu0
Dedicated LVC Member
thats cause the front sway bar bushings and links were shot, the air ride manages to dampen that out too........
Kstills
Dedicated LVC Member
You're saying that the sway bar linkages control the up and down motion on the front end of the car?
shiryu0
Dedicated LVC Member
You're saying that the sway bar linkages control the up and down motion on the front end of the car?
yep, put poly bushings and new links in the front........bouncing was GONE.
Kstills
Dedicated LVC Member
Odd.
I drove home yesterday and took a corner that I normally hit at 45mph, and it was the same feeling as with the air struts. The only time I notice the bounce is straight line, over dips. I would not have thought that had anything to do with the stabilizer bar linkage.
defflepp1
Active LVC Member
just a couple more questions for you, is there a way to determine witch of the air shocks are leaking? who would you guy recommend i go with to replace the shock? how hard is it replace it yourself with a decent amount of tools and know how? and something totally unrelated what does it mean if when i go to give it gas it stumbles and hesitate ? thanks for all the great info im sure this site will be a life saver
Kstills
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't have any idea how to test the struts, but one of the other guys here probably does. Better yet, call Eddie.
On Eddies site (American Air suspensions) there's a write up for doing the replacement. There probably is one here, also.
Simplified, you put both sides up in the air, pull the wheels, disconnect the UCA pinch bolt, pull the UCA out of the way, take off the lower strut bolt, take off the three nuts up in the engine compartment (top of strut), pull out strut, insert new one. The instructions (which you need to get and to follow) called for disconnecting the sway bar brace and the ABS sensor cable, but I found that I did not need to do either to get the struts in and out.
One strut might take an hour, less if your handy.
Start spraying those bolts and nuts with PB Blaster right now.
I did everything with only basic tools. You'll want a breaker bar for the lower bolts, failing that use the handle for the jack on the end of your ratchet.