Mechanic Recommendations in Southeast Michigan?

He's just gonna keep overheating his engine trying that test. I would do the radiator hose thing first.That'll make SURE you don't have air in it. don-ohio :)^)
 
He's just gonna keep overheating his engine trying that test. I would do the radiator hose thing first.That'll make SURE you don't have air in it. don-ohio :)^)

Okay. I'll let you take over this thread. I'm sure you know way better than I.
 
Doesn't matter. It is a test to see if the system can hold pressure. If it can't, bleeding is unlikely to ever work.

I just did both as suggested. The upper radiator hose is super hot. Doesn't feel very firm. I can squeeze freely on it (doesn't seem like very much coolant is in there). I did the bleeding procedure all over again after filling the top of the lower radiator hose to bleed the air out of the radiator. Once again coolant seems to be rising and not receding as the engine heats up. During #9, it appeared to have gone down just slightly, but as soon as I opened the degas cap to add more coolant as needed to maintain cold fill mark, it started rising towards the top.


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I just did both as suggested. The upper radiator hose is super hot. Doesn't feel very firm. I can squeeze freely on it (doesn't seem like very much coolant is in there)....

Okay, last comment on this thread, I promise. Your results mean that the system can't pressurize. It has nothing to do with coolant being in the hose or not. At 15/16 PSI, it would be very hard to squeeze that hose even if it only had air in it. You have a leak somewhere, and it is never going to bleed correctly or work correctly until you find and fix that leak.
 
Fair enough. Would a pressure test discover the leak you think? Would it be wise to replace the bottle again?


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pressure test are not conclusive...

there have been a couple of times where somebody had a leak and couldn't find it with a pressure test.
 
Are u anywhere near roseville ? I just replaced the degas and radiator on my 03 v6 after changing all the plastic parts and water pump. Im thinking try swapping the cap 2ith m8ne and i still got the old radiator that still looks pretty damn good. I only changed it to cover all my bases. Mines running at a cool 210 now.
 
Pressure test could blow up your Degas, Unless you can make sure to keep pressure below 16 psi,I wouldn't try it. You say you filled the radiator the way I said to, and then did another bleed? I thought I had posted on this result earlier but I hadn't.
I wouldn't doubt that even though it's a Ford thermostat,it could be bad(you can remove it and test it). Also,like I say,if water pump is bad, overheating will result.don-ohio :)^)

Fair enough. Would a pressure test discover the leak you think? Would it be wise to replace the bottle again?


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... What is your reason for wanting the DATC off (and the DCCV closed)?

No lesson on such other then I turned the car off with the Climate controls off. The lines do not have to or need to be drained.

Naturally it gets opened after I've gotten it level at the fill neck while holding RPM. Put the cap on and start to operate full heat. Keep RPM's up, thermostat should open soon, keep topping off at the degas and observe the bleed screw.

Just finished replacing the upper hose, new fluid and bled quickly. I know it's not fully as per procedure. Works good for me though.
 

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